New 2 me Tree Mill, lots of questions

My 2 cents. Just clean up those threads so you can install a bolt to jack screw it up when it comes to moving time. leveling not critical just add a few shims to get it close and have it not rock. It should mostly just sit on the floor.

For sure I'd repair that bolt. Hope its not too hard to remove
 
Flyinfool said:
Nice find
I love my Tree, even though it is older than I am.
I used to work in the very building that was the home of Tree. There are to this day Tree stickers and logos everywhere in that old building.

As OT mentioned, there are 3 motors, You either need 3 VFD or one RPC. I went the route of RPC on my Tree. That same RPC also powers my lathe and surface grinder.

On the Tree, assume nothing. When I bought mine I was told the power feed did not work The motor would run but once engaged it could be stopped with light pressure from one finger. It turned out the the Spindle motor was wired for 220 and the drive motor was wired for 440 and being fed 220. Switched the wires and all was good. It also meant that the drive mechanism was essentially still factory new because it had never been used.
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Do you have suggestions on how to verify the wiring?
 
aluminum said:
Hi folks, here is an update and some more questions. I thought I'd add here since the subject is still the same.

I've gotten around to cleaning my 2VG up a little bit (after slowly trying to heal from wrist surgery) and I've got a phase converter on the way. I'm looking to get it settled into this corner of my shop and off the pallet jack. Yes I know I should not back it up to a wall, but this is the best I can do for now. I was thinking of designing and building a mobile base but am thinking that I may not have to move it a whole lot except for maintenance, if that.
So, my thought now is to use the existing threaded holes in the base (thread size 1"-14) and buy (grade 8) or turn some 8 to10" bolts, turn some feet/pads, and use these to level (and raise when needed) the machine. The assumption is that the base and bolts would be strong enough to lift the mill to provide access for a pallet jack or possibly even some vehicle dollies. I looked into some pre-made Polymount feet but they don't make that size.
What are your thoughts on this solution and alternatives? Also, is there any must-do maintenance that I should do before pushing it back? I'd like to minimize the protrusion from the wall as much as possible without hindering the majority of the (smaller size) work I am likely to do. Should I slide the head to a certain position perhaps, before the move against the wall?
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My question would be does the machine sit high enough for you to operate it comfortably? If you can add "feet" that bring it up 4" and have it be at a good working height you'll be ready to go with a palate jack. Not sure I'd want to use anything else but here's how I raised and made level my somewhat smaller mill.

www.hobby-machinist.com

Samson Vertical Knee Mill

Picked up this mill yesterday and got it moved into my shop. Yes, I already had a Hardinge BB5 and an RF30 clone but when this thing came up on Craigslist I really wanted it bad. Not only is it the biggest mill I could possibly fit in my space, but it's badged Samson like my 12x36 lathe. Now...
www.hobby-machinist.com www.hobby-machinist.com

If you do something like this don't cheap out on the casters, IMHO Zambus makes the only ones worth using if you want leveling too.

All CarryMaster Leveling/Non-Leveling Casters | Zambus, Inc.

Explore our extensive catalog of CarryMaster Casters. The range includes Leveling and Non-Leveling Casters. Leveling foot can be easily raised and lowered either by hand or wrench.
www.zambus.com www.zambus.com

John
 
aluminum said:
Also, this is the phase converter I ordered: https://phaseconverterusa.com/15Hp-Rotary-phase-converter-control-panel-230vac-_p_66.html
Pairing it with an enormous Dayton 15HP motor I picked up for $75
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You can get into creeping elegance here. That converter can have a 60 amp circuit to it. And then supply a whole shop in the future. Problem here is you need far smaller circuit for the single tree mill.

If you are thinking ahead to a full shop, I'd suggest a 3 phase sub panel. These can go real cheap if you scrounge for used. Put a 60 amp circuit in your main load center to this panel. Then put your converter on a 40 amp three phase breaker. Put your tree on a proper breaker, Not sure of your FLA here - 15amp??

Now you are all set to easily add more machines in the future.
 
Nice find!

There's nothing wrong with using grade 8 bolts to lift the machine but they aren't really necessary. I lifted my Bridgeport clone with 3/4" all thread many times. I just cut a 36" stick into 4 pieces and pinned nuts to them with tension pins. Are you sure about 1"-14 tpi? I don't see any reference anywhere to that being a standard pitch for 1". 1"-12 is the standard fine thread.
 
aluminum said:
Oh, I forgot that one of the 4 bolts that holds the secures the head from tilting right/left is broken. Should I even worry about it?
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If you are leary about removing the head, you could drill and tap an undersized hole in the center of the broken T-bolt and add a securing bolt.
 
Thank you all for the feedback and guidance

Some progress made. Off the pallet jack and in its final position. Biga$$ idler motor is off my cart and onto casters. I think this is where it will live. Trying to figure out the best place for the RPC wall mounted control panel. My 240V outlet is about 10ft from the mill. I think I'm going to run some conduit along the upper wall to get 240v closer and mount the panel on the wall left of the milling machine.

Preparing to rearrange the pallet jack

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In position:

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Idlee motor for RPC
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That looks like a fine place for the mill.

Can you move the ram back all the way and not hit the wall. Not that you will ever need to move it back that far. Just in case.


Cutting oil is my blood.
 
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