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Models for grinding HSS Lathe Tools
- Thread starter mikey
- Start date
- Joined
- Dec 20, 2012
- Messages
- 9,408
Yup, agree with Jeff. Grind on some keystock until you get used to shaping tools, then switch to HSS and get good at that before switching to cobalt.
Cheapest place to buy HSS blanks is ebay.
And yes, the models and the tools you grind when reproducing them will work fine in your QCTP on your 9" lathe. In fact, I think they are the best kind of tools to use for that lathe.
Build your own it's a lot of fun and personal satisfaction...... but there are some caveat.
I did mine like a Sherman tank BUT I used the stock steel I had and was familiar with. Basically if you can weld half decently you can build your own. There are numerous models to choose from on Utube and ebay..... my biggest influence was Jefff and Ttabal based on the model of Dan Cormeau??? spelling???
I used 1/4 inch thick trailer reveiver tubing.... 2 inches that fits nicely inside the 2 1/2 trailer receiver..... that receiver tube has no INSIDE welding ridge to grind off. I am sure that 1/8 or even 1/16 wall thickness would be adaquate. Respect your skill/tools limitation....... in my case drilling and tapping the perfect hole on the D plate would have been a waste to time and good material so I purchased one ready made from Ebay "Oregonblade" including the platen base....... got a pyroceramic glass plate as well. Used a spare 2 hp 220 v ac with step pulleys for changing belt speed...... still using the one to one ratio so far. will eventually paint it whent he weather gets milder around here.......-18C tonite....
Followed gluing instructions to the letter using J B Weld...... sandblasted the glass back side and etched a criss-cross pattern on the steel with the Dremel and a diamond bit.
I have now graduated to ceramic belts....... caution the 40 grit works fast but tends to throw grit in your face.... so a small guard/defector is in the design stage for the top D plate pulley,,,, I have used a partly worn 220 Alum. Oxide belt for the polishing....works like magic.... and yes I am using a face shield.
I saw a Utube where they were using a machined aluminum block to hold the cutter piece when grinding.....being limited by the lack of a milling machine I made some out of hard maple..... which works nice as proof of concept........ machine shops gets expensive so I am thinking of building a similar jig using Key stock welded to a 1/8 plate........ will have pictures soon as I can work out the angle details...... now going of a 30 degrees slot for the side and a 15 degrees for the rake. Will see how that works out.....eventually will make 3 sets 1/4, 5/16, /3/8.
Look at the previous postings of my completed machine...... will gladly answer any questions to the best of my abilities. Be prepared to turn on the creative juices....... lots of examples out there...... be prepared to adjust the belt tracking by adding or removing washers on the axles to get the best natural tracking......... fine tune with the tracking adjustments.
Finally got some belt lub....... seems to work nice but having changed to ceramic belt at the same time as the belt lub it is hard to tell which influence what!!!
one closing question..... it seems inevitable that the rake angle is always easier to gring on the RH side of the platen, which wears out that edge first..... any suggestions on how to get around that??? I can use the LH side for the LH tools but it is not as easy......considering reverting to a wheel grinder to rough out the rake angle and finish/polish with the belt>>>>!!!!!
I have been dealing with Red Label on Ebay for the belts...... fresh stock, very quick turn around, good selection and competitive prices.
Above all keep it simple and have fun!!!
Bob C
I did mine like a Sherman tank BUT I used the stock steel I had and was familiar with. Basically if you can weld half decently you can build your own. There are numerous models to choose from on Utube and ebay..... my biggest influence was Jefff and Ttabal based on the model of Dan Cormeau??? spelling???
I used 1/4 inch thick trailer reveiver tubing.... 2 inches that fits nicely inside the 2 1/2 trailer receiver..... that receiver tube has no INSIDE welding ridge to grind off. I am sure that 1/8 or even 1/16 wall thickness would be adaquate. Respect your skill/tools limitation....... in my case drilling and tapping the perfect hole on the D plate would have been a waste to time and good material so I purchased one ready made from Ebay "Oregonblade" including the platen base....... got a pyroceramic glass plate as well. Used a spare 2 hp 220 v ac with step pulleys for changing belt speed...... still using the one to one ratio so far. will eventually paint it whent he weather gets milder around here.......-18C tonite....
Followed gluing instructions to the letter using J B Weld...... sandblasted the glass back side and etched a criss-cross pattern on the steel with the Dremel and a diamond bit.
I have now graduated to ceramic belts....... caution the 40 grit works fast but tends to throw grit in your face.... so a small guard/defector is in the design stage for the top D plate pulley,,,, I have used a partly worn 220 Alum. Oxide belt for the polishing....works like magic.... and yes I am using a face shield.
I saw a Utube where they were using a machined aluminum block to hold the cutter piece when grinding.....being limited by the lack of a milling machine I made some out of hard maple..... which works nice as proof of concept........ machine shops gets expensive so I am thinking of building a similar jig using Key stock welded to a 1/8 plate........ will have pictures soon as I can work out the angle details...... now going of a 30 degrees slot for the side and a 15 degrees for the rake. Will see how that works out.....eventually will make 3 sets 1/4, 5/16, /3/8.
Look at the previous postings of my completed machine...... will gladly answer any questions to the best of my abilities. Be prepared to turn on the creative juices....... lots of examples out there...... be prepared to adjust the belt tracking by adding or removing washers on the axles to get the best natural tracking......... fine tune with the tracking adjustments.
Finally got some belt lub....... seems to work nice but having changed to ceramic belt at the same time as the belt lub it is hard to tell which influence what!!!
one closing question..... it seems inevitable that the rake angle is always easier to gring on the RH side of the platen, which wears out that edge first..... any suggestions on how to get around that??? I can use the LH side for the LH tools but it is not as easy......considering reverting to a wheel grinder to rough out the rake angle and finish/polish with the belt>>>>!!!!!
I have been dealing with Red Label on Ebay for the belts...... fresh stock, very quick turn around, good selection and competitive prices.
Above all keep it simple and have fun!!!
Bob C
- Joined
- May 10, 2017
- Messages
- 1,198
one closing question..... it seems inevitable that the rake angle is always easier to gring on the RH side of the platen, which wears out that edge first..... any suggestions on how to get around that??? I can use the LH side for the LH tools but it is not as easy......considering reverting to a wheel grinder to rough out the rake angle and finish/polish with the belt>>>>!!!!!
Bob C[/QUOTE]
Why not flip the belt around to even out the wear. The ceramics I have are not directional, are yours?
Bob C[/QUOTE]
Why not flip the belt around to even out the wear. The ceramics I have are not directional, are yours?
Arrows ???? .......... didn't even see the Indians.....
My Ceramic is far from being worn...... the first edge to go was the AO 220 which I now use for polishing.... been using the old AO to put on a fine round radius on the bits....... but it is hard to control an even radius
All my belts have arrows that I recall....... will need to check specifically the ceramic belts....... having broken so many 42 in. belts, I am trying to go by the rules and follow the arrows on the big grinder.
How "BIG" a nono is it to reverse the belts???? you would get a fresh bite from the grits......
Ceramic runs real cool and fast.... I have 36 to 120 but have only tried the 36 so far. All my practice grinds on key stock and HSS have been done with AO so if the belt is tired and worn so be it.
It seems that cutting bits in HSS or even cobalt are cheaper by the lot size based on Ebay....... almost $1.00 each HSS by the lot of 60.
Key stock I get from the local fabricator, who uses it in fancy metal work...... is about $7. for a 10 foot length of 1/4x1/4 in.
Cheers
My Ceramic is far from being worn...... the first edge to go was the AO 220 which I now use for polishing.... been using the old AO to put on a fine round radius on the bits....... but it is hard to control an even radius
All my belts have arrows that I recall....... will need to check specifically the ceramic belts....... having broken so many 42 in. belts, I am trying to go by the rules and follow the arrows on the big grinder.
How "BIG" a nono is it to reverse the belts???? you would get a fresh bite from the grits......
Ceramic runs real cool and fast.... I have 36 to 120 but have only tried the 36 so far. All my practice grinds on key stock and HSS have been done with AO so if the belt is tired and worn so be it.
It seems that cutting bits in HSS or even cobalt are cheaper by the lot size based on Ebay....... almost $1.00 each HSS by the lot of 60.
Key stock I get from the local fabricator, who uses it in fancy metal work...... is about $7. for a 10 foot length of 1/4x1/4 in.
Cheers
- Joined
- Dec 20, 2012
- Messages
- 9,408
Hey Shorton, this deal is still available on eBay: https://www.ebay.com/itm/50pcs-3-8-...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649
I've been cutting with a few of them and have been happy with them. Particularly for the price.
- Joined
- Nov 14, 2016
- Messages
- 3,343
I ran across this youtube video the other night. I found it a good visual demonstration of what the various cuts are for and how they work, He starts off by trying to turn a piece of aluminum with a flat square piece of HSS, and then progressively adds relief and rake angles to show how they improve the cut. Also a little bit of discussion about the function of chip breakers near the end.
The purpose of these features has been well documented here, but I always find visual aids help.
The purpose of these features has been well documented here, but I always find visual aids help.
- Joined
- Dec 20, 2012
- Messages
- 9,408
I really liked how his computer graphics helped to illustrate the angles he was talking about, and also how he was able to show how each added angle changed the cut. There are very few videos that address how a turning tool cuts and in my opinion, the more, the better.
In this thread, we discussed how to grind a tool and barely touched on how a tool actually works. We can discuss how it works if that is of interest to you guys. I've tried that discussion before and judging from the few responses I got, my impression is that most guys could care less how the tool works as long as it works.
In this thread, we discussed how to grind a tool and barely touched on how a tool actually works. We can discuss how it works if that is of interest to you guys. I've tried that discussion before and judging from the few responses I got, my impression is that most guys could care less how the tool works as long as it works.
