New atlas lathe new hobbyist

[markba633csi]

Just a coat of light oil until you are ready - then degrease with alcohol, naphtha or mineral spirits, dry and paint

 

[cooper1203]

Thanks all i was panicking this morning as i wasnt going to repaint the lathe so hadnt got any kit for that and as i had put more stuff in the machine to do its thing while i rinsed off the first part i knew it would be the same and more work.

Im thinking of using a synthetic enamel paint has anyone got any other suggestions?

 

[markba633csi]

I have used conventional Rust-O-leum brush enamel in the past with excellent results on cast iron
if applied in warm weather and allowed to dry for a week - very tough, hard finish and low cost

 

[cooper1203]

if anyone is interested i got the spindle out of the headstock today on the timkin bearing nearest the chuck end there is 14/4/41 scratched on the back and on the other end bearing it has 5/5/41 scratched on it

does this still make mine a 10f or is it earlier

 

[Aaron_W]

if anyone is interested i got the spindle out of the headstock today on the timkin bearing nearest the chuck end there is 14/4/41 scratched on the back and on the other end bearing it has 5/5/41 scratched on it

does this still make mine a 10f or is it earlier

I have a 1940 Atlas catalog, it talks about the new 10F model.

 

[cooper1203]

couple more questions
bodge and bugger it has been at the rack that the saddle moves on to for some reason they have moved the holes 3/8" so the whole rack is that much closer to the headstock. Is there any reason for this??

second question I have been cleaning the bed today and found 2 different marks on the side where the leadscrew bearing bolts on how long should the lead screw be on a 42" lathe?

 

[Jake M]

couple more questions
bodge and bugger it has been at the rack that the saddle moves on to for some reason they have moved the holes 3/8" so the whole rack is that much closer to the headstock. Is there any reason for this??

Maybe there is more than one application for the part so there are extra holes? Maybe somebody chipped a tooth and "indexed" it forward to get rid of that? Maybe the original parts have dried up and so that was from a different lathe....? No idea. Does it fit and work well?

second question I have been cleaning the bed today and found 2 different marks on the side where the leadscrew bearing bolts on how long should the lead screw be on a 42" lathe?

They usually go all the way to the end. How "short" is that one? They typically go far enough back that you would never (or mechanically could not) use the "whole" lead screw. Is it stopping the carriage travel before it reaches the farthest "useful" position? How much appears to be missing?

I would evaluate the function carefully and see if either of these are limiting any actual use. That'll tell you if it's really a bodge, or if it's a suitable functional repair. It's a fine line between the two sometimes...

 

[cooper1203]

the leadscrew i have is 35" long... the bed is 42". the issue is there is a cast boss the bearing at the tailstock end is supposed to bolt to. the current position has no boss so it is being pulled out of allignment.

the rack has to be pushed and pulled on to get the screws to line up with the holes in the bed.

as the transfer case in the apron has a broken lug it is obviously all under a lot of strain