A little cleanup is all that’s in the plans for the near future. The battleship’s guns have to be finished soon. While I’m just a volunteer, the project is relying on all the help that’s available. I would like nothing better than a full disassembly, cleanup and showroom new paint, having a functional machine is more important for now. This machine has enough Y axis movement that I can now complete some pieces in one setup that took four setups on the round column mill. That’s going to save lots of time.
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Found an Index 645
- Thread starter David2011
- Start date
Are there any buzz words/features to watch for or specific brands to consider or is this pretty much generic capability?
- Joined
- Jan 2, 2019
- Messages
- 7,179
Read what Mark Jacobs @mksj posts here. I think the 645 is a pretty simple machine, just fwd/rev and maybe a power feed on the x axis?
If you have an original controls cabinet with contactors and the like you can pretty much remove that stuff and place the VFD there. I've used nice ones (TECO) and generic Chinese ones and both work for me but YMMV.
John
- Joined
- Aug 6, 2015
- Messages
- 4,234
I went with the TECO L510 for mine. Several recommendations made when I was looking for one. This one was in stock and found several videos that made it easier to configure...
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Wells-Index 847 Milling Machine - Ownership Thread
Took a few days off work to see if I can get these tasks finished... So I will reuse the housing of the stock switch... but only as a terminal block to hold the wires from the motor and those that go from there to the VFD... I will remove the handle to the switch. Because I do not want to move...
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More fun stuff. I cracked the ram screws loose and after one good tug the ram broke loose and moved both directions easily even though it was bone dry. Put some way oil in the one shot pump and it works. Unfortunately there’s a leak inside the knee but I did see oil seep out of the X axis way. The manual down feed wasn’t engaging so I disassembled that area. The spindle direction reversing shaft was stuck with rock hard grease. The knob for direction selection is missing so I’ll make a brass one for a little bling. It’s moving now but not clicking into all three positions yet. The manual hand wheel feed is now working though. The automatic downfeed disconnect is missing so I’ll have to buy or make one if I decide that’s an important function. The directions aren’t very good for showing/explaining the minutiae. I’ll probably be posting plenty of questions as work proceeds. After running Bridgeport and its clones and my Jet-16 for 15 years I suddenly feel like I have no idea how to run a mill. I’m not in a rush to apply power. I want all of the manual control detents to work like new first. That doesn’t seem like much of a stretch at this point.
Thanks for the advise on VFDs. The TECOs were more than I wanted to spend so I went with Automation Direct. They were very helpful. The model I ordered for the main motor is the GS21-21P0 which the technical advisor assured me was adequate based on the motor's data plate amp draw of only 3.71A. I also ordered a braking resistor and an extension cable for the control panel as the VFDs will be mounted in the location originally occupied by the contactor box which was removed long ago. I'll eventually get another VFD for the table drive. The VFD was $168.00 before adding the resistor and cable; about $225 total with free 2 day shipping.
Since most of the instructions and videos show momentary contact switches for the controls I asked if I could use the machine's original drum switches both for the original appearance and the feel/intuitive operation. Yes, they said it's acceptable to use constant contact switches.
Since most of the instructions and videos show momentary contact switches for the controls I asked if I could use the machine's original drum switches both for the original appearance and the feel/intuitive operation. Yes, they said it's acceptable to use constant contact switches.
Downfeed Gearbox Disassembly
Does anyone know how to disassemble the "Shaft - Bevel Gear Feed," p/n 4425-A? It needs to come out so I can clean all of the ancient grease from the feed direction selection parts. I can't see any pins or other obvious fasteners at this point. I would also like to get it out of the way to remove the remaining petrifying grease.
Does anyone know how to disassemble the "Shaft - Bevel Gear Feed," p/n 4425-A? It needs to come out so I can clean all of the ancient grease from the feed direction selection parts. I can't see any pins or other obvious fasteners at this point. I would also like to get it out of the way to remove the remaining petrifying grease.
I've been using brake cleaner but it's not going deep enough inside the bevel gear shaft to get all of the old grease out. Brake cleaner works but it's not the best solvent for this grease. I tried mineral spirits and it was more effective on this mixture. It has become very sticky. The small threaded shaft on the right edge of the bottom photo runs almost the entire length of the larger shaft and slides in and out along the centerline. The enclosed area is about 7"-8" long so "spraying and hoping" isn't working out all that well.
When I got the machine the feed shaft could only be moved in/out by pulling on it with a wrench under the makeshift knob and tapped in with a lightweight hammer. It now moves fairly easily but the action is dampened by the thick, old grease. There is also a lot of old grease behind the shaft that needs to come out. Most but not all of it can be gotten out with the shaft in place. I'm reluctant to put new clean grease in on top of any old residue. Possibly as much as 3/4 pound of old grease has already been removed. It was a mess.
Oops! Three hours later . . . Typed the response and didn't post it. Again.
I didn't get the up/down parts of the assembly as clean as I had hoped but they're good enough to use and 'bout a gazillion times better than they were. After messing with it for about 2 hours I got it to the point that I could barely feel the detents. This mechanism has an incredibly sensitive tactile feel to be on such a large machine. It's kind of like the detents on a nice watch stem when it's pulled out to set the date; not at all like the detents on the gear head of a lathe. The sticky old grease makes it hard to feel the detents.
When I got the machine the feed shaft could only be moved in/out by pulling on it with a wrench under the makeshift knob and tapped in with a lightweight hammer. It now moves fairly easily but the action is dampened by the thick, old grease. There is also a lot of old grease behind the shaft that needs to come out. Most but not all of it can be gotten out with the shaft in place. I'm reluctant to put new clean grease in on top of any old residue. Possibly as much as 3/4 pound of old grease has already been removed. It was a mess.
Oops! Three hours later . . . Typed the response and didn't post it. Again.
I didn't get the up/down parts of the assembly as clean as I had hoped but they're good enough to use and 'bout a gazillion times better than they were. After messing with it for about 2 hours I got it to the point that I could barely feel the detents. This mechanism has an incredibly sensitive tactile feel to be on such a large machine. It's kind of like the detents on a nice watch stem when it's pulled out to set the date; not at all like the detents on the gear head of a lathe. The sticky old grease makes it hard to feel the detents.
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