MX-600A 9"x24" mini lathe

[dabear3428]

mounted the lathe on a husky tool box that i got on sale, it works nice
i really like this mounting system it puts the lathe at the perfect height and allows room to access everything, not to mention the box and the lathe are like one structure for the sake of regity, i may add a steel plate between the bottom of the mounts and the wood top to tie both ends together for more regity.

 

[matthewsx]

mounted the lathe on a husky tool box that i got on sale, it works nice
i really like this mounting system it puts the lathe at the perfect height and allows room to access everything, not to mention the box and the lathe are like one structure for the sake of regity, i may add a steel plate between the bottom of the mounts and the wood top to tie both ends together for more regity.

That looks pretty slick, add a removable chip pan and you're in business....

John

 

[dabear3428]

That looks pretty slick, add a removable chip pan and you're in business....

John

yes i'm contemplating a tray with drainage for a coolant system just above the wood top and a removable screen above that so that i can clean the chips out as well as strain the coolant before it gets to the sump

 

[dabear3428]

i'm spending more money/time on upgrading my lathe than actual parts made lol, but then again that is the way i roll.

 

[matthewsx]

yes i'm contemplating a tray with drainage for a coolant system just above the wood top and a removable screen above that so that i can clean the chips out as well as strain the coolant before it gets to the sump

I'd look into a Kool Mist system rather than flood coolant.

John

 

[dabear3428]

I'd look into a Kool Mist system rather than flood coolant.

John

i hear you but i like to have a return system even with the kool mist system, some place for the fluid to go. also while i building stuff i like to keep my options open so if in the future i want to do flood, I can.

 

[dabear3428]

update, I put a level on it and with the mounting brackets i made leveling it was easy, just have to make sure i'm not leaning on it while reading the machinist level, been a fun project so far now on to the DRO.

I did find out that that i need more weight in the stand, i opened 2 drawers at the same time and with the 3 point stand (floor jack) it tilted onto the front caster and gave me a heart attack.

 

[Fozzie Bear]

The 4 jaw independent check K72-125 is a perfect fit after drilling 2 mounting holes to complete the 3 hole pattern, I purchased a 5” dividing head from Vevor to position the bolt pattern but with the 4 jaw on top of it all of my z was eaten up and the drill chuck was too low to get the bit in. But as luck would have it the chuck adapter plate for the dividing head was an exact match for the spindle on my lathe so with some transfer punch work and careful alignment in the mill I got 2 holes to match up with the 3 hole pattern, tapped it for M8 1.25. So now the 2 3jaw and 4 jaw chuck will mount up to my lathe or dividing head.
The 4 jaw fits perfectly to my lathe I bumped it in to 1/4 of a 1000th.

Hi @dabear3428 I have purchased exactly the same MX-600A lathe and on a journey to modify and improve it. I havelso bought the same quick release toolpost which is working well but the compound slide needs some major work which I intend to do later. My first project however is a quill extension but I don't have an end mill, so need a four jaw chuck to machine and bore the extension to the tailstock.

I too am looking at the Vevor K72-125 but as you have found these are four bolt fixing and the existing chuck is three bolt. I am considering the best approach hence joining this forum as I found your post. Should I drill and tap the chuck to allow the existing three bolt fixings or should I drill a new four bolt pattern on the headstock spindle flange? I am unlikely to use a 5" dividing head without an end mill.

I would appreciate understanding what you did and if you would have changed it in hindsight?

 

[dabear3428]

Hi @dabear3428 I have purchased exactly the same MX-600A lathe and on a journey to modify and improve it. I havelso bought the same quick release toolpost which is working well but the compound slide needs some major work which I intend to do later. My first project however is a quill extension but I don't have an end mill, so need a four jaw chuck to machine and bore the extension to the tailstock.

I too am looking at the Vevor K72-125 but as you have found these are four bolt fixing and the existing chuck is three bolt. I am considering the best approach hence joining this forum as I found your post. Should I drill and tap the chuck to allow the existing three bolt fixings or should I drill a new four bolt pattern on the headstock spindle flange? I am unlikely to use a 5" dividing head without an end mill.

I would appreciate understanding what you did and if you would have changed it in hindsight?

i posted a link to an adapter plate that should work (YMMV).

Mini lathe chuck change out

Find a friend with a bandsaw My parting experience on my lathe with 3/4 hot rolled ended with me looking for holes in my roof, after I changed my shorts. Jamming the lathe is not the worst thing that can happen. I was thinking of a riot shield during the operation , lol All jokes aside...

www.hobby-machinist.com

reply #36

 

[Fozzie Bear]

i posted a link to an adapter plate that should work (YMMV).
reply #36

Thanks for that @dabear3428 . The only problem with adapters/spacers is they extend the chuck further away from headstock bearings and amplify any runout. I also saw the video on the same post to the guy who installed a Vevo independent four jaw chuck by drilling out the new chuck to accept three bolts. I think I might go this route.
As an aside did your lathe come with a cast iron compound slide as shown in the eBay image at the beginning of this post? Mine came with this rubbish hollow aluminium compound slide:-

To rotate it you have to wind the slide nearly off to access the two bolts attaching it to the cross slide. It has no quadrant to check the set angle and it would be better if the compound slide gib and adjustment bolts were on the opposite side of the compound slide as there would be less likelihood of the slide twisting as the tool bit into the workpiece. That said I have found a cast iron compound slide assembly on Aliexpress that looks identical to the eBay image. I need to sort out the chuck first before I attempt any more changes