Glad the geometry worked for you, HB. Now that you can take a big cut, see how the tool works for small cuts; this is where HSS really shines.
Pick a material and take a skim cut to get the skin off and then measure it. Choose a target size, with dimensions in the tenths. Rough it with the tool perpendicular to the work until you're within 0.01000" of final size. Then turn the tip of the tool toward the tailstock about 10 degrees and take 0.005 - 0.007" off with a sizing pass. Without changing the tool angle, take one or two finish cuts and see if you can come in exactly on size. This is how you will normally work with your tool - rough ugly, size to get close and then shave off a hair to come in on size.
This brings to mind the concept of tolerances. In a production shop, tolerances usually run +/- 0.005" unless otherwise stated. In a hobby shop, a guy with a good tool can get his range much tighter without too much trouble once he knows how the tool likes to cut. I have a square tool that is well over a decade old. It is in need of regrinding or replacement but I am loathe to get rid of it because it will cut whatever I can dial in. If I dial in a depth of cut with a dial indicator the tool will usually cut it. This tool has cut off 0.0002" off the diameter in a controlled cut. Everything is right on this tool, especially the nose radius, so I gently hone only the top when it needs to be sharpened. My daily driver knife tool will do the same thing.
As for nose radius, my suggestion is to buy a radius gauge set. A cheap import set will do. This allows you to have a clear idea of what a 1/64" or a 1/32" radius looks like. You do not need to be exact with your nose radius; just get it close. When you stone it onto the tip of the tool, grind a flat slightly less than the desired nose radius and be sure the flat is even from the top to the bottom of the tool, then gently round the edges of the flat to blend in with the side and end faces.
