I think this is my next project car

I'd thought about a temp sender that would ground out and turn on a relay, but I've had had extremely bad luck with them. Multiple times they juts stopped working on a hot day and left me stranded overheated. There are a number of types of controllers I've tried. I have one in my trailblazer ss with a ls2 in it and it's supposed to be adjustable but the adjusting screw doesn't do anything, but at least it's still working. I'm just wondering if the controller I linked to being bluetooth controlled the signal from my phone would reach it if mounted in the engine compartment, or I'd have to hold the phone close to it with the hood open to change the settings? I'd want to be able to change it while I'm moving to get it dialed in. The sheet metal on a 55 is a lot thicker than a modern car is and I'm not sure if a signal will reach the controller.

I've never had coil overs before. The setup that was given me is the complete front suspension with a arms, coil overs, drop spindles, sway bar, rotors and calipers. The coil overs are QA1 which I think are top of the line. I'm not sure why he got rid of them, but all it cost me was shipping. I sent him an amazon gift card to say thanks just because. He said he had a lot of people that wanted them, but he looked at who had been in the group the longest and contributed the most and I won at 22 years. Guess being an old fart pays off some times.

I'm going to have to figure out what spanner I need to adjust the coil overs.

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The OEM fan switches are much more reliable than aftermarket stuff. In the decade I was working the GM dealership parts counter, the fan switch was not a common item. They can go bad but usually not.
 
I have my fans on my ls3 nova controlled by the computer, and the computer is15 years old and still working perfectly, so I agree OEM is much more reliable. But is there an OEM switch I could use? And is there an adjustable OEM switch?

I like the one in my trailblazer for the fact that's it's pwm setup that varies the speed of the fans, but again the temp setting adjustment on it doesn't work. But it's been working for 6 years now and hasn't failed.
 
Never was an adjustable in the time I was there. What temperature are you looking for? Usually the GM switch is a 108C for the fans.
Here is one, use with relay. All it does is ground the relay to send power to the fans. This switch was the failsafe as usually the ECM would control the fan and also AC demand would turn on the fan automatically. Turns on in the 210-220F and off about 180F. Another is AC Delco 15-4315.
Pierre
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I'm not sure exactly where the temp runs on the engine. I've only driven the car about 2 miles and brought it home and ripped the wiring harness out. It was a fire waiting to happen. I guess I got scared my new car would go up in flames because when I was driving back to my shop there was a square body chevy pickup burning to the ground. I found out a short time later it was a wiring fire. So out my came my wire cutters and started cutting. I replaced the wiring with a new American autowire 19 circuit upgrade harness. I hate doing wiring with a blue passion, but had no choice. I'm mostly done with the wiring, just have lights on the right front fender and the fans to complete.

I just found this. It's adjustable. At $20 each I could buy 2 of them and install both but wire only one up, and set it up so if one fails I just unplug it and plug the backup one in. You might think that's overkill, but as I said I've lost so many fan controllers it not even funny. One on a 100 deg day my car overheated. Had to sit for an hour and wait for it to cool down. Drive about 2 miles and wait again. Took hours for me to get home that way. Really sucked.

 
Well as of today she's a runner again. Not a driver yet though. Things went pretty well, had a fuel leak from a flare fitting on the fuel pump, got that fixed. My neutral safety switch works well. My speedometer, oil pressure, volt meter, engine temp gauges all work. Tach and fuel level doesn't.......yet. I've got all gears in the trans with the new column shift steering column. Got the trans cooler moved in front of the radiator and out of the engine compartment. I used AN6 lines to plumb it. I need to get the fans on the radiator and cooler wire up wired up. Alternator isn't hooked up yet, I thought I had the correct plug for it but don't. I'll get that ordered Monday. Need to get the right fender on and run the wires and relays for the fans and lights through the conduit I used to hide the wiring.

Bad news is 3rd member is toast. Sounds like it's going to fly apart. I kind of expected it was bad, was an old 3rd member I've had kicking around for 20 years now. I put a track loc in it and hoped it would be ok. Speedway has one with a nodular case, upgraded bearing support, and a trac loc for $890. shipped I'm going to see if they can put a 1330 yoke on it when they build it. I'll order that on Monday also

So not a bad day today. I wish all "car" days went this well ;)

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Ford 9 Inch Posi Differential 3rd Member, 28 Spl, 3.70 Gear Ratio

As featured on Classic Truck’s Week to Wicked. Watch the transformation here! Assembled by Professionals Hand-assembled by trained experts in-house, our Ford 9-inch third members are built from quality components with an exact step-by-step process. We bring this combination of precision assembly...
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Ive been doing more research on the speedway 3rd member and in the reviews a couple of people talk about the length of the diff is longer because of the thick case and this shoves the drive shaft into the back of the trans another 1/2". I just put the car on blocks and checked and there is no way I can shove the yoke in that much more.

In comparing yokes the long wide yoke overall is listed at 5.090. The short wide is 4.03. So now the question is can I pull the yoke out 1/2" without any problems. I just had a new drive shaft built. I don't want to have to shorten it.

I'll verify tomorrow about the added length of the 3rd member. I hope it isn't any longer.
 
alloy said:
In comparing yokes the long wide yoke overall is listed at 5.090. The short wide is 4.03. So now the question is can I pull the yoke out 1/2" without any problems. I just had a new drive shaft built. I don't want to have to shorten it.
Click to expand...

It's a leaf-sprung car, if you don't want to cut your new drive shaft, you can surely find a 1/2 inch between your springs and perch. The minute shift in axle will solve the driveline crisis without really affecting anything else.
 
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