How to cut a slot inside a C-channel side?

[Parlo]

How long is the channel ( the length of the slot ) we have 1/2" wide x 0.010" deep so far.
Do you have a milling machine?

 

[RaisedByWolves]

Curious as to the end use of this part.

Taking an accurate .010 cut on an extruded part without having it tied Down, and indicated in seems like an exercise in frustration

 

[brino]

the router can be run against the inside faces of the channel and not be pinched between a fence and the workpiece (I never like that).

Instead, put the fence against the opposite leg of the channel and back up the other leg (being cut) with a hand held 2x4 to minimize deflection.
You should be holding (manually) the workpiece against the cutter. Do not trap the workpiece between the fence and the cutter. The workpiece (at a minimum) will loose that fight.

Good call guys. Pinching the workpiece between a cutter and a fence is always a recipe for kick-back.

....and @extropic you are right about possible flex in those thin sides. I could see not getting a cut and adjusting to cut deeper, and then eventually have the cutter come thru the the side unexpectedly. I sure would not want to be holding it by hand when that happens.

Brian

 

[brino]

How long is the channel ( the length of the slot ) we have 1/2" wide x 0.010" deep so far.
Do you have a milling machine?

@Parlo he said five feet long and no milling machine.

Brian

 

[Eddyde]

Little bit of confusion, the description says the piece is 5' (Feet) long but the drawing shows 5" (Inches)? That's a major factor in how to approach this.

In any case, as others have said, I would not pinch the work between the cutting tool and the fence.

This is how I would do it:

 

[dml66]

The part is 5" long.

 

[dml66]

Little bit of confusion, the description says the piece is 5' (Feet) long but the drawing shows 5" (Inches)? That's a major factor in how to approach this.

In any case, as others have said, I would not pinch the work between the cutting tool and the fence.

This is how I would do it:

OK, that looks good, and a lot more safe. I've got two feather boards for the router table in hand, I'll run a test piece later today.

 

[Eddyde]

This pretty short, I'd consider making the part longer then it cutting to length.

 

[Firstram]

Little bit of confusion, the description says the piece is 5' (Feet) long but the drawing shows 5" (Inches)? That's a major factor in how to approach this.

In any case, as others have said, I would not pinch the work between the cutting tool and the fence.

This is how I would do it:

View attachment 506957

This is the way!

 

[Chewy]

Question, do you have a drill press or access to one. If you do, i would make a HSS bit shaped like a straight cutting tool. You could use a drill bit or piece of tool steel. You will need to put a little bit of clearance in the back side so it doesn't rub. Set some guides up for parallel. Lock the quill someway to keep from turning and use the drill press as a vertical shaper. It goes without saying to unplug the drill press. You pull down and shave some metal away,then put a feeler gauge a couple o thousands between the guide and metal. Repeat. Since you are doing aluminum, this won't be hard. Think of broaching. You make a cut and then put a spacer in the guide to increase the depth of cut. Here you put it between the metal and the guide. The main advantage is that there are no spinning cutters to catch and throw the piece or get you.