[Read!] Damn Near Burned The House Down - Space Heaters

yes, but try getting a quality 15amp outlet... most are low residential type. The quality type seem to be hard to find these days.

To me the quality ones are the ones with the metal strap going around the back.
They have the 2 brass leaves that allow you to just insert the wire, and tighten down the screw to secure (not the insert and it's done)..
They have the square drive on all screws. I just picked up a leviton that only the ground had the square drive, the others were phillips/slot... I was shocked, as I only brought a square drive up... damn why one and not all ???

There seems to be a couple of Home Depots (it's a national chain, you may have heard of them :grin:) within 15 miles of Pittstown, NJ.
The Bridgewater store on Rt 202 seems to have 32 (individuals) in stock. The Flemington store seems to have 3 ten packs in stock. Hurry.

 
Wow...
Off to check my space heater!
Sure am glad disaster was averted Jim!
 
BTW, does anyone trust the Wago connectors... I used them on my bathroom wafer lights, it came with them. I figured low draw... but I have my doubts about using them for more since they are just like the regular insert to connect. My son is using them for a bunch of things, and I told him they are not good for heavy loads in my opinion....
The Wagos are interesting, but because they don't connect wire-to-wire, they have amp ratings*. European electricians seem to really prefer them.

For example, the common '221' size is rated at 20A for UL (32 at IEC?).
 
The only problem is that Leviton doesn't seem to make a 15 Amp commercial grade receptacle. They only seem to be available in a 20 amp, all of the 15 Amp units are residential grade.

Leviton (Home Depot) makes plenty of Commercial Grade 15 Amp receptacles.

Even Industrial Grade. Often only stocked in gray, but available in the usual variety of colors, free delivery to the store, when ordered online.

 
Leviton (Home Depot) makes plenty of Commercial Grade 15 Amp receptacles.

Even Industrial Grade. Often only stocked in gray, but available in the usual variety of colors, free delivery to the store, when ordered online.


OK I found them. Took a little digging. :grin:
 
Still a bit off topic but, hopefully useful.
I gave up using exposed filament portable space heaters about 50 years ago.

Preferred type is as below. Thermostatic control is a big help.

 
There seems to be a couple of Home Depots (it's a national chain, you may have heard of them :grin:) within 15 miles of Pittstown, NJ.
The Bridgewater store on Rt 202 seems to have 32 (individuals) in stock. The Flemington store seems to have 3 ten packs in stock. Hurry.

I'll take your sarcasm as a smirk... but I guess you missed my point about quality. Those do not contain the clamping brass leaves that allow the wire to be inserted and clamped down. They were available on older Leviton units. you inserted it near the screw behind a stamped brass clamp, then tightened the screw... they were nice. Now push to connect, and screw terminal.. Also the quality is not the same.. Just lighter it seems. Yes I have bought the industrial 15amp sockets.. still not loving them like they used to be.
 
Had a bit of excitement this morning, and before I even had my coffee.

My roommate uses a small space heater in the bedroom to supplement the house central heating. Practices good safety with regard to the heater, not close to any combustibles, plugged directly into the wall, etc.. No problem there. It's a standard 1500/750W heater, with tip over safety switch and all UL approved.

About 2 weeks ago the original 15 Amp receptacle was getting a little loose after 40 years and appeared to be overheating. I replaced it with a 20 Amp Leviton commercial grade receptacle, nice and tight, good connection. At the same time I inspected the cord and plug on the heater, and other than some slight discoloration on the prongs I didn't see any problems. Cleaned up the prongs and life is good, everything is working fine.

Fast forward to this morning.... FIRE !!!! OH CRAP! :eek: :eek: :eek: :eek: Run to the breaker panel and hit the main, which happens to be about 5 feet from the offending area. This all happened in the space of about 30 seconds. Then a glass of water to douse the flames. It was basically the plug end of the cord burning, and maybe the receptacle, and it pretty much self extinguished once the power was off. OK... No real damage except to the cord and receptacle, just a little black soot on the wall above the plug. The wiring in the box showed no sign of damage.

View attachment 401487

View attachment 401488

Failure analysis: So how did this happen?

Facts:
  • About 2 weeks ago the original receptacle was showing signs of overheating
  • Receptacle was replaced
  • Cord and plug was inspected
  • The fire started a few seconds AFTER the heater was turned OFF.
The cord is the standard over molded 2 conductor. Probably due to the loose receptacle connection and subsequent overheating, the plastic in the plug started to carbonize internally thus creating a current path between the terminals, but not visible externally. As long as the heater was on, the current path was through the heater with very little current flowing between the terminals of the plug due to the relatively low resistance of the heater vs. the current path resistance between the plug terminals. (see Ohms Law for parallel resistors). Once the heater was turned off, the only current path was then between the terminals. And this immediately caused the plug to become a heater. Interestingly enough, the current stayed low enough not to trip a 15 Amp breaker.

Conclusion: The cord was damaged due to overheating. Likely due to the loose receptacle connection over time.

Prevention: In the future if a receptacle needs to be replaced due to signs of overheating, the mating over molded plug needs to be replaced also. You can't see the hidden damage inside of the plastic plug. I would recommend a good quality back wired plug. Don't plug space heaters or other high current draw devices into loose receptacles. I would recommend replacing the cheap over molded plugs on high current draw devices with a quality plug right out of the box. I will be doing this from now on.

We lucked out on this one, there were people in the immediate vicinity and were able to catch it before a disaster occurred. :faint:

.
UPDATE: I just ordered 10 Leviton 5266-C industrial grade plugs. https://www.amazon.com/Leviton-5266-C-Industrial-Grade-Grounding/dp/B00HCNVR7S/ref=sr_1_10?crid=27RGBHCD822YO&keywords=120v+plug&qid=1648069481&sprefix=,aps,160&sr=8-10

I'll be replacing a few plugs on stuff around here.
The current caused by the high resistance short would be the same regardless of whether the heater was on or not. The current is determined by V/R and the power V^2/R. If you had a significant drop in line voltage at the receptacle when the heater was on, you had an entirely differen6t problem.

I expect that you had a bad connection in the plug or a defective socket exacerbated by the high current draw. The fact that the fire started after turning off the heater was coincidental.

At any rate, I'm glad circumstances allowed you to catch it before any significant damage was done.
 
Probably nothing to do with your fire, but for the benefit of the unknowing, a 20 amp receptacle should not be installed on a 15 amp circuit. There are many reasons why someone can get away with it, but all those reasons are BS.
No excuses here, I'm running all 20A outlets, rated wire, and breakers on my 110v circuits, but why isn't it a good idea to run a 20A receptacle on a 15A circuit? I get that someone could plug a 20A appliance in, thinking it's a 20A circuit, and heat up the breaker and/or wiring. But aside from the need to communicate that limitation to prevent the assumption of the user, what could go wrong? I'm speaking strictly in terms of capacity, nothing else. Just curious. I never really thought an overrated receptacle could cause any problem beyond said operator error.
 
Back
Top