Boyer Shultz 6x12 rebuild

So after a little more research and memory refresh I remember that a shielded bearing runs cooler than a sealed type. And drag on spindle from seals maybe even harmonics from the seal. So I’m guessing but that’s when they don’t use sealed in a direct drive spindle. Turns out I have a dozen or so 6203zzc3 bearings NOS nsk in sealed bags.
Now the question is I know these new bearings are at least 10 yr old. Do I worry about the shelf life of the grease in the bearings. I’ve already pulled the shields on the original bearings cleaned and reassembled one side of shields. Can even tell where I pryed. I straightened them easily.
So I’ve been researching what grease to repack in the cleaned spindle and in the motor bearings. 99% of what I saw was kluber I forgot the rest but easy to find. So I need to order some of that. I figure for the 30 bucks at least it will give me the best results on cleaning and repacking the bearings. Anything else out there that’s comparable?
 
Has anyone disassembled the rack and pinion shaft for the traverse. Mine is a manual model and I can’t seem to figure out how the shaft comes out of the table. I’ve gotten the small shaft that’s inside the other out. I removed the seal that’s behind the hand wheel. It looks to be a needle bearing next. I’ve looked at the parts breakdown and can figure it out. I want to replace needle bearings and so. It has the spring inside the table so you can index your traverse to your part. Any help? Thanks
 
So I figured out how to disassemble the hand wheel. It must be driven out towards the front of the machine. I did find that the front needle bearing was missing two needles. No good. Hopefully their available. I do have a question on needle bearings. What's the difference between a needle bearing that is full of rollers vs. ones that have a plastic cage and only about eight spaced rollers. In this grinder there are three different places with needle bearings and each application has a different style.
 
Needle bearing that are all needles and no spacer are rated for more load bearing capability. The ones with spacers usually move more freely with less effort.
 
Thanks dabbler makes sense now pointed out. I feel pretty lucky. After posting I went on old Ebay found all five bearings needed for under 20 bucks and their NOS Torrington’s which makes me feel better. Everything seems to be working out good for this grinder.
 
I spent over 2K$ for my grinder, picked it up from 960 km (500 mi) away, and had to rebuild the entire lube system, (which is still ongoing). You have one great deal there!
 
Just alittle update. All the bearings have cleaned up perfect to me. I've ordered some kluber nbu15 just waiting arrival. All parts for machine have been degreased and cleaned ready for reassembly. Right now I'm laying out electrical. Using the original control box but gutted everything. Added a fan, switches for new vac system,and switch and wiring for light. Machine didn't come with a vac system but I have enough parts laying around to make a nice one. Vfd wiring is laid out. Parts should be here before mid week anticipation sucks!
 
Dumb question--why Kluber and not another grease?
 
Never a dumb question as I asked the same weeks ago. And the response I received was its long proven success in the oem world.o_O I have umpteen tubes of grease all different grades and uses. From what I think you want a no1 grade grease meaning on the thinner side not a no2 which is most grades you find at auto parts stores. I figured 30 bucks verses maybe 300 bucks I'll try the kluber. Make me a believer:rolleyes:
Funny thing is after using some kluber I have a 5 gallon pail of lubriplate 630aa which is about the same spec but I needed 8oz of more grease:cool:.
 
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