I need to make a 6 sheave pulley

What do you think? That one is 20mm bore. Other bore sizes available. Don't you need a motor also? Get one with a metric shaft or re-bore.

$35 + Tax on eBay

I think that's how I'd "make" it.

Wanna race?
 
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Oh man,
You guys are really awesome.
Oh, by the way, I counted wrong.
It’s a 5 sheave pulley.
That looks like the father to the one I have..
Luke I am your father...
they are close but alas only 4 sheaves. 5/8 shaft w/ key.
 
Oh man,
You guys are really awesome.
Oh, by the way, I counted wrong.
It’s a 5 sheave pulley.
Looking at your photos, @kcoffield is absolutely right - you can't come in this direction using the compound - there isn't enough clearance:

screenshot_5211.jpg

You could hog out most of of the V-groove material using a parting tool, then cut the right side taper with a parting tool using the compound, then use a form tool to just cut the angled taper on the left side.

This is turning into a lot of work. Maybe Mark has the better idea of farming it out JK Pulley Manufacturing Co. LOL


 
There are a number of manufactures of 5-step pulleys, might be close enough and should be straight forward boring the center to size and putting in a key slot. The ones on Amazon look like junk, the one below is 6" and looks quite substantial may be worth calling around or google "5-step" Pulley -amazon. I had thought you needed 6 V groves all the same and were driving some massive power.
 
Looking at your photos, @kcoffield is absolutely right - you can't come in this direction using the compound - there isn't enough clearance:
I actually was able to use the compound for both angle cuts, just not with a parting tool, and I had to get a little creative with the QCTP mounting. Here's a link directly to the machining part of that thread.....lots of photos. Keep in mind that's a 12" Atlas lathe machining that big pulley, so a bit risky but with the soft material and patience, success!


Best,
Kelly
 
I'm wondering why you want to do it in cast iron? Is the spindle pully CI?

Besides the mess and general "harder to work than aluminum" issue, my concern is that dimensional concentricity does not guarantee it will be dynamically balanced. Even at 1750 motor RPM it could be unpleasant. I'd have to have a very good reason to choose CI over aluminum (for reduced mass). If you have access to inexpensive balancing, no sweat. It cost me $150 to have an 8 or 9", 2 sheave iron pully balanced a couple of years ago.

I didn't have any real arguments against the procedure you outlined in the OP except I'm not clear how you are going to apply the rotational force to the workpiece. You mention an arbor. If there is a dog to drive the arbor, how is the workpiece secured to the arbor? Also, I think I would cut the larger diameter grooves before the smaller (make it easier as you go).

If I had the workpiece held in a chuck (3, 4 or 6 jaw) I sure as he11 would use a push plate or center in the tailstock.

Edit: I don't know your equipment, What lathe are you planning to use?
I think you're right. Aluminum would be much better.
Clausing Colchester 15X50-No problem
 
There are a number of manufactures of 5-step pulleys, might be close enough and should be straight forward boring the center to size and putting in a key slot. The ones on Amazon look like junk, the one below is 6" and looks quite substantial may be worth calling around or google "5-step" Pulley -amazon. I had thought you needed 6 V groves all the same and were driving some massive power.
I may just buy one. I wasn't able to find one but I did more research this morning. Yep, you found it too.
Thanks
 
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