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Firestopper
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Just found this thread. Nice buy Paco.
I started to vote for the reinstatement of the oilers but, after thinking about it a little more, I'm not so sure.
How much service is that brake going to see in your lifetime (another 50 years). Would you ever wear them to the point that replacement was called for?
What are the trade offs?
Will more oil add to the life of the joint? I would expect so, as long as no contamination is introduced in the oiling procedure. Contamination isn't much of a problem considering the resident PM mechanic.
You could band saw a slot, perpendicular to the axis, at mid length and about half way across each bushing. Then cut spiral reliefs in both halves with a rotary tool to distribute the oil. Remove all burrs and shavings and there you go.
I think I'd reinstate the oilers, but I don't think it's a big deal either way.
Most importantly, there is about zero chance the brake will ever be abused (in your shop) so it's going to last a lifetime either way.
Regarding the leaf alignment, I don't understand where/how/what the problem is. When you revisit that area of the refurbishment please clarify what is to be aligned and what is out/where. Thanks, as always.
I like the idea of oiling joints, fresh oil flushes out particles from wear thereby removing abrasive material. Drilling the one piece bushings isn't going to give you a reservoir. I'd be tempted to cut the new bushing and make two that would install as the old ones did.
Greg
Thanks for the feedback guys, I think creating a two piece bushing might be the way to go. If I was to saw a slot the bushing would likely collapse (at the slot) upon pressing in resulting misalignment/binding of pin (I think). The contaminants would result from normal ware over the course of long term use so flushing by way of outside oil would work via ball oiler. I'm not 100% I need to grove the inside of the bushings as this could retain/pack contamination over time. The old bushing journals where packed with abrasive doodoo.
The distance from the ball oiler to the bushing is almost two inches, I was thinking the 1/4" hole (between oiler and bushing) in the main housing and a 1/8" hole through the bushing might provide a nice reservoir allowing the bushing to remain one piece. This would probably be enough to flush it on periodic scheduled maintenance.
Probably over thinking the whole thing, but the next guy that owns this machine will be able to place it in immediate service unlike myself.
Always room for improvement and I continue to learn by asking.
Extropic, The adjustments come by way of turn buckles found on rear of the top clamp and bottom table. Other adjustments are from the top clamp center and folding leaf center. the machine should have a slight crown to both the top clamp and apron when static. This provides an even bend throughout the bent/broken piece. I'm hoping my previous failure to achieve this was due to sloppy joints/pivot (all eight of them). Thanks for the Oilite link you provided. Unfortunately, I don't know the exact composition of the Oilite bushings Dreis & Krump sell. A good read non the less.
Hard to read but I have a hard copy coming:
Gentalmen,thanks again for taking the time to help me out.
Happy Thanksgiving!
Paco