You don’t have any issues with the 1/3rd? There are a ton of those locally for dirt cheap. For more of a drive I can get a 1/2 horse. Or I can go against my nature and wait til one pops up locally.
When new these did not come with a motor, that was an additional cost. The recommended size was 1/3 to 1/2hp which sounds small today with some smaller lathes coming with 1hp motors, but that was typical of the era that these were made.
Keep in mind the Atlas lathes were light duty lathes, more like a big 9" lathe. If a 1/3hp is easier to find, you are probably fine starting with that. If you find it under powered you can always upgrade later.
A lot of folks would salvage motors from old washing machines. Selling without a motor was a good way to get the price low enough for the common man, plus you didn’t have to account for different power standards.
A lot of folks would salvage motors from old washing machines. Selling without a motor was a good way to get the price low enough for the common man, plus you didn’t have to account for different power standards.
Yes, motors have gotten much cheaper compared to the past. Looking through old Sears catalogs, it becomes obvious why they at one time sold kits so you could set up a workshop with multiple machines on one motor. On a less expensive machine like a bandsaw or drill press a motor could nearly double the price.
You don’t have any issues with the 1/3rd? There are a ton of those locally for dirt cheap. For more of a drive I can get a 1/2 horse. Or I can go against my nature and wait til one pops up locally.
The SB9 is a light duty lathe, so 1/2 hp is more than adequate. My 13" Sheldon has a 2 hp motor. My 22" Hamilton has a 10 hp motor. The largest depth of cut that I take on the 1/3 hp SB9 on mild steel with HSS tooling is about .025 per side. I use the older one for second operations. My .02
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