Jane's Clock.

[Tom Griffin]

It's coming along well Brian. I'll be looking forward to seeing it run.

And thanks for posting the build, it's definitely an inspiration for other would be clock builders.

Tom

 

[BRIAN]

Thanks for the comments , i am glad you are enjoying it.

The next step is to plant the position of the gears.
the gears are set up in the depthing tool and adjusted to get a smooth action.
One point of the tool is located in the existing hole,



and an arc struck across the centre line with the other point of the tool.

The mark is then enlarged.



A drill is selected , smaller than the pivot size, and also a taperd broach .



After drilling the hole with the two plates pined together, the holes are opened up from both sides until the pivot just fits.





When all the pivots are finished the gears are assembled for a trial.



Assemble the escapement and the movement can be run on test. Easy to say, but can take a long time to get it right.



With the movement running we can turn to the motion work, the gears are mounted on pipes that carry the hands,
These have been made over length so I can find room for the striking trip pin, and get the position of the dial. before triming them to length for the hands.
This is what happens when you build without plans!!





Brian.

 

[BRIAN]

No problems Prof,

We make the blanks the size to get the centres correct, then cut the teeth with the next number up,
the result is the teeth are very slightly thinner, but backlash is not a problem in clocks, its a one way machine.

As both gears are cut to the same number the 1-1 ratio is preserved.

As you say silly questions do not exist on this forum, it all helps the understanding of the thread,
and helps those as yet too timid to ask.

Thank you --Brian.

 

[BRIAN]

To continue. we now have all the parts of the drive for the hands. so we can how plant the gear train and position the pin that supports the gears.
In this picture I have scribed the arc firmly so you can see the point that the hole must be drilled.



After drilling, the gear train is now assembled and the clock tested.



Now we are shure it all works the positions of the dial posts are marked and the supports of the striking system marked.



The positions have been drilled and its back on test for a overnite run, thats all for today.



Brian.

 

[BRIAN]

Having made the dial pillars the next job was to silver the dial, this is done by rubbing silvering powder ( silver nitrate I think ? ) onto the slightly wet dial keeping at it until all is covered and then rinse and rub with cream of tatarter to bring up the whitenes of the silver.



Next fix the dial transfer.



Fix dial in place.



and put back on test while the hands are made.



The hands are cut out roughly with the saw after drilling the holes.



Then finished to size ready for blueing when the clock is finished.



The clutch spring fits behind the reverse minute wheel to allow the hands to be set .



The motion work.



The clock was running just in time. JANE ARIVED.



I now have to make the drive weight case and pully But the heat is off, I have a very happy step daughter.

Beian.

 

[PurpLev]

thats some beautiful work!

 

[ScrapMetal]

I now have to make the drive weight case and pully But the heat is off, I have a very happy step daughter.

Beian.

She should be happy that is a wonderful piece of work.

-Ron

 

[Tom Griffin]

Brian,

So when will you be starting on "Tom's clock"?

Great job! It's always a great feeling of accomplishment to design and build something yourself. You must be very happy.

And thanks for taking the time to include us in the build via your pictures and descriptions.

Tom

 

[12bolts]

Brian,
Very nice build up and with the pics and commentary also.

I am interested in the hand drill in this picture.

View attachment 36400

Did you make it? Can we have a bit more info on it, perhaps with enough details for making one from scratch?

cheers Phil

 

[swatson144]

Awesome work thanks for sharing it!

Steve