New G0602 Setup

[Paul Fithian]

Faced off both sides of the faceplate




Almost no runout now on the outside

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[Paul Fithian]

Had some fun making chips today with my 91 year old FIL.

Came up with a $0 tool-less quick lock for the tailstock using leftovers from the 4-way toolpost that won’t get used. Locks at 90 degrees

 

[dabear3428]

Very nice Paul

 

[Paul Fithian]

Thanks! This weekend was the first time I ever used a metal lathe.

Do these steel chips look OK? This was at 720 RPM with a carbide TCMT insert

Most of the cuts were at 0.015” depth. If I tried 0.020”, it would chatter

 

[David2011]

Nice conversion! I use my tailstock a lot; a fast locking system helps.

Your chips show no color to a mild blue so you're close. Stringy chips can become involved in the workpiece and damage the surface finish so I try to alter the speed, depth of cut and feed rate to try to get the chips to break before they get too long. With some metals that's really a challenge. Aluminum and stainless steel are very hard to get to break off the chips. I have a G9972Z which is essentially a longer bed G0602. I cut at .020"-.030" DOC all the time so you may have some rigidity issues.

It may be worthwhile to adjust the cross slide and compound gibs. I prefer the cross slide to be adjusted to have a little bit of a draggy feeling as I crank it in and out. Not enough to make it hard to turn the handwheel but enough that there is slight resistance. Since the compound is rarely moved much at a time, I like its gib to be snug enough to require moderate effort to turn the handwheel. If the gibs are loose the cutting tool can move around and that will cause chatter. If you can feel your stand vibrating, that can exacerbate chatter as well, setting up resonant vibrations. Another thing I did to help with rigidity is make a Clough42 compound clamp. It's not a miracle cure-all but it does help.

The brand and coating of the TCMT insert can wildly affect chatter, surface finish quality and how chips break, too. Since some of your strings are blue that indicates that the speed is about right.

 

[dabear3428]

Nice conversion! I use my tailstock a lot; a fast locking system helps.

Your chips show no color to a mild blue so you're close. Stringy chips can become involved in the workpiece and damage the surface finish so I try to alter the speed, depth of cut and feed rate to try to get the chips to break before they get too long. With some metals that's really a challenge. Aluminum and stainless steel are very hard to get to break off the chips. I have a G9972Z which is essentially a longer bed G0602. I cut at .020"-.030" DOC all the time so you may have some rigidity issues.

It may be worthwhile to adjust the cross slide and compound gibs. I prefer the cross slide to be adjusted to have a little bit of a draggy feeling as I crank it in and out. Not enough to make it hard to turn the handwheel but enough that there is slight resistance. Since the compound is rarely moved much at a time, I like its gib to be snug enough to require moderate effort to turn the handwheel. If the gibs are loose the cutting tool can move around and that will cause chatter. If you can feel your stand vibrating, that can exacerbate chatter as well, setting up resonant vibrations. Another thing I did to help with rigidity is make a Clough42 compound clamp. It's not a miracle cure-all but it does help.

The brand and coating of the TCMT insert can wildly affect chatter, surface finish quality and how chips break, too. Since some of your strings are blue that indicates that the speed is about right.

i'm redesigning my compound and looked at his but am concerned that instead of pulling the base of the compound slide down onto a solid surface it clamps the round column that the compound base is attached to, i just think that is more places to flex where when the base of the compound slide is pulled down you have a larger footprint so longer moments to increase rigidity.

Any thoughts on this?

 

[dabear3428]

Thanks! This weekend was the first time I ever used a metal lathe.

Do these steel chips look OK? This was at 720 RPM with a carbide TCMT insert

Most of the cuts were at 0.015” depth. If I tried 0.020”, it would chatter
View attachment 488336

good, ideal would be small c or 9 shaped chips and consistent colors, much better than my first attempts (and sometimes current attempts TBO).

 

[RJSakowski]

The 602 OEM compound clamp has rigidity issues. One of the first mods that I made was an improved compound clamp. The design was copied and was available as a kit on from one Peter Bellfonti. Details are here:

Improved G0602 Compound Clamp

Several years ago, I designed a beefed up compound clamp for the Grizzly 9 x 19 lathe, based upon several designs I had seen on various websites. When I got my G0602, the first improvement that I made was to replace its compound clamp. I made the clamp from a piece of 5/8" steel plate the...

www.hobby-machinist.com

G0602 Compound Protractor Calibration

My first upgrade after I got my Grizzly G0602 lathe was to beef up the compound clamping system. I designed a clamp modeled after several designs posted on various forums. In the process, I also decided to beef up the protractor ring mounting. To that end, I added three additional screws for...

www.hobby-machinist.com

 

[Paul Fithian]

Thanks David! I did install a Belfanti 6 bolt compound clamp on this lathe.


Maybe I need to snug up the gib screws a bit?

Here’s how my first facing cut looked:

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[David2011]

Thanks David! I did install a Belfanti 6 bolt compound clamp on this lathe. Maybe I need to snug up the gib screws a bit?

Ah- I see that now; overlooked it as I wasn't expecting to see the clamp upgrade. I would definitely take a look at the gibs, especially if the cross slide and compound move easily and as smooth as glass.