New G0602 Setup

[Paul Fithian]

Thanks!

 

[David2011]

One thing that I’m trying to do when I make changes is to follow the measurement scheme of the machine. I made a carriage stop for my G9972Z and used Imperial fasteners. It’s aggravated me every time I use it because everything else on that lathe is metric so for two little screws I have to keep Imperial hex wrenches handy. I prefer to keep sets in holders rather than loose individual wrenches. Right now I’m setting up an ER40 collet chuck to be adjustable. The lathe it’s going on is metric so I’m staying with metric setscrews on the chuck. It prevents needing two sets of hex wrenches at the machine and reduces clutter a little. My mill is an American Index 645 so any tools that I make for it will have Imperial fasteners.

 

[verbotenwhisky]

One thing that I’m trying to do when I make changes is to follow the measurement scheme of the machine. I made a carriage stop for my G9972Z and used Imperial fasteners. It’s aggravated me every time I use it because everything else on that lathe is metric so for two little screws I have to keep Imperial hex wrenches handy. I prefer to keep sets in holders rather than loose individual wrenches. Right now I’m setting up an ER40 collet chuck to be adjustable. The lathe it’s going on is metric so I’m staying with metric setscrews on the chuck. It prevents needing two sets of hex wrenches at the machine and reduces clutter a little. My mill is an American Index 645 so any tools that I make for it will have Imperial fasteners.

I do the same, My memory doesn't register multi units well.

 

[Paul Fithian]

One of the things I noticed is that the spindle pulley is not aligned with the other 2. Here's how they look when running:




Grizzly sent me a pair of spacers, first fix I'll attempt is to put another spacer (13) in this asssebly to see if it lines up.



Any other suggestions?

 

[Harry Knutz]

Continuing work on further cleaning and setting up the lathe for use. Drilled and tapped the tool rest side plate to accept the AXA M14 x 1.5 threaded post:

View attachment 487864View attachment 487865

Started to have a look at alignment, here's what I found with an MT3 test bar in the spindle with an MT3-MT4 adapter:

Near side runout is ~ 0.0005" each direction
View attachment 487866

Far side (~ 9 1/2" away from spindle) runout is ~ 0.0025" each direction:
View attachment 487867

Any suggestions for improvement here? Perhaps shim the tailstock end foot on the operator slide a few thousandths to get these to match?

Or a different method to tune alignment?

There is a small amount of built in runout from the factory that has been adjusted in to compensate for tool pressure and workpiece deflection. When inserting that style of test bar, Take a rubber mallet and rap it on the end to seat the test bar well into the spindle taper. I bought a #5MT Test bar and found it to be ground very accurately.

 

[Paul Fithian]

The Grizzly spec for spindle taper runout is .02mm at the spindle nose and .03mm at 100 mm from the spindle nose. This is equal to .0008" and .0012" @ 4". The runout for my G0602 is .012mm and .02mm.

In addition to potential problems with the test bar, there can be issues with the M4/M3 adapter.

Per above, lathe is in spec as I measured with this test bar:

 

[RJSakowski]

Per above, lathe is in spec as I measured with this test bar:
View attachment 491655

It appears that your measurements are consistent with the Grizzly spec. .0025"x 4/9.5 = .001".

 

[Paul Fithian]

Had another look at the pulley alingment, found a better solution.
It appears the machine was built with an extra spacer under P0602031 GEAR SHAFT that was causing the “B” pulley to be shifted outward, causing belt edge degradation.



Removing this spacer enabled the “B” pulley to align perfectly with the “C” pulley.


Factory assembled alignment is perfect between “A” and “C” pulleys

 

[Paul Fithian]

Finally had a chance to set up the cross slide DRO scale using a slim Sino KA-500 170mm scale. Check this post on how to convert wiring on the Sino scale to match input pins on the ToAuto display: https://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/low-cost-slim-glass-scale.111780/page-9#post-1130156

I used the follow rest mounting holes to attach a 3/8" aluminum plate for mounting the read head. Felt this was a better option than covering up the gib screws or carriage lock on the right side of the cross slide.

 

[Red96]

Curious why you chose the chuck side to mount the scale?