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Knurling tool build
- Thread starter rwm
- Start date
- Joined
- Jan 31, 2016
- Messages
- 12,916
You seem to have it down , I haven't used CAD in 20 years now . We had UG back at the DOD shop . One of these days I would love to have the time to try the 360 out . Your models are looking great Robert . 
- Joined
- Mar 25, 2013
- Messages
- 5,142
First part:
It's a fail. The hole is way off center because the drill must have skated
I center punched, spot drilled and then drilled the hole. It is worse than the pic shows and too far off for me to be happy. My scrap pile is getting larger! Without a mill, I am also going to have trouble with the 3/4" holes in the arms. I may have to reduce the size of those or bore them on the lathe. I think making a fixture and using the lathe may be the best solution.
Robert
It's a fail. The hole is way off center because the drill must have skated
I center punched, spot drilled and then drilled the hole. It is worse than the pic shows and too far off for me to be happy. My scrap pile is getting larger! Without a mill, I am also going to have trouble with the 3/4" holes in the arms. I may have to reduce the size of those or bore them on the lathe. I think making a fixture and using the lathe may be the best solution.
Robert
- Joined
- Sep 29, 2017
- Messages
- 2,295
Also looking forward to the build and blunders so I can make mine.
. No I am seriously looking forward to the proses.
- Joined
- Sep 29, 2017
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- 2,295
My thinking too.
- Joined
- Feb 9, 2017
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- 5,544
I don't expect you'll see it my way but progress, not perfection. I'd use that first part and if it offends your need for perfection I'd trim the outside to center the hole a little. As long as the knurl wheels are in line with each other and track together the esthetics don't matter on a prototype. Just because a company makes something doesn't mean they made it perfect the first time. And I'll bet you $$'s to donuts they have a pile of prototypes that got tossed.
I was very frustrated with my old HF benchtop DP until I bought one of the cheap XY tables for it. NOT for milling but to be able easily adjust my clamped parts to get right in the center of my mark. Also using screw length drill bits instead of jobber length drills has made a world of difference. I've learned the weak spots in my layout and how to minimize the errors.
I was very frustrated with my old HF benchtop DP until I bought one of the cheap XY tables for it. NOT for milling but to be able easily adjust my clamped parts to get right in the center of my mark. Also using screw length drill bits instead of jobber length drills has made a world of difference. I've learned the weak spots in my layout and how to minimize the errors.
- Joined
- Mar 25, 2013
- Messages
- 5,142
I just redesigned the lower arm to be about 0.3" shorter. Took me about an hour but I am learning a lot about fusion. This design change allows me to swing the part on my 10" lathe. Otherwise the 3/4" holes would not be possible. I know the upper arm I made will work but I will probably remake it at some point. Here is the new drawing:
Robert
Robert
- Joined
- Feb 2, 2013
- Messages
- 3,967
watching intently 
- Joined
- Mar 25, 2013
- Messages
- 5,142
Problem number next. I learned the tolerance on flat steel is 0 to -.006. Mine is .369 thick. That will be a problem with the knurls which are .3745. Anyone got a small piece of metric 10 x 25 flat bar they can part with? I can machine that down to .0375 easily. If not I know McMaster does!
Robert
Robert
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