Got My First Lathe... Logan 1875 - With Restoration.

[Bob Korves]

Hi Bob.. Ill be spraying Oil without additional hardeners hopefully today, so 20 minutes sounds sooo much better Wish me Luck..

Wrapping a solvent soaked rag around the spray nozzle, followed by a plastic bag or similar, between spraying, would probably help to keep things from drying up.

 

[dlane]

I had that set of spray guns , after three uses they leaked from the trigger and everywhere else thay could leak, into the trash they went . Hopefully they have better seals nowadays

 

[mikey]

I stopped back at PPG and got my paint & supplies, while there I asked about the 50/50 Phosphoric Acid & water trick... Same guy I talked to before, He said he's not heard of that trick.

I think I'm going to give this a shot too thou, I have allot of parts left to do electrolysis on, when I say allot, I mean the whole lathe still - minus the bed.. so I have plenty of time to put the trick to use..
Please give me the safety of use run down... I'm guessing use a small spray bottle, Gloves, Eye protection and spray away from your self over an area where runoff will have little or no effect like a lawn.

Thanks Mike.

I have a spray bottle with diluted "The Must for Rust", which is just the brand of Phosphoric Acid that I prefer, diluted with water in a 50:50 ratio. Once the part comes out of the ERR bath, I scrub it down with a medium grit Scotchbrite pad and I keep it wet until I get all the scum and paint off and then do a final rinse. I let the bulk of the water run off and then spray the part down with the diluted PA mix and set it aside to dry. This leaves a whitish layer on the part that prevents any rusting and it will last for months or even years if left undisturbed. I have an Emmert 4A machinist vise that I did this to about a decade ago and its sitting in a box until I get around to painting it - zero rust.

When I'm ready to prime, I wipe the part down with a rag lightly moistened with the same diluted mix and this dries in seconds. Then I spray on the primer and paint as usual. Sometimes I don't even bother wiping it; I just prime right on top of it, which is what the manufacturer recommends.

You should use the normal precautions you would take when working with any acid, even though Phosphoric Acid as supplied for this application is pretty weak. I use a respirator mask with cartridges, safety glasses and neoprene gloves and rubber boots when working with any acid but I admit that I've had to casually spray a little on a part and done it with no protection at all and had no issues; I do not recommend you do stupid things like this, though. Read the manufacturer's instructions and you'll be fine.

I've been using this method for a very long time. I've done very small parts to anvils to entire lawnmowers and never had any issues with the paint, nor have I had anything rust if the paint is not damaged. This stuff just works.

Over 40 years ago, I asked an auto body guy what they used to prep bare metal before painting their custom paint jobs. These guys did beautiful work on show cars. He told me they used Jasco Metal Etch, which turned out to be Phosphoric Acid. So, nothing new here, Mike.

 

[Mr Mike]

I had that set of spray guns , after three uses they leaked from the trigger and everywhere else thay could leak, into the trash they went . Hopefully they have better seals nowadays

Hello dlane.
I've had issues like that in the past, all you can do is tighten the packing nut some, if that don't work then ya in the trash it goes.. Personally I think it should be federal law for 10 years after a product hits the market that repair parts be available for easily repaired items, we seriously need to stop this everything is disposable mentality, fortunately I have some backup Spray guns that I can use In a pinch if things go south.. Who knows I may have a good experience with theses guns.

 

[Mr Mike]

I have a spray bottle with diluted "The Must for Rust", which is just the brand of Phosphoric Acid that I prefer, diluted with water in a 50:50 ratio. Once the part comes out of the ERR bath, I scrub it down with a medium grit Scotchbrite pad and I keep it wet until I get all the scum and paint off and then do a final rinse. I let the bulk of the water run off and then spray the part down with the diluted PA mix and set it aside to dry. This leaves a whitish layer on the part that prevents any rusting and it will last for months or even years if left undisturbed. I have an Emmert 4A machinist vise that I did this to about a decade ago and its sitting in a box until I get around to painting it - zero rust.

When I'm ready to prime, I wipe the part down with a rag lightly moistened with the same diluted mix and this dries in seconds. Then I spray on the primer and paint as usual. Sometimes I don't even bother wiping it; I just prime right on top of it, which is what the manufacturer recommends.

You should use the normal precautions you would take when working with any acid, even though Phosphoric Acid as supplied for this application is pretty weak. I use a respirator mask with cartridges, safety glasses and neoprene gloves and rubber boots when working with any acid but I admit that I've had to casually spray a little on a part and done it with no protection at all and had no issues; I do not recommend you do stupid things like this, though. Read the manufacturer's instructions and you'll be fine.

I've been using this method for a very long time. I've done very small parts to anvils to entire lawnmowers and never had any issues with the paint, nor have I had anything rust if the paint is not damaged. This stuff just works.

Over 40 years ago, I asked an auto body guy what they used to prep bare metal before painting their custom paint jobs. These guys did beautiful work on show cars. He told me they used Jasco Metal Etch, which turned out to be Phosphoric Acid. So, nothing new here, Mike.

Thanks for the info Mike.

I tried to look it up and there are lots of products that have Must For Rust - Krudd Cutter being one... could you shoot me a link to one you use please so I can get some ordered..
Thanks for your help - Love learning new things.

 

[mikey]

Thanks for the info Mike.

I tried to look it up and there are lots of products that have Must For Rust - Krudd Cutter being one... could you shoot me a link to one you use please so I can get some ordered..
Thanks for your help - Love learning new things.

Yup, Krud Cutter makes the one I use. You should be able to get it at your local hardware store. They sell it in liquid and gel form and both work really well. You can use it to remove the mill scale on mild steel, too.

 

[Mr Mike]

Wrapping a solvent soaked rag around the spray nozzle, followed by a plastic bag or similar, between spraying, would probably help to keep things from drying up.

I do that with water based products, I fill a cup with water and keep the spray head submerged then when ready I pull the handle enough to start the air flow to blow out the Air Passages and wipe it off and keep on spraying, ill try that with this oil stuff and see if it works.. good thinking..! Thanks for reminding me Bob.

 

[Mr Mike]

Things didn't go as fast as I would have liked today, I had to run and get supplies I thought I had on hand like.. Common clean up stuff and my pop up canopy for shade.
After I got that handled I started prepping the bed by wiping it down with acetone to remove any remaining oils - so the tape and primer will adhere well. Finally about 1:30 pm I started tapping which took me over two hours to properly tape off and get ready for primer. The truck races started at 5:00 pm so I had to wait till after we got home to prime it..



Man, thought taping this bed off would be a breeze - Nope my age is beginning to show..
One of the things that I'm thrilled about is how nice the ways came out with the extra effort, It helps encourage me to do the best job I can.


Two coats of primer completed, Tomorrow I will lightly sand then re-prime and paint. The center of the bed will be a dark gray matching the
stand and chip tray and a low sheen white for the rest of the bed. If all goes well I should have the Bed and supports done tomorrow.

 

[mikey]

She looks great, Mike! The ways look awesome, too. It has been very cool to watch as you learn and experiment with this project. That's what I love about this hobby - it helps us to learn and grow. When a hobby machinist says, "I can do that", he very likely can.

 

[Mr Mike]

She looks great, Mike! The ways look awesome, too. It has been very cool to watch as you learn and experiment with this project. That's what I love about this hobby - it helps us to learn and grow. When a hobby machinist says, "I can do that", he very likely can.

Hey Mikey.

Well its certainly nice having allot of folks around with cool tricks up there sleeves... I definitely appreciate all the help I'm getting from You, Bob, La, Glen and everyone thats for sure. Thank you for sharing your knowledge..!