For lathe, M-DRO or DRO PROS?

The cross slide is plugged into the X axis, the long axis needs to be plugged into the Z0/Y axis, not the Z/Z1. You need to se the proper scale resolution and the DRO type to lathe. Should not need to do anything more. I generally leave the cross slide in diameter mode and it should change the number color and indicate diameter mode.You can also specify the direction of each axis.
 
oops, got that wrong, was just a guess. thanks for the tips again. I got the 1 UM cross slide scale and 5 UM carriage scale, as suggested. assume the resolution for each is set separately.
 
everything went well. to zero out the Z axis I have to push the Yo button, not the Zo button. seems odd but I guess it's normal for a non lathe specific DRO? I have the colors on black background with white letters for now. do you find other colors work better?

now that I walked back to the house from the shop, it just occurred to me that I didn't see a parameter for setting diameter vs radius when I was doing set up. maybe it's just a button. will check after lunch.

thanks again for all your help with this.
 
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The Y input/axis becomes Z in lathe mode, so the Y0 sets it to zero. I use all three axis so the pretty logical that the the zero for each axis matches the keys (not necessarily the display). If you had a compound scale then you could sum the Z and Z1 axis or operate them independently. I use the 3rd axis for the tailstock which is more frequently used. Much easier then counting revolutions with the mechanical dial. I have checked the accuracy linearity of the magnetic scales and they track perfectly with the dial and gauge blocks over the full travel. Just double check that the scales track with your dials, the magnetic scales should be more accurate.

Diameter is just a button on the display R/D and it remembers the setting. Should change the color and show a little circle with a line through it. I find the white on black and the diameter in yellow to work the best for my eyes. Glad you have it mounted and running, should make turning much easier once you get use to it.
 
thanks. I've had the little Igaging DRO's on my mill the last 3 years, planning to change them out for a real DRO soon. will take one of them and adapt it to the tailstock on my lathe. should work fine for me. for what I've done in the past I haven't seen a need for a DRO on the compound yet, but since I'll be taking 3 of the Igaging units off the mill I can use one for the compound if I need it, I guess.
 
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