Boyer Shultz 6x12 rebuild

you'll never go wrong with German made anything.
they take specifications very seriously and their quality control is excellent

i'm very interested in the thread,
i may need to rebuild my spindle if i can't adjust my preload and feel warm and fuzzy inside after doing so
 
Hey @Cadillac ,
just out of curiosity where did you order Kluber from?

did i read this correctly- you got 8 oz of Kluber for the job?
sorry if the question accentuates my ignorance as to the capacity of grease in the spindle unit.
i was considering purchasing a cartridge (14oz), but if 8oz will do the job- i'll most likely go that route and save some coin.
thanks in advance :)
 
833DC2F4-9D20-4FD6-956E-3A06FBD2732E.jpeg. The cheapest I found was the Cnc store. If you look at the picture the number for the place is on the tube. And 14oztube would be in the 130 dollar region. That would last a long long time. Probably longer than the recommended 10 yr shelf life. I got a 50 gram bottle will last about 4-5 sets of bearings.
As for the rebuild a little progress. I reassembled the electric motor and did my own little break in. I have a 1000rpm motor that I rigged up to spin the other for about 20 min. Hope it dispersed grease properly. Gonna do the spindle tonight. I’ll update.
 
Ulma Doctor said:
Hey @Cadillac ,
just out of curiosity where did you order Kluber from?

did i read this correctly- you got 8 oz of Kluber for the job?
sorry if the question accentuates my ignorance as to the capacity of grease in the spindle unit.
i was considering purchasing a cartridge (14oz), but if 8oz will do the job- i'll most likely go that route and save some coin.
thanks in advance :)
Click to expand...
The first thing I would do is to RTFM, if there actually is such a thing for your spindle, and then follow the instructions to the letter. Spindle repair is expensive, it is fussy, and there seems to be a lot of hokus pokus involved in specialists trying to keep the work for themselves as well. They get a lot of money for their work. Still, it is serious business. The spindle is the heart of the surface grinder, and it needs to be correct.

Ball bearing spindles in general do not require large amounts of grease. The bearings themselves only need to be partially filled with grease. Your Boyar-Schultz spindle will never turn more than 3600 rpm in factory trim, so it is not truly a "high speed" spindle, but it is not like automotive wheel bearings, either. I suspect that the B-S spindle bearings would be spec'd to be maybe 20-30% full of grease (guessing) at most. The remainder of the spindle does not need grease, except on any ordinary rubber shaft seals (if your surface grinder actually has such seals.) Sometimes it is worth putting some grease at the ends of the spindle to help keep grit out of the insides where the bearings are. I would also be tempted to put a light film of grease on everything inside the spindle casing to keep rust (which is grit) at bay and to keep any grit that is in there or gets in there trapped from migrating to the bearings. Only the bearings themselves need the high end grease, maybe 2 ounces total at most, any additional grease (if that is indeed wise) could be most anything with a viscosity high enough not to migrate and good enough quality to never dry out.

Disclaimer: I have never rebuilt a surface grinder spindle with ball bearings, only with plain bearings. My plain bearing spindle only has labyrinths built into the end housings to keep out dust and grit. I put a light coating of grease in the labyrinths to help keep out grit, but a bit of the ISO 2 spindle oil works its way through there and probably flushes out the area anyway.

Oh, and spindle repair is a "clean room" job, do your best...
 
I think Ive done my research on the subject and feel confident of my work. As stated the bs spindle is not necessarily high speed. I do have a nice breakdown of spindle but really does nothing more. I marked races when I pulled. Everything else is pretty straight forward. I will check spindle for runout but not expecting much since before disassembly it only flickered a tenths indicator.
As for spindle repair. I don’t think it’s rocket science work. I’m a field mechanic for heavy equipment. I’ve rebuild more hydraulic pumps valves spindles etc that I feel it’s not that different. Pay attention,take notes, pictures. Keep clean on reassembly and be thorough. I’ll definitely keep you guys posted. Thanks
 
i broke my grinder down tonight.
my problem was simple, the original rubber lovejoy coupling spider has disintegrated.
the result is the coupling halves were clacking together, giving me the false thought that there was slop in the spindle.
the spindle checked out, no slop and considerably less than a tenth runout.

thankfully the L070 spider is inexpensive. i purchased a urethane replacement.
now i gotta wait a few days to ship from ebay :frown 2:

i agree, these spindles are not rocket science- there may be arguable fine points for ultra precision-
but we'll never see half-millionth's :grin big:

if you can work on hydraulics, pumps and equipment, you can push some bearings on a spindle :grin:
 
Ulma Doctor said:
my problem was simple, the original rubber lovejoy coupling spider has disintegrated.
Click to expand...
I meant to mention that to you, Mike, a very common problem on direct drive motor/spindle grinders. For others, twist the spindle forwards and backwards looking for rotational backlash. If you feel it, you probably need a new shaft coupling spider. Mike, your new spider should help make your grinder run better and smoother.
 
Ulma Doctor said:
i agree, these spindles are not rocket science- there may be arguable fine points for ultra precision-
but we'll never see half-millionth's :grin big:
Click to expand...
I agree. The main issue is the sky high prices for many/most spindle bearings in surface grinders. It is not like buying wheel bearings for your car! Some are also obsolete. Take really good care of your spindle bearings and it can save you many hundreds of dollars to replace them.
 
So after clean up and inspection I noticed something maybe someone knows. My machine a BS h612 challenger. Circa late 70’s. I’ve read in earlier and my manual that as a option hardened ground and scraped ways. I’m no expert by any means but when I look at the “scraped” surface. To me it’s been ground and flaked. All marks are connected by the tail of flaking process. The pattern is crisscrossed and way to repetitive for scraping to me. I know I should post pictures but I’m not there now I will do so later. Any thoughts.
Another thing looking in the manual it says the vertical column is lubed from the oiling system. I cannot see a path that the oil would get to the vertical ways. Unless they use the bevel gear oil line and it just gravity drips through gear,and thrust bearing area eventually overflowing off plate and mysteriously finding its way to the ways????
Was just wondering for reassembly if I should put a thin film of grease on column then let whatever drip. Again any thoughts??
 
On the vertical and cross feed ways where there are machine loads you can't have too much oil. If you put a cup oiler and direct the oil onto the vertical ways it wouldn't hurt. BUT I'd try to get a manual and make sure the original oiler is working, too. My B&S is from the 90s, and all my oil lines were clogged with congealed oil. it was (and still is) a mess!

If your machine has Bijurs, it can get a little pricey!
 
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