Help me understand what to do next, bicycle shifter woes

[Nesse1]

as others have said, I wouldn't worry about replacing the outers (black parts) right now, it's unlikely they need it after only 3k. You shouldn't need to replace the tape either, at least not to change the inner cable. I'm pretty free at the weekends, so that would work. In fact I just ordered the mtb equivalent of that set after I posted the link so that's probably what I'll be doing

Nesse1 - you're right, it might be something else, but these road bike shifters are known for fraying their cables due to the tight bend they make from the bit that holds the cable end to the housing that goes under the bar tape. In fact when I went into the bike shop to get a new inner after mine snapped the manager said "oh yeah, they all do that, don't leave it so long next time". Personally I also wouldn't spray WD40 in there either as I wouldn't want to wash out any grease from where its supposed to be or wash gunk into places where it shouldn't. These shifters really don't need maintenance, even the most basic Deore level ones last forever as long as you're not dunking them in the sea every ride.

As I said before, MY bike shifters stick due to gummy grease if I leave the bike sit for a year or so. I have more than one bike. And WD-40 frees them up. Call it last resort if you want, but if the shifter won't move, do you have a better alternative?

 

[Hawkeye]

Have you confirmed that the cable is moving freely through the cable sheath(s)? Old lubricant might have solidified, slowing or stopping movement. Again, hit it with WD40 and see if it loosens up.

 

[LEEQ]

Don't hate on me too bad, but let me pose the question " what happens to old WD-40? " Let me also answer that question. It draws every speck of gunk for miles and then dries up. It's a great way to glue mechanisms together. I have "fixed" more than one gun for more than one friend by simply dissolving the old WD and giving the action a proper clean and lube. If one were to use a solvent to free up dried up gunk, they could then use a drying lube that won't collect gunk to add some slick to the situation.

 

[LEEQ]

I might also add Dad's proven methodology. Pay the bike shop for the ridiculously expensive repair with no questions, and order a new bicycle while you're there. I mean really, do you want to be caught riding last year's bicycle anyway?

 

[stupoty]

as others have said, I wouldn't worry about replacing the outers (black parts) right now, it's unlikely they need it after only 3k. You shouldn't need to replace the tape either, at least not to change the inner cable. I'm pretty free at the weekends, so that would work. In fact I just ordered the mtb equivalent of that set after I posted the link so that's probably what I'll be doing

Nesse1 - you're right, it might be something else, but these road bike shifters are known for fraying their cables due to the tight bend they make from the bit that holds the cable end to the housing that goes under the bar tape. In fact when I went into the bike shop to get a new inner after mine snapped the manager said "oh yeah, they all do that, don't leave it so long next time". Personally I also wouldn't spray WD40 in there either as I wouldn't want to wash out any grease from where its supposed to be or wash gunk into places where it shouldn't. These shifters really don't need maintenance, even the most basic Deore level ones last forever as long as you're not dunking them in the sea every ride.

The shifter would give some notice it's about to brake or ware out.

Most likely the grease has gone hard and you need to wash it out and re lube the shifter.

Good idea to also change the inner cable.

Dribble oil or use a spray oil / grease to get some into the outer sheath.

The shifter mechanism will like being cleaned and lubed.

Stu

This guys doing the basic stuff.

 

[stupoty]

I might also add Dad's proven methodology. Pay the bike shop for the ridiculously expensive repair with no questions, and order a new bicycle while you're there. I mean really, do you want to be caught riding last year's bicycle anyway?

Bro how can you not have a spare bike to get on ?



(Sorry I'm half joking)

Stu

 

[ddickey]

Looks like there is a Specialized sitting next to the Trek.
Do what I said to confirm the shifter is working. By putting more tension on the cable than the derailleur springs can that should confirm the shifter is okay.
Take it to Freewheel and get a free estimate. You might be surprised.
If you decide to change out cable and housing on your own do not put any oil or grease on the cable, this will just attract dirt.

 

[Nesse1]

If you decide to change out cable and housing on your own do not put any oil or grease on the cable, this will just attract dirt.

Actually, STI shifter housing comes with grease inside from Shimano. With the older kit like the OP uses, 10 speed Ultegra, the shifter housing pieces are imprinted "SHIMANO" on one end of the cable, the side where the grease is injected, so you are supposed to install the inner cable into this end first, and when you pull the wire though, it pulls the grease further through the housing. And if you have to shorten the housing, it's important to cut the end without the SHIMANO label.

And each year, when servicing my bikes, I always remove the inner cable wire, and grease them before reinstall.

 

[WobblyHand]

Looks like there is a Specialized sitting next to the Trek.
Do what I said to confirm the shifter is working. By putting more tension on the cable than the derailleur springs can that should confirm the shifter is okay.
Take it to Freewheel and get a free estimate. You might be surprised.
If you decide to change out cable and housing on your own do not put any oil or grease on the cable, this will just attract dirt.

The Specialized is my wife's bike. It's newer by a couple of years. It seems to be ok.

I've ordered a new set of cables since they were under $20. They can be spares. I'll take the bike to Freewheel this morning, worst that can happen is he won't work on it. Even if he doesn't, maybe he can recommend something to try.

The derailleur seems to work correctly but might need minor adjustments. The shifter is not consistent, either the grease is hard, or the plastic bits are worn. I was getting up shifts when requesting down, then another try gave me a down. Definitely needs a clean out, if possible.

 

[Nesse1]

Sounds like a plan. Just realize, bike shops are in the business to make money, and selling you new shifters makes them more money than spraying the guts down with WD-40 does.

If you decide to get new shifters, please collect the old ones back and ship them to me. I'll pay. I'd love a new project, and I have never taken one apart...but it's time for me to learn. My similar Dura Ace shifters are low mileage, but sticky, so it would be great to know how to take apart those 10 speed vintage STIs for servicing.