Making a Part Look Pretty

It might be time to make or buy a flycutter. WreckWreck turned us on to the B-52: http://www.kristitool.com/b-52-fly-cutter/

The B-52 can run at high speeds, uses a single inserted carbide tip and can cut to a shoulder, which is a big advantage. Not cheap but it looks good.

Another option is the Tormach Superfly: https://www.tormach.com/store/index.php?app=ecom&ns=prodshow&ref=32428

The Superfly also uses inserts and cuts a clean, flat surface. Finish is acceptable but not a mirror finish. Can be run at high speeds and is half the cost of a B-52. It cannot cut to a shoulder, which is a disadvantage but it will cut a very flat, even surface. I own this one at the moment.

You can also make your own head to take a LH HSS flycutting tool.

Or you can make a head to accept a Superfly arm or a Suburban Tool flycutter arm. All of these will be faster than a shell mill and potentially will produce a finish that is as good or better than a shell mill. They all use only a single insert. The carbide cutters will also run at the max speed of your mill, enhancing finishes, and all can run with low HP motors.

That old brazed carbide shell mill has a socket head screw underneath so I suspect the cutter head can be replaced. Personally, I would go with a fly cutter. If you have the HP, that B-52 can take a o.100" bite so it can do stock removal, too.
 
Hi ddickey, that is strangest looking "face" mill I have ever seen. Perhaps it is some sort of special purpose industrial cuter, originally used on a horizontal mill? I get it that you found the fly cutter gave you horrible results - but mikey has given you some good advice to work a little harder with the fly cutter. I recently made up some short sections of rail road steel for a display, cut on the power hacksaw and then fly cut on the mill - the finish was very good (I have not cut rail road rail before, I found this to be quite tough material).

I tilted the head slightly off tram, so that the trailing side of the fly cutter did not drag (this is for a display the very shallow dish is not a problem) and I found I could only take about 0.005" depth of cut - though I could feed fairly fast, but then the finish deteriorated. For the nice finish I ended up using my slowest table speed (0.75"/min). I found that I would only get 3 passes before needing to regrind (using brazed carbide). You should see from these last couple sentences that it was a trial/error process - making a few cuts and just seeing what worked.

For the attached pictures, the cut was about 6" wide, using a boring/facing head, I had everything pulled in or set up as close as possible and everything locked tight. Although the machine is a Cinci knee mill with a #40 taper - which gives more mass and stiffness than the G1004, you should still be able to get good results with what you have. Keep working at it.

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Looks really nice Chipper5783. What was the display for?
Mikey, I see a few home made fly cutters out there. I think I'll attempt to make one and use that Superfly bar.
Thanks for the info guys'
 
Looks really nice Chipper5783. What was the display for?
Mikey, I see a few home made fly cutters out there. I think I'll attempt to make one and use that Superfly bar.
Thanks for the info guys'

If you make one to take the Superfly bar, it is held at a 19 degree down angle from the head.
 
A fly cutter set up properly with a carefully trammed mill will be so smooth that you can't feel or really see
the machining marks. A single point fly cutter is superior to any multi toothed tool for a smooth surface.
I know a somewhat larger radius is supposed to better for a smooth surface but I am getting good
results with a right hand 1/2 inch carbide with a pretty tight radius. I have yet to try the recommended
radius on the tool.


P1000814.JPG
It takes a bit of practice with cutter geometry and feeds and speeds to get it right. I'm still
experimenting but happy with the results so far. The bottom of the photo is of a piece of
mild steel milled with the above cutter.
 
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After you get the right cutting tool,I use a deburring wheel to polish to a shine.Warning,the wheel will remove finger hide quickly----kroll
 
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