New Member From Langley Bc Ready To Start Lathe & Mill Shopping

[Kiwi Canuck]

Welcome to machine buying! It is something we all go through.... for only $500 I can buy this.... and only another $500....

And then the online forum weighs in with "for only another $1000"....

wrt PM1127 vs PM1236 or PM1340GT:

PM1236 (or larger) has some very huge advantages:
1. Full Quick Change Gear Box (QCGB). The smaller machines are crippled.
2. Cam Lock Chuck. Huge deal. Swap out chucks in 30 seconds.

WRT 110V vs 220V. You could always put a 110V motor on a 1236 lathe. The downside is that a 2 HP motor fuel load current draw is about 19A, which probably exceeds (or is close to exceeding) the 110V circuit that you have installed. And you won't find a 115V inverter that would drive a three phase motor larger than 1 HP.

Surface conduit isn't a bad look. And really, it isn't that hard to run wiring in the walls either. I have put in 5 220V outlets in my fully-finished garage. Definitely no need to trench of either of those options are available.

Thanks for the additional info, all good points which I will follow.

Standard outlets are wired with 14 AWG which is 15 amps max load, I need a 20 Amp 120 outlet on the same wall so will run it at the same time as the 220V.

I will run (1) 120V 20 Amp circuit using 12 AWG, (2) 220V 30 Amp circuits using 10AWG.

Hopefully I can fit it all in a 3/4" conduit with (2) 90's, if not it'll need to be 1".

I will be able to get up the wall into ceiling space and then get only about 10' across as we have a finished space above garage and no access, then will dropout below ceiling and then surface the rest of the way.

Cheers,

 

[petertha]

You're welcome. Some other links
This link page shows the taper attachment. Unfortunately what they (continue to) gloss over is the different cross slide / lead screw assembly that is also required. So as mentioned, if that's on the wish list, I believe you have to spec that up front. Otherwise tapers are confined to the limits of your compound or some tailstock offset method.
http://www.kingcanada.com/Products.htm?CD=116&ID=12037

You are close to KBC Delta. I haven't been to their store myself. I feel like I know them because brown parcels with their logo are on my porch quite often Looks like they are a King distributer. At least if they have some models of interest on the floor maybe you can get up close & personal with the machine. That stand looks much better than my era & I guess that must be a brake mechanism integrated into the base?
http://www.kbctools.ca/products/MACHINERY/LATHES/MANUAL LATHES/9056.aspx

 

[Kiwi Canuck]

I started with a Grizz 9x20 about 11 years ago. It did most of what I desired--Still, I wanted bigger. I acquired a Grizz mill--a bit smaller than the 932--Installed a VFD on it & had great fun using it. Retired & moved from Alaska to the USA. Sold the lathe & mill cuz it was too expensive to ship.

Did all the research things you have done, & settled on the PM12x36 (no DRO) + the PM932PDF with the installed DRO. I am satisfied with both machines. I had a few issues with surface finish on the lathe, & finally settled on a VFD & motor swap. Much improved surface finish--Changing the RPM by only a small amount can considerably change the finish. I have had no issues with the mill. During the surface finish time, Matt was planning a weekend in Ocean City MD. He offered to stop by my home in Delaware to check out the machine--about 45 minutes out of his way. I turned down the offer, but I firmly believe that that offer speaks volumes about him & his devotion to his machines & customers.

Back to the lathe. I am much more satisfied with it now, and feel that the VFD conversion was worth the money (about $675 USD).

As to the camlock vs direct mount for the chuck-I have a 3 jaw, a 4 jaw, & an ER-32 collet chuck. It is quicker to change, and generally less of a PITA than a direct mount with bolts, nuts, ropes, & bungee cords; however, if you are not prone to changing 2 or 3 times per project, well, maybe it isn't such a big deal for you. I LIKE THE CAMLOCK!!!

If you have a nicely finished floor in the proposed shop location, the 12x36 & the 932 can easily be moved by one person & an engine hoist. I am nearly 70, & uncrated, assembled, & placed both machines 100% by my self. I will not speculate on doing that with a 13x40 or the 935 because I have never seen them.

From all the posts here on the forum, the 13x40 & the 935 are superior machines. They come with a superior price tag, also. Does that mean that the others are inadequate or junk?? ABSOLUTELY NOT!!! Both of my machines needed a bit of tweaking to get them up to my desired degree of accuracy and usability. However, I am a home shop tinkerer and do not use them for income purposes. But, then think of all the shops that are running very old & possibly severely worn machines. The quality of work produced more than likely is a result of the operators skill and dedication than to the country of origin or color of the paint on the machines.

I would recommend that you base your decision on all of the factors and pointers that have been posted here and then enjoy your new tools and have fun using them.

Jerry in Delaware

Jerry thanks for your response, I think I have read some of your posts on here so thanks for those as well.

The floor in both the garage and workshop are both very smoothly finished (with radiant heat installed so no drilling unless I'm willing to pay for scanning) so hopefully I can get them positioned with one other helper.

Pretty sure the PM 935 will be what I order, just going to crunch the numbers and see if I go 1340GT or 1236.

By the way I love the PM Blue and White

David

 

[brino]

Cam Lock Chuck. Huge deal. Swap out chucks in 30 seconds.

vs. about 25 seconds for a screw-on chuck? I don't get it. I don't mean to intrude on the conversation, but what's the perceived advantage of a cam-lock chuck? Repeatability maybe? Teach me. Please and thanks!

I usually don't do this much research when buying equipment or toys but I'm enjoying the journey and info I'm gathering as I'll need to know most of this anyway.

Actually I consider it invaluable research. You may not even realize it until _after_ you have bought, setup and are using your new machine exactly the nuanced usefulness of some features. A "deep think" about them upfront might also lead you there.

-brino

 

[dieselshadow]

I'm new to this also, but a bolt-on or screw-on chuck vs a cam lock is a no-brainer to me. A cam lock is way quicker and easier. Bolts are easy, but there's absolutely no way you're changing out a bolt-on chuck in less than a minute. A cam lock? Easy money. Repeatability? Without question. A bolt-on or screw-on chuck? Perhaps, but not in that timeline.

I'm no expert by any means. Just my $.000000002.

 

[Muskt]

When I owned the 9x20, it had the 39x4 threaded spindle. As with many of the "less expensive" machines, the fit of the registration flange was not as precise as it could have been. When I acquired a "real" 4 jaw and created my own adapter plate, I made it fit correctly. Yes, it required about the same time to either install or remove as a cam-lock. One serious drawback to the screw on spindle is that you cannot run the machine backwards, as some operators do.

I think that the original context of this discussion revolves around the bolt-on arrangement of the smaller machines used by members of this forum (the PM machines).

I believe that it was the 11x27 that has a non-standard mount, as well as very limited availability for other chucks. This statement is only a guess on my part. However, after using the threaded spindle for about 10 years, and the D-1 for 2, I can state that I definitely prefer the cam-lock.

Hope this helps a bit.
Jerry in Delaware

 

[tmarks11]

vs. about 25 seconds for a screw-on chuck? I don't get it. I don't mean to intrude on the conversation, but what's the perceived advantage of a cam-lock chuck?

A screw-on chuck is probably faster than a camlock, but....

When I hit the foot brake (or have a VFD with regenerative breaking), the screw-on chuck unscrews (yes, I know, generally don't find a foot brake on a machine with a screw-on chuck).

Also, some times I run the spindle in reverse because the compound works better for the angle of the cut. Not possible with a screw-on chuck.

My statement was aimed more at the bolt on chucks, which takes longer than a cam lock. Additionally, cam-lock chucks are a standard size, so you can buy any brand. Most bolt-on chucks are not.

 

[tmarks11]

I will run (1) 120V 20 Amp circuit using 12 AWG, (2) 220V 30 Amp circuits using 10AWG.

Hopefully I can fit it all in a 3/4" conduit with (2) 90's, if not it'll need to be 1".

No need to wonder... yes, it will fit in 3/4" conduit.I came up with 40% fill (this is assuming you are using THHN). Note that 6 current carrying conductors require you derate to 80%, but since that is based on the 90C limits, you are still good with your planned wire size. YMMV, since Canada has sometimes stricter codes.

http://www.electrician2.com/calculators/rf_calculator.html

You could also make your life easier, and surface mount a small breaker panel near where your tools are, and just run 8AWG to that panel. Easy to turn power on to the machines. Wish I thought of that before I ran 10AWG for each circuit 75' across my garage in the attic.

 

[bobl]

Take a look at sharp industries I have a 13-40 made in Taiwan had for about 15 years no problems good all round machine
Don't forget to also look at used I also restored a h10 southbend and a Rockwell mill and modified to a turret mill
We are neighbors I'm in Mission


Sent from my iPod touch using Tapatalk

 

[brino]

I'm new to this also, but a bolt-on or screw-on chuck vs a cam lock is a no-brainer to me. A cam lock is way quicker and easier. Bolts are easy, but there's absolutely no way you're changing out a bolt-on chuck in less than a minute.

My statement was aimed more at the bolt on chucks, which takes longer than a cam lock.

Thanks Guys!
I missed the fact that the comparison was cam-lock vs. bolt-on (ie. not screw-on).
I am obviously NOT researching the discussed models as deeply as you are.
I appreciate the responses.

-brino