If you need gears... Print them...

I think that makes sense. The plus side with a 3D printer is that there's no cost issue and very little effort required for making more, so the longevity issue becomes less of an issue. Obviously a gear stripping during a crucial threading operation would be a major issue, so time will tell how much warning one would get of failure.
 
There are many types of 3D printer filament. An inexpensive PLA reel of the typical 1.75mm dia is $15 - 20 / kg. I looked at some of the stronger materials, may have been some type of reinforced nylon and carbon fibre filled filament, cost of some products were $375/lb or about $875/kg.

Hence the cost may not be as cheap as desired, but can be cheaper than metal, just may not last as long.

I do like the concept of being able to make a replacement part, even if it does not last as long.

I am close to getting a 3D printer, just pondering which model.
 
Anyone want cast A356 change gears. My originals are good but I can print and cast too.
 
Fyi: PLA gets brittle and weak when exposed to moisture. Use ABS.
 
I would suggest Nylon, ABS, or PETG for gears. The filled types aren't really any stronger, they are more for looks. With the possible exception of the type that runs a continuous strand of carbon fiber though the part like the MarkForged.

Obviously, cutting steel gears out would be better. Casting from printed copies would probably be pretty good as well. I would see something like this as a standby while you get something better. They might hold up reasonably well if the torque loads are low enough, I have several printed gears that have a lot of runtime on them. I'm not sure how much force is really on these gears in that lathe. I know a lot of smaller import lathes use plastic gearing though.
 
Clif, What printer do you have?
Click to expand...

Several;

My first a Anet A6 is undergoing an almost complete rebuild, due to a mother board failure plus the normal upgrades most Chinese prusa i3 clones get. (Got it off Amazon)

The printer I used for this print was a Hictop Ender 2 (Got this one off ebay)

I would recommend this as a starter printer for most who are willing to do a relatively simple build. It took me less than an hour to put it together and get a print started, where as the Anet took over 8 hours. Be forwarned there is a learning curve here, just as with any new type of machine.

As far as material to use to print gears. PLA the easiest to print is the most brittle and weakest, however oil doesn't degrade it. ABS I would NOT recommend because of the problems with both warping and need to exhaust the fumes, PETG is better here, but Nylon is even better.

IF you want to learn a bit more four people with u-tube channels I could recommend are;

Thomas Sanladerer:

Makers Muse

3D Maker Noob

3D Printing Nerd

I know even more u-tube channels to waste time on, however most everything I know I learned from these people and a couple others.


One last thing, I am waiting for the Prusa MK3 from Prusa Research, because I want a better printer to work with, and Josef Prusa is the originator of the I3 design, the chinese are so fond of cloning. Should arrive at the end of the month.
 
BTW this is the future;

Iro3D desktop Metal 3D printer

It basically "prints" the sand and metal in a sort of open top mold that is fused in a furnace.
 
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clif said:
BTW this is the future;

Iro3D desktop Metal 3D printer

It basically "prints" the sand and metal in a sort of open top mold that is fused in a furnace.
Click to expand...
That's actually pretty clever. You'll still need a furnace to fire the crucible in and need final finish (like a lot of castings) but overall, I'd say it's a fairly novel approach.

With the right metal powder and a furnace that's hot enough, you'd certainly get your gears out of it.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
 
Most if not all Zamak alloys have a pretty low melting point, like just over 700 F. I've often wondered why nobody seems to be casting new gears out of it or some of the other more desirable parts for the Atlas machines.

Maybe not enough demand? Maybe still enough originals around to not make it worthwhile? I've not done any die casting specifically but have been involved with quite a few sand and / or lost wax casting, seems like Zamak would be a fair candidate for either of those processes on a small scale. Or is there a fundamental flaw in my thinking somewhere?

-frank
 
The zinc in the casting might be difficult to control in an open casting set up like we do in sand casting. Same reason I try to avoid casting brass, and use bronze instead if I can.

BTW for those with a Atlas 618/craftsman 6" or craftsman 109 lathe gears are here;

http://www.yeggi.com/q/atlas+618/
 
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