New restoration project! 12" Craftsman lathe.

[LX Kid]

When I was making the T-slot nut something went wrong inside my Grizzly G0619, 1hp mill. Had it 13 years and never a problem until now. Gonna have to remove head assembly, when I get a chance, and see what broke inside. But that will be in another thread in the mill forum.

 

[LX Kid]

Chuck back plate arrived this afternoon. Guess this would sort of count as a first cut doing the back plate! Tomorrow I'll do a spindle Timkin bearing adjustment and all necessary chuck runout alignments etc. The headstock kept stalling out and discovered the belts were settling in and stretching so I did a belt adjustment.

 

[LX Kid]

The spindle run out was .002". The chuck run out was about .004". After an hour of trying to get better adjustment I had to leave it alone till tonight. It's 98 degrees in my shop! Tried a cut and it really sucked. Lot of maybe this or maybe that! I'll try a new carbide insert and see how that goes at faster/slower speeds.

3/8" or 1/2" Quick Link belts? I'm using 3/8" on headstock and 1/2" on motor. I see Tublacain using 1/2" which seems to sit a little high to me on his machine.

 

[LX Kid]

@ 8am. Didn't do much better with the run outs. I tried to do a little test cutting and the results were really bad. Think most of my problems are wrong tooling and and dull tool bits. I've never been good at sharpening my tooling. Gonna buy a green wheel and "edjumacate myself more gooder sharpening techniques." LL My new QCTP tool holders have still not arrived. Now I'm just making excuses for my lack of skill.

My test cuts were "raspy" looking and I noticed if I just left the cutter in one spot it would continue to keep cutting very slightly inward without moving the compound slide handle. I'lI recheck all the gib screws and maybe add a "thumb" screw on the center to take up any detectable cross slide play. (This should not be necessary). I have about .010" cross slide nut play.

UPDATE: @8:45AM: I just noticed I had forgot to adjust the rear saddle gibs! They had not been adjusted at all when I assembled the lathe.

"Which is better a 60 grit or 80 grit green wheel?"

 

[bill70j]

@ 8am. Didn't do much better with the run outs. I tried to do a little test cutting and the results were really bad. Think most of my problems are wrong tooling and and dull tool bits. I've never been good at sharpening my tooling. Gonna buy a green wheel and "edjumacate myself more gooder sharpening techniques." LL My new QCTP tool holders have still not arrived. Now I'm just making excuses for my lack of skill.

My test cuts were "raspy" looking and I noticed if I just left the cutter in one spot it would continue to keep cutting very slightly inward without moving the compound slide handle. I'lI recheck all the gib screws and maybe add a "thumb" screw on the center to take up any detectable cross slide play. (This should not be necessary). I have about .010" cross slide nut play.

UPDATE: @8:45AM: I just noticed I had forgot to adjust the rear saddle gibs! They had not been adjusted at all when I assembled the lathe.

FWIW, I have replaced the middle gib screws on the compound and on the cross-slide with locking socket head cap screws. I keep the compound locked tight unless cutting a taper or threading, and lock the cross-slide on every longitudinal pass. When parting, I lock down everything, except the cross-slide, which I tighten, leaving it only loose enough to crank the handle.

Also, are you using brazed-on carbide tool bits?

 

[LX Kid]

No brazed carbide tips. I have a hodge pod of mostly used bits that were either given to me or bought on as a lot. I know this is not ideal and realize I have to do things different. Will get better no matter how much it's gonna cost me! Ha Ha

Yea! My new tool holders finally arrived. My replacement lead screw mount bearing also arrived. It is a 3d printed item and looks to be very "stout" and am concerned it may not snap off if there is a lathe crash. Anyway it is a backup and was cheap. I'd rather trust the one I epoxy back together if the one currently on the lathe fails. Can't believe that the temperature in my shop is 103 degrees and the ceiling fan and roof exhaust fan is running! I have a 5000 btu window unit but only use it at night cause it can't keep up with the heat. (No insulation)

 

[LX Kid]

FWIW, I have replaced the middle gib screws on the compound and on the cross-slide with locking socket head cap screws. I keep the compound locked tight unless cutting a taper or threading, and lock the cross-slide on every longitudinal pass. When parting, I lock down everything, except the cross-slide, which I tighten, leaving it only loose enough to crank the handle.

Also, are you using brazed-on carbide tool bits?

No brazed tool bits. I did make a gib lockdown for the cross slide and will make one for the compound when I can find another knob.
Update @ 7:40pm: ( Ooops I thought you were talking about brazed tool bits that I had done myself. I do have various Chinese ones. )

 

[LX Kid]

Things are getting better and better. I had a 1.5" sheave on the motor and changed it to a 4" sheave. Cuts are improving as my rigidity got better with gib adjustments and my new tool holders for my new AXA QCTP. Seems like I need to scuff up the top of the compound and bottom of the QCTP. Takes lot of nut pressure to keep QCTP from moving.

My chuck speeds with 1-5/8 and 4" sheaves. Maybe a 3" sheave would be better suited for my use.

 

[bill70j]

Things are getting better and better. I had a 1.5" sheave on the motor and changed it to a 3.5" sheave. Cuts are improving as my rigidity got better with gib adjustments and my new tool holders for my new AXA QCTP. Seems like I need to scuff up the top of the compound and bottom of the QCTP. Takes lot of nut pressure to keep QCTP from moving.

Nice.

To help secure the tool post better, you might consider turning your securing plate into more of a wide t-nut by brazing a piece of steel to it that fits snugly inside the compound slot.

I like your locking device.

My question about the brazed bits had to do with your comment about a green wheel. Seems those bits need grinding, sharpening, and honing right out of the box, especially the imports. For grinding and shaping I'm not sure there would be much difference between 60 and 80 grit wheels. If the grind's already there it might be wise to go with a finer green wheel, which will save time with follow-up on the diamond wheel.

 

[LX Kid]

Nice.

To help secure the tool post better, you might consider turning your securing plate into more of a wide t-nut by brazing a piece of steel to it th at fits snugly inside the compound slot.

My securing plate is already a very close fit. The twisting is between the top of the mount and the bottom of the QCTP. Even if I wanted to I can't make a T-slot nut as my mill broke until I find time to take it apart and find out what went wrong. Makes a metalic noise and jumps. (See post #121) 13 years and never a problem.
My bench grinder has 60 and 80 grit wheels so I gave it a try at sharpening a tool bit. Wow! What a difference. It's really cutting nicely. Not perfect but really good in my opinion. Nothing a finger nail can snag!