My ‘new’ Select 1/2V Milling Machine

[WEL0058]

Well I went with this 4 Piece Sharpening 600 and 800 grit Stone Set,

https://www.mcmaster.com/4804A12

Last few days focus on spindle assembly, drive belt and electrical wiring. Problem with belt swivel arm slop was the arm seized to the swivel stud and was rotating in the belt housing thread. Was able to unseized the arm from the stud. Locktite the stud to the belt housing and greased the stud.

Yesterday finished up the electrical wiring when my wife came out to the shop to see the progress on the mill. Decide to go head and test the mill before tramming the bed to spindle since my first project was not critical.

First project is just milling a flat spot on a piece of mechanical tubing to install a grease zerk to use as a bushing for top link on my King Kutter rotary mower. Used a 1/2” four flute HSS bit secured with R8 collet in the spindle. Adjust the belts for 800 rpm spindle speed which will rotate the bit at about 100 feet per minute. Eased the knee up to bottom of bit.

Back the vise back and raised the knee up another 0.030” for initial DOC then turn on the motor. Crank Y-axis eased the bushing into the bit slowly feeding listening and watching the chips. Crank X-axis for a second pass then crank Y-axis back. Repeat for a third pass.

Stop the mill to examine my first time milling. Impress at the finish of the milling. Obvious the bed is not perfectly squared to the spindle. The milled surface is slight tapered.

Raised the knee for next 0.050“DOC and repeat three passes again.

Backed Y-axis out and swapped the collet/bit for the R8 drill chuck with 11/32” drill bit for the 1/8” NPT tap. Chuck the tap and start tap with slight down pressure on the quill while rocking spindle back/forth by hand. Once had tap establish, uncheck the tap from the chuck and resume with the tap handle. (Shy of power tapping - discover last night you can jog the ’ON’ button).

Wow my first milling job was so natural without any problems. Thanks to today’s technology and the experts willing to share their knowledge.
A year ago, I knew what a milling machine is and it’s capability but did not know the details and nuances involved.

Thank you, Bob G.

 

[WEL0058]

Notice today that the Harbor Freight‘s ‘A1S’ style knee milling machine #40939 is now selling for $2,500. Back in the begin of the year, it was sell for $1,900

 

[Aaron_W]

Notice today that the Harbor Freight‘s ‘A1S’ style knee milling machine #40939 is now selling for $2,500. Back in the begin of the year, it was sell for $1,900

They were only about $1600 a few years ago, when I was shopping for a mill.

Nice work on your mill, I've not done nearly as much with mine as I'd like but a milling machine is definitely a handy tool to have around.

 

[brino]

Wow my first milling job was so natural without any problems. Thanks to today’s technology and the experts willing to share their knowledge.
A year ago, I knew what a milling machine is and it’s capability but did not know the details and nuances involved.

Awesome job Bob.
Very well done!

-brino

 

[Weldingrod1]

Here's how I did mine the second time around! I used the guts of a rolling shutter with the dogs taken out. I used fiberglass cloth with diluted silicone caulk squeeged into it. The previous generation was the same cloth but with plasti-dip on it.

Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk

 

[WEL0058]

Thanks Bruno

Rod - Interesting setup. What mill do you have?

 

[WEL0058]

Well this putting some time in on mill at night. Stone the high spots on the mill bed and finished removing the remaining grime.

Start measuring and adjusting the mill. First checked out the spindle with .0001” DTI - could not detect any round out or play in the bearings. Next checked the X, Y and Z axis. Detected no noticeable play in the X and Z ways. The Y axis had .004“ movement but was able to snug up the gibs.

Tram the the mill bed and found the X axis was out by .028” between the two DI. The head rotation scale was not align exactly with zero mark. I notice this when end mill the flat spot on the bushing. Tram the Y axis and was out about .002”. Want to get X axis close to zero then recheck Y again.

 

[WEL0058]

To parallel the mill bed to spindle along the X axis, loosen up the four head rotation nuts. Bump and tighten the nuts about dozen times to get the two DI within less than .0005”.

Rotated the spindle square 90 degree and checked the Y axis for spindle squareness. Y axis was out about .0005”. Just to see, placed a very piece of aluminum under the one DI and it zeroed it out.

Next going to try running a sled along mill bed then mount the Kurt vice and DTI it.

I am really happy with the condition of this 40+ year old mill. Am I missing anything?

 

[WEL0058]

Mounted the 4” Kurt vice and tram it. Threads on my 11” drawbar was worn down enough to not hold my collet. Replaced with a new 12” drawbar from Grizzly.

Had a 2” x 1” steel puck after used a hole saw a 1” plate for my press. Have been using it at work as a paper weight. Perfect piece of steel to practice with after having the mill dialed in. Used a 3/4” collet and roughen endmill bit at 800 rpm. Tried different Depth Of Cut 10,20,30,40,50. Faced milled one side and on the side cut a .050” DOC slot through center. Made on to many turn of the X axis so over shot center by .200”. Had some chatter so oil last cuts. Did a fast mic when finished and looks like thickness within .001”

Very happy with the results so far. See need to keep better track of cranking the axis…

 

[agshooter]

Wow my first milling job was so natural without any problems. Thanks to today’s technology and the experts willing to share their knowledge.
A year ago, I knew what a milling machine is and it’s capability but did not know the details and nuances involved.

Thank you, Bob G.

Bob,
If you don't mind, can you tell me what the overall footprint of the mill is? From back wall to front handle and how much side to side room you need? I am looking at one of these and trying to see if/where it would fit in my shop.
Thanks!