If you need gears... Print them...

[wa5cab]

I doubt that it would last more than a few weeks. Plastic isn't strong enough for the set screw, the Woodruff key, or the direct drive pin, spring and set screw. And the index holes would be easily damaged.

 

[coherent]

I use some PLA in my 3D printer that is pretty strong stuff. You can print it with any price range printer and when the part is done you can aneal it on a baking sheet in your oven. Its high temp resistant also. There are a number of new high strength filaments out there and the list is growing. I was just reading about a carbon fiber filament that is supposed to be really strong. Do a search for high strength filaments and you'll be surprised what's out there.

I've had my printer for a little over a year. Import clone of a dual extruder FlashForge Creator by a China company called Qidi. I beleive I only paid about 600 for it through Amazon and although they have gone up a little, they have upgraded models now. I'm happy with it. There are plenty of other companies making 3D printers now which has kept prices reasonably low so lots of choices. Tons of aftermarket parts and filaments available and the field is still growing. Once you have one, it's amazing all the little plastics do dads and parts you can make. Then you can tell your wife... "look dear, I made a new window screen frame corner, it only cost me $650". But seriously, they do come in handy and hey, who doesn't want a new toy.. err tool?

 

[markba633csi]

What about aluminum Robert? Where does 6061-T6 fall on the scale I wonder?
Mark

 

[clif]

Just for reference

Tensile Yield Strength

Zamac 30,200 psi

Aluminum 6061-T6 40000 psi

PLA 9500 psi

ABS 4,300 psi

Nylon 5,800 psi

Polycarbonate 10,000 psi

PVC 6,500 psi

1018 steel 63800 psi

12L14 steel 78300 psi

 

[Round in circles]

That's actually pretty clever. You'll still need a furnace to fire the crucible in and need final finish (like a lot of castings) but overall, I'd say it's a fairly novel approach.

With the right metal powder and a furnace that's hot enough, you'd certainly get your gears out of it.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

I suspect that using an induction ring & a slow speed lifiting motor device to move the coil instead of a furnace to bring thing up to fusing temperatures will be much easier

 

[Round in circles]

Just for reference

Tensile Yield Strength

Zamac 30,200 psi

Aluminum 6061-T6 40000 psi

PLA 9500 psi

ABS 4,300 psi

Nylon 5,800 psi

Polycarbonate 10,000 psi

PVC 6,500 psi

1018 steel 63800 psi

12L14 steel 78300 psi

Have you got shear figures for them all for the same thicknesses rather than tensile strength ?

The meshing of the teeth on the plastic gears appears to show two faces incontact all the time , so shear strength will be high . One thing that's crossed my mind is that you might keep the web of the gears holow honey combed but make the teeth and a few mm of their feet roots solid . That would allow a lot of wear & shear strength .

Dear Santa Clause ,
If I'm good can I have a decent 3D printer ?

 

[clif]

Have you got shear figures for them all for the same thicknesses rather than tensile strength ?

No I looked up the tensile strength, because that was easy; most data sheets had it.

 

[Wxm88]

Cool. I am actually in need for some threading gears. Can you guys make some recommendation on what 3D printer to get? I don't know much about the 3D printer at all.

 

[Dave Paine]

Cool. I am actually in need for some threading gears. Can you guys make some recommendation on what 3D printer to get? I don't know much about the 3D printer at all.

I happen to have purchased a Creality CR10S printer this week. An updated model of the one MrPete222 has. It is easy to assemble and is working.

I am finding there is a lot of learning curve to how to tweak the settings in the slicing software. This software converts the STL CAD files into GCode for the printer. One part printed but back quality. I ran the same part through different slicer software and got an incomplete print, inside wall was not solid.

The 3D printers are often made in China, like mine. Instructions were minimal. The software on the SD card was corrupt, and likely is still be copied as corrupt.

Whatever printer you get, check for community forums before you purchase. You will get better support from such a forum more than the manufacturer.

I can see having a lot of fun with this once I get over the learning curve.

 

[Dave Paine]

I just came across on Thingiverse this for SB lathe, metric change gear.

It should be possible to scale this for e.g. a 10in lathe.

SB metric change gear for 9in lathe