Monarch 10ee

Depending on what timer relay you have in machine it will not spin for 30 or 60 seconds, you hit the green button to fire it up after warm up period. Also check that your forward neutral reverse switch is not caught between poles. Usually they are wired so lever towards the tailstock is reverse, towards headstock is forward and in between is neutral, although I have seen them reversed. Also check that your spindle lock is released, there is a switch on it for safety, so if its locked no spindle rotation. I did not know a 2 tube machine could run on single phase, but then again I don't own one.

michael
 
Remember KISS. (Keep it simple stupid) Look all over for something that came loose. The old girl has taken quite a bumpy ride.

Good luck

If this don't work, you might as well get on with that VFD upgrade. Then it will run for another 50 years.

Karl
 
Well "Uncle" Bill solved the problem. It was the solinoid in hatch that is under the tailstock. It was not closing into the hole in the door which caused the annoying racket.

With a little messing around with my middle digit I got it to obey.

Now the machine is running and sounding like The Wife's 75 year old Singer. I'm happy. After dinner I'll be making CHIPS.
 
Turned a few swarfs and chips on 10L14 scrap. Now I see why Monarchs are the greatest. Smooth, slick, intuitive, and quiet all the way up to 4000rpm. Threading should be a pleasure.

I truly don't deserve this fine machine. It is WAY above my skill level. I will do my best to honor it and pass it along when I go to thar Great Machine Shop in The Sky.
 
Very nice, look forward to some photos of it in action. Looking at the schematic, the lathe runs off of L1 and L3, the control circuits run off of a 115VAC reference circuit and the motor voltage is rectified DC. Three phase would be used for the optional coolant pump. They do give some test voltages and reference points in the manual I posted, but there is significant voltages in the circuit. There are taps to set the filament heater voltages, tubes can be very finicky when it come to the heater voltages, the manuals specifies +/-5%. Assuming you have 230-240VAC coming in, you might check at some point (with the power disconnected) that the inputs for T-6 and T-7 are connected to the Black (common) and Green (237V) tap are connected to L1 and L3. You might keep your eye at for some spare C16J tubes if they come up at the right price. I have a few thousand tubes, but mostly for audio gear.
 
Been learning the machine. Had to tweak the tailstock a little used my laser in a 3/8 collet.

Had a piece of 1.25 drill rod which I turned down about three inches on each end to one inch on my Clausing. Then I center drilled each end and chucked one end in a one inch collet on the Monarch. The other end was held in a live center.

Turned it at 1200 rpm. The finish was beautiful, runout over 11 inches was about .003 all of which was within 3 inches of the tailstock. Is this good, bad or indifferent?

Tomorrow I'm going to reverse the piece and see what happens.
 
3 thou on 11 inch piece that thick is dreadful. Bad center, or tailstock is tilting up or down too much. I would bet there are shims in between 2 sections of tailstock and that you need to reshim, but something is very wrong. Even on a well used machine that is no longer in spec you should be able to hold a couple tenths. I would not worry too much yet that it is a bed wear issue, that is a metric boatload of runout, its likely a tailstock issue. If this machine was once in a factory with several EEs, its possible you have the wrong tailstock for your machine, they were all hand scraped in to the particular machine, so you may have some shimming ahead of you.

Good to hear its running okay and you like the surface finish.
michael
 
It is dead on until about the last three inches from the tailstock then it falls off the cliff.
 
MattM said:
It is dead on until about the last three inches from the tailstock then it falls off the cliff.
Click to expand...

If that is the case I suspect a lot of work was done on that part of the bed and you have some wear or maybe if you are lucky your carriage bearings are out of adjustment. Its in the manual how to adjust them. From experience, if you cant adjust it out then its bed wear. There is a great book on machine tool rebuilding, advertised in HSM usually (Conolly) that explains better than I how to check for bed wear, might be on line some where also. My hunch is you have misadjusted bearing and some wear. Is your Bijur oiler putting out oil to the four corners of carriage? If not bed wear will be most likely, but like I mentioned you can set up to measure that. You might look for a ding on bed way, that is causing issue. Those ways are very hard but its possible a ding is throwing carriage off in one spot especially if the bearing for carriage are misadjusted. If the bearing adjust fine to slightly difficult to turn by hand but tighten up especially in the area you are having troubles then its bed or saddle wear, most likely due to failed oiler or no oil.

Time for a thorough proper set up of machine
michael
 
MattM said:
It is dead on until about the last three inches from the tailstock then it falls off the cliff.
Click to expand...

certainly sounds like tailstock. You know it can easily be adjusted in/out. I'd use an indicator on a piece of ground and polish rod with center drill. Mount the rod between centers and indicate at both ends to see what's going on.

I work to 2 tenths just for good habit on my 10EE. Once the DRO is setup I can make part after part always just right. It will have you plumb spoilt. Every now and then I make a part on my 100 year old Leblond with babbit bearings just so I don't forget how to be a machinist. FWIW it has a 16" swing on a 120" bed, just a bit bigger than the 10EE.

Karl
 
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