Help with an Enco 92030 that won't turn off

Safety tip: Don't ever push both test buttons on the contactors at the same time; you'll put a direct short across the power line and
possibly cause an explosion
Be safe, always shut off power before working
 
That requires a bit of planning and research first- I wouldn't just jump right in and start buying stuff

On the apron lever microswitches something looks fishy there regarding the actuator cam(s), I see what looks like
a socket head screw in place of a cam and the switch lever has a roller tip which may not be original
I would check that out carefully
 
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markba633csi said:
We should disconnect one section at a time until it stops turning on by itself. Unplug the machine or turn off breaker for each step:
Test #1:
Disconnect the wires to the apron lever reversing microswitches. I think there are 3 or 4 wires. Remember where they go, and/or take a photo.
Power it up and see if it starts by itself. No means a switch problem or adjustment issue. If it still does put the wires back and do test #2

Test #2:
Disconnect one of the wires to the start button, re-power. Does it still start by itself? No means the button is shorted.
Yes means one of the contactors must be faulty, do test #3

Test #3:
Unplug machine. Disconnect the 3 motor wires and tape them. Plug machine back in, do you hear a clack from one of the contactors
or is it silent? If you hear a clack then there is still a wiring problem. If silent the forward contactor is broken/jammed shut and both of
them should be replaced
Click to expand...
I've had a lot going on as I am sure we all have.
I finally got a chance to do these tests^^^ as suggested and the only one that it failed was the contactor test #3.

SO now the question becomes how do I replace the contractors. I searched the internets for the part number and it seems to be no longer available. Do I need to find one with the same number of wires in and out? I do have a friend who is more electronically minded than I am to help, but I don't think he knows where to source contractors that will work either.
 
At this point I would suggest wiring up a drum switch and bypassing all that contactor stuff
You are looking at a difficult restoration with the lack of space I see there
 
markba633csi said:
At this point I would suggest wiring up a drum switch and bypassing all that contactor stuff
You are looking at a difficult restoration with the lack of space I see there
Click to expand...
Yeah, there is not much space in there.

OK, I googled a drum switch and I can see how that would work instead of the contractors (I'm still learning about all this).

Do you have a recommendation for which one to use. Also I assume the drum switch will allow forward and reverse? Thanks!
 
Yes you would have forward and reverse- I can give you some links for drum switch choices- give an hour or so I have some hungry cats circling for the kill

Can you get a clear picture of your motor data plate?

OK here is one type that would work: --- you need a 6-pole, 12 terminal, 3 position switch
Here is a connection diagram: --- (Tung Hsing motor numbering slightly different)
Bao240vTH.jpeg
 
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You can also find essentially the same switch in an enclosure for a little more:


These two are economy types. The more expensive types like Furnas or Dayton below would last longer- I don't know what your budget is
 
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markba633csi said:
Yes you would have forward and reverse- I can give you some links for drum switch choices- give an hour or so I have some hungry cats circling for the kill

Can you get a clear picture of your motor data plate?
Click to expand...
Mark,

Here's what I could grab tonight. Im pretty sure the motor and wiring are from the factory...but what do I know!?!?

IMG_4863.jpg



Kinda hard to see the back. I assume that's wiring for the 110v vs 220v?
IMG_4862.jpg


Thanks again for your help!
 

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