Nice old german keyless chuck question

[yota]

I despise the drill and punch method of removing arbors.

Get a bolt that fits the threads and pop the arbor using jwmelvin's suggestion. At worst, cut the arbor about 1" from the chuck, drill and tap for a 3/8" x 16 bolt and pull it out that way using jwmelvin's method. I've removed quite a few using this method.

I still plan to try this, just have to go into town and find a bolt. I really don't want to go into brute force methods like hammering, pressing and heating if the bolt doesn't work. I would really feel awful if I ruined this beautiful tool.

 

[jmkasunich]

At worst, cut the arbor about 1" from the chuck, drill and tap for a 3/8" x 16 bolt and pull it out that way using jwmelvin's method. I've removed quite a few using this method.

The worst one I ever had was secured with red locktite. We wound up cutting it off, then chucked it in the lathe and bored out the center of the remaining arbor stub until there was just a very thin shell left, and finally peeled that out of the inside of the chuck taper. Quite a pain in the rear, but we got it out without putting a single scratch on the chuck.

 

[SLK001]

I still plan to try this, just have to go into town and find a bolt. I really don't want to go into brute force methods like hammering, pressing and heating if the bolt doesn't work. I would really feel awful if I ruined this beautiful tool.

Yeah, they are nice chucks. Having a drawbar doesn't indicate the taper. I have a few MT#3 arbors with the threaded hole for a drawbar. Since the taper is non standard, just sacrifice if to the arbor gods and get one that will fit your machine.

 

[SLK001]

The worst one I ever had was secured with red locktite.

That is a colossal waste of loctite. Anyway, the resident taper should be quite sufficient in holding the chuck. All the loctite does is increase runout.

 

[kd4gij]

Put 2 marks on the taper 1 inch apart and measure the dia at those marks to get Taper per inch. and then look at LMS charts

 

[pontiac428]

I bet that is a MT taper for use with a draw bar, such as in a lathe headstock arrangement. I use setups like that on my lathe. I have only one Albrecht, and it is by far and away my favorite chuck. I was able to change spindles on mine using Jacobs spindle wedges. Do you have enough of a relief to use wedges?

 

[yota]

Put 2 marks on the taper 1 inch apart and measure the dia at those marks to get Taper per inch. and then look at LMS charts

I come up with .5856 per ft or .0488 per in. matches nothing. I'm no machinist but I checked with a digital Mitutoyo micrometer and then again with a digital Mitutoyo caliper. got slightly different readings but close and took an average. checked over the full length and again over 1 in.

 

[yota]

I bet that is a MT taper for use with a draw bar, such as in a lathe headstock arrangement. I use setups like that on my lathe. I have only one Albrecht, and it is by far and away my favorite chuck. I was able to change spindles on mine using Jacobs spindle wedges. Do you have enough of a relief to use wedges?

I have MT2 on my lathe tailstock and on my 1946 Delta 17 in drill press as well as a couple of MT2 adaptors. when I put known MT2 tapers in those there is some friction and with a slight tap they stay put. when I put this chuck in any of them it feels close but it falls right out. even when I set it with a lead mallet.

 

[yota]

I bet that is a MT taper for use with a draw bar, such as in a lathe headstock arrangement. I use setups like that on my lathe. I have only one Albrecht, and it is by far and away my favorite chuck. I was able to change spindles on mine using Jacobs spindle wedges. Do you have enough of a relief to use wedges?

unless the MT2 with drawbar threads does not need to be tight.

 

[yota]

don't have any chuck wedges to try. does this look like a good candidate?