New lathe user question. I have an Enco 110-2031 and the spring loaded pin in the bull gear that lets you direct connect to the step pulley pops right back out when the motor starts moving. Have you encountered anything like this? there is only like a 32nd of an inch maybe between the step pulley and bull gear, so I cannot see much. I can hear and feel it snap into place when I line up the pin and the indicator line on the pulley. But it never stays in place.
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Enco 12x36 Lathe Rebuild (Picture Heavy!)
- Thread starter macardoso
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Mine snaps firmly into the
You can use the Grizzly G9249 (nearly identical lathe) exploded parts diagram to look how this pin assembles. It wouldn't be complicated to fabricate a new one or order a replacement from Grizzly. I am concerned that doing so might require pulling the spindle which is a headache that I have not attempted.
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Thanks for the info, sounds like you're probly right. Do you think there's any chance I won't have to take the whole spindle, pulley and gear assembly off the lathe to replace the part?
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From a quick look at the exploded parts diagram...
Parts 119, 122, & 123 make up the pin. 123 looks to thread into 119 and squeezes the spring 122 between them. From this point of view, it looks to be like the locking pin (123) must be removed from the bull gear on the side facing the pulley. I hate to say it, but it kind of looks like pulling the spindle might be required to access that.
Spindle repair is totally doable, but get the right tools, make a very clean workspace, and plan ahead with a written procedure.
I could also be wrong and it is possible to remove it from the front of the bull gear without pulling the spindle.
Where would I get a hold of a written procedure?
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You write it
No seriously, just look at your lathe and the exploded parts diagrams, figure out which parts are going to come off, which might spill oil or send a spring flying, then write it all down.
This way you know which tools you need and have a plan of action.
If you do pull the spindle, it might be a nice time to replace the spindle belt too. You can’t get a new one in without removing the spindle or putting in a link belt.
I’m happy to chat with you to come up with a plan here. Shouldn’t be too bad.
You also mentioned the proper tools, what special tools do you recommend?You write it
No seriously, just look at your lathe and the exploded parts diagrams, figure out which parts are going to come off, which might spill oil or send a spring flying, then write it all down.
This way you know which tools you need and have a plan of action.
If you do pull the spindle, it might be a nice time to replace the spindle belt too. You can’t get a new one in without removing the spindle or putting in a link belt.
I’m happy to chat with you to come up with a plan here. Shouldn’t be too bad.
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Hmmmmm Let me think
- (2) Spanner wrenches that fit the spindle jam nuts
- Wood blocking for the bed ways when the spindle comes out
- Flat blade or scraper to remove spindle bearing sight glasses
- Cup or tray (I used aluminum foil) to catch spindle oil from sight glass holes
- Metric allen wrench to remove the spindle front cover and gasket (104 & 105)
- Dead blow or lead hammer to gently tap spindle to remove
- Perhaps a fixture with a threaded rod and pull plates to apply force to the spindle to remove rather than whacking it with a hammer
- Spare belt
- Dial indicator and mount (tenths preferable to measure TIR and endplay)
- Mobil DTE ISO 68 spindle bearing oil and funnel
- Gear puller kit if required
- Remove chuck and clean bedways
- Measure spindle TIR inside the spindle on the MT5 taper and write it down.
- Clean a large area of work bench. I like to tape masking paper down to create a very clean work area
- Use spanner wrenches to remove spindle jam nut
- Remove spindle oil sights and drain oil
- Remove spindle front cover and gasket
- Remove spindle gear (use gear puller if needed)
- Remove spindle rear cover
- Use long threaded rod and plates to pull the spindle out the front
- Carefully remove rear bearing with gloves and place in clean plastic bag
- Slowly pull the spindle forward removing components one at a time from the headstock and placing in labeled plastic bags
- Don't loose keys 106 & 107
- Remove spindle entirely. Leave front bearing in place. Cover in Saran wrap.
- Remove belt from headstock if desired
- Repair locking pin. If you don't have another lathe or a mill to fabricate a replacement then buy one ahead of time from Grizzly.
- Clean all parts and headstock thoroughly with degreaser or isopropal (rubbing) alcohol. Oil generously with Mobil DTE. Make sure to use lint free wipes on the bearings since any fibers can cause runout and bearing wear.
- Begin reassembly in reverse order
- Triple check that you have installed everything and it is in the correct order. The pulley should spin freely on the spindle and the bull gear should not.
- Install the rear bearing. It might require some sort of pull plate fixture to press back onto the spindle shaft. I would think it would be a firm sliding fit but I don't know. Don't go too tight.
- Install spindle gear. This too may require a pull plate fixture
- Install locknut #1. Adjust to lightly snug. Measure spindle TIR and endplay.
- Adjust locknut #1 to bring endplay to .0001" or so. The spindle should be rigid but still able to be turned easily by hand. You probably don't want it loose enough to spin freely. This can be adjusted later
- Install locknut #2 and use both wrenches to firmly jam them together
- Install front cover and gasket.
- Fill to sight level with oil
- Run in spindle. It should reach a steady state temp that is slightly warm to the touch. It should not get hot. If it does, back off on the jam nuts.
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Further inspection indicates that the front bearing is in fact an angular contact ball bearing. The rear is a tapered roller bearing. This might mean that the bearing is a firm sliding fit in the front housing of the headstock and a press fit on the shaft. I wouldn't remove this from the shaft.
Both bearings will be directional. Make sure you get them back in the correct way.
Be gentle with the bearings. Replacing them will cost you $100.
Here is the manual:
Here is the grizzly spare parts site. I got my missing change gears from here:
www.grizzly.com
Both bearings will be directional. Make sure you get them back in the correct way.
Be gentle with the bearings. Replacing them will cost you $100.
Here is the manual:
Here is the grizzly spare parts site. I got my missing change gears from here:
Parts - Grizzly Industrial
Grizzly Industrial, Inc. is a national retail and internet company providing a wide variety of high-quality woodworking and metalworking machinery, power tools, hand tools and accessories. By selling directly to end users we provide the best quality products at the best price to professionals...
www.grizzly.com
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Macardoso
I added one of the link belts to the motor on my lathe and it sure smoothed it out. Also with the new jones+smith I had to move the capacitors to a box on the back of the head stock because with them on the motor it couldn't be lifted high enough to easly switch the belt on the pulleys. Found a small bucket that fit the back of the motor so it got hacked up until it slide up around the motor hopefully keeping swarf out ot the motor.
I am still looking at building a chip guard but so far its still a plan.
Jim
I added one of the link belts to the motor on my lathe and it sure smoothed it out. Also with the new jones+smith I had to move the capacitors to a box on the back of the head stock because with them on the motor it couldn't be lifted high enough to easly switch the belt on the pulleys. Found a small bucket that fit the back of the motor so it got hacked up until it slide up around the motor hopefully keeping swarf out ot the motor.
I am still looking at building a chip guard but so far its still a plan.
Jim
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