My ‘new’ Select 1/2V Milling Machine

Hi
would like to install an x axis power feed on my select 7x30 mill, can't seem to find anything with a 5/8 shaft ????
 
X axes done. anybody done a power feed on this mill? help
 

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Been doing some improvements on my select mill lately. Going to start a new thread under Asian Mills I think would be the right category.

Rich
 
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I recently joined this forum and was delighted to see a few other members who also have Select 1/2V vertical Mills. I have a 7x30 that I believe dates back to the early 70s. I found it for sale locally last Fall and have spent the last 6 months or so sorting it out and addressing some of its needs. It is far from perfect but it seems to hold nice tight tolerances. I am particularly pleased that the spindle only has about 7-8 tenths runout.

A couple nights ago did a few cuts on a scrap of steel I had. There is a vibration that i think is related to the crappy drawbar that came with the mill. It does not center at the top so I think it is throwing off the balance of the whole spindle assembly. I have a couple drawbars on order from Grizzly that I hope I don't have to modify too much to fit. The mill came with a really sweet 4" Clausing 8636 milling vise. I went through it and it is in really nice shape - but it is small. With the 1/4" thick jaws it only opens up to 3 1/2". Before anyone comments, I know the orientation of the parallels is wrong. I was just trying to space up the work a bit for a few Y axis passes.

This is my first mill. I picked up a decent amount of second hand tooling that should get me going. I did invest in a TMX RE32 collet chuck and some Techniks collets. The quality of both is stellar. Going with an ER setup was particularly attractive because the locating post in the spindle above the R8 taper is almost gone. Swapping out R8 shanks is a bit tedious - the comprimized post is worn enough to allow an r8 shank to be off orientation and not correctly seated in the taper. I did buy the SST tram tool (somewhat impulsively) - it is nice but I probably could have dailed things in just as easily with a indicatior that I already own.

My first objective is to sort out the vibration and get the Mill located in dedicated corner of my shop with a 220 outlet. In the future I am considering doing the following:

- Install a drum switch with reverse
- strut assist for the knee
- upgrade motor from 1 HP to 1 1/2 HP
- install a way cover behind the table
- touch DRO
- I would love to be able to figure out a way to convert it to variable speed
- power feeds if my arms get tired

I added a picture of the other side of my shop with my long term project - 71 Alfa GTV 1750. It is slightly futher along from when this image was taken. If you look closely you can see the headstock of my SB Heavy 10 lathe.
 

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I recently joined this forum and was delighted to see a few other members who also have Select 1/2V vertical Mills. I have a 7x30 that I believe dates back to the early 70s. I found it for sale locally last Fall and have spent the last 6 months or so sorting it out and addressing some of its needs. It is far from perfect but it seems to hold nice tight tolerances. I am particularly pleased that the spindle only has about 7-8 tenths runout.

A couple nights ago did a few cuts on a scrap of steel I had. There is a vibration that i think is related to the crappy drawbar that came with the mill. It does not center at the top so I think it is throwing off the balance of the whole spindle assembly. I have a couple drawbars on order from Grizzly that I hope I don't have to modify too much to fit. The mill came with a really sweet 4" Clausing 8636 milling vise. I went through it and it is in really nice shape - but it is small. With the 1/4" thick jaws it only opens up to 3 1/2". Before anyone comments, I know the orientation of the parallels is wrong. I was just trying to space up the work a bit for a few Y axis passes.

This is my first mill. I picked up a decent amount of second hand tooling that should get me going. I did invest in a TMX RE32 collet chuck and some Techniks collets. The quality of both is stellar. Going with an ER setup was particularly attractive because the locating post in the spindle above the R8 taper is almost gone. Swapping out R8 shanks is a bit tedious - the comprimized post is worn enough to allow an r8 shank to be off orientation and not correctly seated in the taper. I did buy the SST tram tool (somewhat impulsively) - it is nice but I probably could have dailed things in just as easily with a indicatior that I already own.

My first objective is to sort out the vibration and get the Mill located in dedicated corner of my shop with a 220 outlet. In the future I am considering doing the following:

- Install a drum switch with reverse
- strut assist for the knee
- upgrade motor from 1 HP to 1 1/2 HP
- install a way cover behind the table
- touch DRO
- I would love to be able to figure out a way to convert it to variable speed
- power feeds if my arms get tired

I added a picture of the other side of my shop with my long term project - 71 Alfa GTV 1750. It is slightly futher along from when this image was taken. If you look closely you can see the headstock of my SB Heavy 10 lathe.
Welcome aboard OMz,

I have not gotten around to any of my upgrades yet. I already have x-axis power feed, TouchDRO & scales and a 1.5 HP 3-phase motor.

I found my drawbar fine threads worn out/stripped. Grizzle did not have drawbar for 1004/1008 mill but substitute to G0729. Order two. Drawbar is about 1" longer in length. Used couple of larger nuts as spacers to tighen the draw bar. Have not tried cutting some more threads in order to shorten the bar.

If you are going to upgrade the motor, look for a 3-phase motor so you can use a 1-Phase to 3-Phase VFD. Install a control box up front to left side next to belt cover. Use industrial push buttons to control the VFD. VFD are not very hard to setup. With a VFD, you do not need a drum switch. You can program to ramp up speed in one direction then press reverse direction and spindle will slow down - pause - reverse - spin back up. Add a potentiometer to control motor RPM. Pretty cool...

The following link take you to were I was setting up the VFD on my Clausing lathe.

https://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/my-clausing-100-mk-3-serial-5396.78622/post-789553

Bob G.
 
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Take the pin out, you will be fine without it, as long as you snug up the draw bar, it will be good to go. It has been advised here before.
 
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Take the pin out, you will be fine without it, as long as you snug up the draw bar it will be good to go. It has been advised here before.
I had not considered that it was a pin, but that makes sense. I assumed it was somehow contiguous. That If I ever pull the spindle out I will do that. The run out is so ideal right now with what I assume to be the original bearings. The phase "better is the enemy of good" comes to mind.
 
It should be accessible without removing the spindle, I think it's behind the nose cover if I'm not mistaken. Make sure there are no burrs on the hole if you get it out.
 
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