The top of the intake manifold is NOT something to use for a level! Better to use the engine oil pan flange or rocker cover as it is on the same plane as the output shaft of the trany.
Pierre
So from what I've read the manifold carb flange is angled to make the carb sit level. So by sitting the flange at zero the engine should be at -3.5 deg.
Just got back to this. Put the angle finder on the starter pad as Aukai suggested. -4.6 deg is the best I can get it to.
If I jack the back of the engine up any more the car starts raising up. At first I thought the trans was hitting the floor board, but I think the side engine mounts to the frame were welded in and such an angle (-7.5 deg) that engine rubber engine mounts that bolt onto the engine will only flex so much and them the car starts coming up. I'll play with it more and see if I can get that extra 1 deg on it. It won't take much.
I really wasn't planning on pulling the engine out, but if I have to I will..
I have the engine/trans out and am working on removing the old engine mounts and I see a 4 pin electrical connector on the trans with nothing hooked up to it. From what I can tell it's for the lockup torque converter. I read different things about is such as if its not locking up the trans will overheat and eventually burn the trans out. I see lock up kits from $49 to over $250. Some have just some wires, other have vacuum switches, pressure switches, and solenoids.
So leave it alone or tryto hook up the lockup feature? I don't have much info on the trans by the way.
I'm asking because I get way more knowledgeable people on here responding than I do on dedicated car sites I'm a part of.
My nova has 3 pedals but the cost of another T56 and swapping the 55 over to a manual was just too much. Believe me I want another LS3/T56 combo in the car, but the 350 is virtually brand new and spending another $10k on it replacing a perfectly good engine just doesn't make sense.
It's a cruiser for me and a automatic will be fine for it (for now)
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