New atlas lathe new hobbyist

i did think about that. However i tend to agree with the kit i am going to have (a function of space and cost) ie a lathe and mill etc i doubt i would be able to do much about fractions of a thou. Also all the plans i have seen on the internet or in books for hot air engines if tolerances are given its +/- 2 thou or more
Well, it is said one should have the resolution of one's ability to measure at one order of magnitude more fine than the level one is working at, so for example when working at 0.001" (or small multiples of that) one would measure at 0.0001".

However, for most hobbyist use (especially for wet behind the ears greenhorns like thee and me) half a thou (or 0.01 mm near enough) is generally fine.

And to be fair, If the graduations on a 0.001" indicator or dial calipers are wide enough apart, you can get a pretty close read to half a thou. :)
 
p.s. Possibly controversial opinion but, right now, you (and this applies to me, too) don't need a dial test indicator, dial indicator or micrometer that reads at a resolution greater than 0.01 mm or 0.0005". ;)

That's not controversial with me at all, as it's all the accuracy that's required, but I do have a "slight" counterpoint. Maybe not even a counterpoint, perhaps just a footnote....

When looking for a standard micrometer, I'd recommend one that reads to tenths. Why, when you'll probably never need it? Because the cost of a tenths micrometer versus 0.001 is NOT much different , if at all. And specific to this type of micrometer, because the tenths reading is "separate" from the thousandths reading, it can (and should) be ignored for 99.9 percent of all functional purposes. And it is self supporting, it does not rely on a separate holder to keep it in place, so it won't drive you mad. And it's the highest resolution that you'll get meaningful results from outside of a highly controlled environment. The benefit in having it is because A, that's a zero to low cost way to add that precision to the collection, and B, having that unnecessary precision available to "play with" is a very good opportunity to learn good habits and practices that will apply to just about every measurement you can take. And just getting comfortable with a vernier scale, if one isn't already. I still say it's not needed, just that having it there for "playing with" is a good opportunity for skill building, and just how much the world is made out of rubber, even at the one thousandth level. And I'm speaking in inches, but I'd say the same about a 0.002mm micrometer. You can do the math and see that 0.002mm is not exactly 0.0001 inches, but let me assure you that in a home shop, you need not do that math, because they are the same...

Link for visual reference only. Literally the first hit in the search. I'm not recommending for or against this one, just that this style of micrometer is the type that I think is a great way to "play with" unreasonable accuracy when you playing with your tools, and to ignore that excessive accuracy when you are actually doing something useful.

 
That's not controversial with me at all, as it's all the accuracy that's required, but I do have a "slight" counterpoint. Maybe not even a counterpoint, perhaps just a footnote....

When looking for a standard micrometer, I'd recommend one that reads to tenths. Why, when you'll probably never need it? Because the cost of a tenths micrometer versus 0.001 is NOT much different , if at all. And specific to this type of micrometer, because the tenths reading is "separate" from the thousandths reading, it can (and should) be ignored for 99.9 percent of all functional purposes. And it is self supporting, it does not rely on a separate holder to keep it in place, so it won't drive you mad. And it's the highest resolution that you'll get meaningful results from outside of a highly controlled environment. The benefit in having it is because A, that's a zero to low cost way to add that precision to the collection, and B, having that unnecessary precision available to "play with" is a very good opportunity to learn good habits and practices that will apply to just about every measurement you can take. And just getting comfortable with a vernier scale, if one isn't already. I still say it's not needed, just that having it there for "playing with" is a good opportunity for skill building, and just how much the world is made out of rubber, even at the one thousandth level. And I'm speaking in inches, but I'd say the same about a 0.002mm micrometer. You can do the math and see that 0.002mm is not exactly 0.0001 inches, but let me assure you that in a home shop, you need not do that math, because they are the same...

Link for visual reference only. Literally the first hit in the search. I'm not recommending for or against this one, just that this style of micrometer is the type that I think is a great way to "play with" unreasonable accuracy when you playing with your tools, and to ignore that excessive accuracy when you are actually doing something useful.

Yep, good point, micrometers are different in the 'ignoring higher resolution where you should' regard. I shouldn't have conflated mic's with indicators. :)
 
Besides, you won't always be able to tell for sure that something is good by visual inspection. You walk in somewhere to buy a set of parallels, the only way you'll know how 'parallel' they are is to take a dial test indicator, and indicator stand and surface plate with you. Or say, buying a dial indicator: Machine Mart sells Clarke dial indicators; there's probably a Machine Mart near you. You can't know by looking that those Clarke indicators will probably have been spottily and poorly QC'd and will only last a year or two before they get crunchy and sticky.
;)
Why not just use a micrometer?


As to the quality of chinese products, some of them have really surprised me lately.
 
That's not controversial with me at all, as it's all the accuracy that's required, but I do have a "slight" counterpoint. Maybe not even a counterpoint, perhaps just a footnote....

When looking for a standard micrometer, I'd recommend one that reads to tenths. Why, when you'll probably never need it? Because the cost of a tenths micrometer versus 0.001 is NOT much different , if at all. And specific to this type of micrometer, because the tenths reading is "separate" from the thousandths reading, it can (and should) be ignored for 99.9 percent of all functional purposes. And it is self supporting, it does not rely on a separate holder to keep it in place, so it won't drive you mad. And it's the highest resolution that you'll get meaningful results from outside of a highly controlled environment. The benefit in having it is because A, that's a zero to low cost way to add that precision to the collection, and B, having that unnecessary precision available to "play with" is a very good opportunity to learn good habits and practices that will apply to just about every measurement you can take. And just getting comfortable with a vernier scale, if one isn't already. I still say it's not needed, just that having it there for "playing with" is a good opportunity for skill building, and just how much the world is made out of rubber, even at the one thousandth level. And I'm speaking in inches, but I'd say the same about a 0.002mm micrometer. You can do the math and see that 0.002mm is not exactly 0.0001 inches, but let me assure you that in a home shop, you need not do that math, because they are the same...

Link for visual reference only. Literally the first hit in the search. I'm not recommending for or against this one, just that this style of micrometer is the type that I think is a great way to "play with" unreasonable accuracy when you playing with your tools, and to ignore that excessive accuracy when you are actually doing something useful.

I can agree with this fully, but will also add that knowing the proper "Feel" to take a measurement with a mic is important also.

The ratchet on most is not desirable IMO, you need to develop the proper "Slip" of the barrel between your fingers or you could be off a few 10ths.
 
Why not just use a micrometer?


As to the quality of chinese products, some of them have really surprised me lately.

Definitely getting better. I've bought some Bauer cordless tools this year as they pop up on sale, I mean who can't use an extra knock around cordless drill for $40. I got them as beaters, extra tools I can have handy and not be too worried about.

I've been impressed, they are much better than I expected, so long as you use the 3AH or bigger batteries. They are kind of anemic with the 1.5ah batteries. I just used one while putting an exhaust fan through the bathroom wall with a 6" hole saw. Going through wood, not sheet rock, my wrist gave out before the drill did.
 
maybe this should be a separate topic but im kinda panicking . I put the apron in a borrowed unltra sonic cleaner and its buggered the paint obviously i now need to get off as much as i can quesstion is if i dry the part then spray it with wd40 will it stop it rusting as i am not set up in any way to paint and then can i remove it with panel wipe when i am ready to paint
 
maybe this should be a separate topic but im kinda panicking . I put the apron in a borrowed unltra sonic cleaner and its buggered the paint obviously i now need to get off as much as I can quesstion is if i dry the part then spray it with wd40 will it stop it rusting as i am not set up in any way to paint and then can i remove it with panel wipe when i am ready to paint
If you get yourself some Acetone or Isopropyl Alcohol, a wire brush/wire wool, and some elbow grease, that should fetch off the paint.

Give it a good clean after paint removal with the Acetone or Isopropyl Alcohol and some blue paper towels.

Then give it a liberal coating of thin machine oil; I use 3 in 1 (what is called 3 in 1 here in the UK anyway) or Singer sewing machine oil (when I can get that cheap).

Let it sit for a while, I usually give it about half an hour, for the oil to soak in, and then wipe off. It shouldn't rust then until the oil that's soaked in is removed. ;)
 
maybe this should be a separate topic but im kinda panicking . I put the apron in a borrowed unltra sonic cleaner and its buggered the paint obviously i now need to get off as much as i can

Chemical paint removal is NOT required; wipe off residues, wire-brush if necessary,
and clean with soap and water. Then dry with a hot air blower, and wait a day to be sure the
crevices are dry... then spritz some suitable paint back onto it.

As long as you don't use oil-soluble paint, it'll shed fingerprint salts and casual lube drips just fine.
An ultrasound excursion is more stressful on the paint than your normal tool use.
 
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