Lathe Setup Problems

If your holes are larger than your screw that goes through them,make sure both the upper and lower nuts are well tightened when all is leveled. Seems like the screws could move around in the holes from machine vibration if they aren't good and snug,causing your machine to get out of level.

I need to check my large lathe: we had a small earthquake tremor some months ago here,which never happens around here. Probably I need to re level my lathe to some degree. I used those type pads(I think mine were Masons).
 
george wilson said:
If your holes are larger than your screw that goes through them,make sure both the upper and lower nuts are well tightened when all is leveled. Seems like the screws could move around in the holes from machine vibration if they aren't good and snug,causing your machine to get out of level.
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There are no lower nuts George, the drawings are a bit misleading. The lathe foot sits directly on the top of the mount and the nut/washer is run down against the top of the foot to lock everything in place. When everything is locked down tight, it should be earthquake proof. :thumbzup:

Tom
 
Hey, it's been slow getting this lathe setup. I just put the lathe on the bases last night. Right now, the front tailstock pad has no weight on it, but that the front is low, and the tailstock is low, so it will get weight.

I plan to torque the lathe to the bases, what should I torque them at? To level the lathe I was going to level it by raising two of the headstock base pads, but with the pads I have, I would have to use up some of the 5/8" adjustment that I have. How should I go about leveling the lathe?
 
jonathan01 said:
Hey, it's been slow getting this lathe setup. I just put the lathe on the bases last night. Right now, the front tailstock pad has no weight on it, but that the front is low, and the tailstock is low, so it will get weight.

I plan to torque the lathe to the bases, what should I torque them at? To level the lathe I was going to level it by raising two of the headstock base pads, but with the pads I have, I would have to use up some of the 5/8" adjustment that I have. How should I go about leveling the lathe?
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Johnathan,

I doubt that your floor is more than 5/8" out of level. Adjust your pads up and down until all are supporting the lathe and it is somewhat level and the pads are near the center of their travel, then fine tune it from there. If you run out of travel on any of the pads, just throw a shim underneath to make up the difference. I would save the center two pads for last. Back them off and work with the four outer pads to get the thing level, then adjust those two pads to take up the weight. I wouldn't worry about torquing any of the pads, just tighten them down and re-check for level.

Tom
 
TomG said:
Johnathan,

I doubt that your floor is more than 5/8" out of level. Adjust your pads up and down until all are supporting the lathe and it is somewhat level and the pads are near the center of their travel, then fine tune it from there. If you run out of travel on any of the pads, just throw a shim underneath to make up the difference. I would save the center two pads for last. Back them off and work with the four outer pads to get the thing level, then adjust those two pads to take up the weight. I wouldn't worry about torquing any of the pads, just tighten them down and re-check for level.

Tom
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I wasn't going to to torque the pads, I was talking about the lathe itself to the top of the bases. I just throw the level on it last night to get a rough idea, I think is off by 1/16" in a foot, 1/8" at the very most. If I put the pads in the center range, I will be able to lower the high side half the amount, and the raise the low side to level it, so I am good with that.

Thanks,
Jonathan
 
I got the ways pretty level, and when I put the level on top of the headstock, it is out of level both ways. Should the headstock be level too?
 
Jonathan,

I doubt there are any machined surfaces on the headstock that you could level from, or if there were I wouldn't rely on them for leveling. As long as the bed is level right to left and front to back at both ends, you are good to go.

Tom
 
I got everything hooked up, oiled up, and level, except the main 220v wire, that I still have to run. I have the ways leveled, but I leveled it across the two vee ways, and when I put the level across the the cross slide, it matches the level longways. But, when I put it sideways, the back is high. So, the back vee must be slightly higher than the front vee. I know the twist is out of it like it is now, but should I put the level across the cross slide?

Also,what flood coolant do yall recommend. I plan to start to make about 100 parts right after I get the hang of the lathe, that are made out of 1/2" 440c SS round stock, and maybe a few made out of titanium too.

Thanks,
Jonathan
 
Jonathan,

As long as there is no twist in the bed, a lathe doesn't need to be level. A milling machine table is different because if the table is known to be level, you can use a level to set up work.

Pretty much any synthetic coolant should be fine, just use whatever is available in your area. Kool Mist is a common brand available most anywhere. Using coolant does have its issues. You'll need to change it regularly to keep it from stinking and keep an eye open for rust.

Tom
 
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