Goofs & Blunders You Should Avoid.

I believe the red can is a Chlorinated Brake Cleaner, stuff is bad news all the way around.
You can still buy chlorinated brake cleaner?
We haven’t had it in over fifteen years.
Our brake cleaner in a can is 90% acetone and alcohol.
I would buy three 55 gallon drums of brake clean from a Utah distributor. This order would be enough for them to split the freight. It was hexane and alcohol. We used the one shot.
I was supposed to dilute it with 90% acetone but I always forgot. :)
A shop needs a way to clean parts during repairs. The surfaces can’t have a residue.
Acetone evaporates way too fast and it eats/melts everything.

I’m retired now
 
You can still buy chlorinated brake cleaner?
We haven’t had it in over fifteen years.
Our brake cleaner in a can is 90% acetone and alcohol.
I would buy three 55 gallon drums of brake clean from a Utah distributor. This order would be enough for them to split the freight. It was hexane and alcohol. We used the one shot.
I was supposed to dilute it with 90% acetone but I always forgot. :)
A shop needs a way to clean parts during repairs. The surfaces can’t have a residue.
Acetone evaporates way too fast and it eats/melts everything.

I’m retired now
Yes. The CRC brake cleaner in the red cans is chlorinated. The stuff in the green cans is not.

Here's the MSDS for the red-can stuff, noting that the active ingredient is tetrachloroethylene:


The stuff in the green cans contains acetone and toluene as solvents, and is flammable:


Sometimes being flammable is a worse problem than being chlorinated--the chlorinated stuff is non-flammable. But the chlorinated agent becomes poisonous when burned, such as the residue still sitting on steel when it is being welded.

Rick "uses both, and is careful with both" Denney
 
You can still buy chlorinated brake cleaner?
We haven’t had it in over fifteen years.
Our brake cleaner in a can is 90% acetone and alcohol.
I would buy three 55 gallon drums of brake clean from a Utah distributor. This order would be enough for them to split the freight. It was hexane and alcohol. We used the one shot.
I was supposed to dilute it with 90% acetone but I always forgot. :)
A shop needs a way to clean parts during repairs. The surfaces can’t have a residue.
Acetone evaporates way too fast and it eats/melts everything.

I’m retired now
you're in Ca... everything is banned there. Denatured Alc Unbelievable.
 
I was a dumb **** today.
Was refinishing an 11 drawer cabinet that I will use, and then give to my son, or he'll inherit it. I'm painting it in the colors he wants..
Well, it was mounted on a 1/2 wood platform with the wheels attached to it. So.. off that goes, and I use some angle from a bed railing to make a new mobile base. Well, I had to cut the rivets off, and instead of making another trip to the basement to get my drift, I used a small in length pin I had lying around. Should have gone and gotten a proper drift. The short length wound up pulling my finger into the hole with the drift acting like an anvil on a paper punch... It was a gusher. I shoulda known, that shortcut was a bad one. I need another set of drifts for the garage, or sacrifice one from the set. DOH! needed a styptic stick because there was nothing to glue, it just remove it.
 
I have an import sensitive drill chuck. Works OK, but I find I can work better just by sight. Bring the drill down carefully, peck to get a start, then watch for chips and clear as they develop. After a few pecks you're deep enough that you can't watch for chips, but by then you should have the rhythm and pressure down.

GsT
I bought one of the sensitive drills about twenty years ago. I disassembled it and just use the arbor and Jacobs size 0 chuck. The problem with the design is you can't gauge the depth of the drilled hole accurately. I too, drill by visually observing the progress, using the fine feed on the mill. I have drilled holes as small as .007" in diameter in 304 stainless in this manner.
 
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