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Beginner Milling Necessities
- Thread starter Bray D
- Start date
Well, I have some time on the machine so I thought I'd update this thread for those searching for something similar in the future. I wanted to edit my first post to include this information, but I couldn't figure out how. *doh*
Starting from the core basics, this would be my recommended starter set for the stuff I have been doing (mostly building tools to aid with mechanic work and fixtures for setting up weldments).
Machine Setup
1) 0-.030" x .0005" test indicator for tramming mill, checking gibs, etc.
2) Indicator holder - I have a collet mount which works fine, but I may pick up a spindle mount in the future.
3) Oil for ways and lead screws
Work Holding
1) Vice
2) Clamp set - Import sets are very affordable and do the job just fine.
3) Parallel set - I got an import 10 pair set for a good price from Enco.
Work Tooling
1) Jacobs style chuck with tapered shank (collet mount would suffice as well)
2) Center drills or spotting drill sets
3) Complete fractional drill bit set. This is sufficient for most of my work, though I'm finding that I need number and letter bits on occasion for tapping holes.
4) Decent sized end mill set. My 20 piece included both 2 and 4 flute ranging in size from 3/16" up to 3/4". Interstate brand through Enco was priced right for me.
5) Collets sized to fit your end mills
6) Edge finder
7) Tap and die set
8) Countersink / Chamfer tool
9) Boring head with bars (import kits available through Enco)
10) Cutting fluid (WD40 for alum. Haven't nailed down a good fluid for steel yet but anything is better than nothing)
Cleanup
1) Shop Vac - I believe I got a 5 gallon model.
2) Brushes for keeping chips off of the ways and out of the t-slots. Don't rely on compressed air - it can force chips between the ways
3) Lots-o-shop towels
I'd say that was enough to get me going. I'm still accumulating tools as I do more jobs, but I'm able to square up stock, cut keyways and slots, accurately lay out and drill holes, and enlarge holes for shafts with these tools. Threading has been necessary on occasion so I threw those in there as well. If you're building assemblies, threading and fasteners will almost always come into play.
I've found that I need to cut larger radii and arced slots lately, so I pulled the trigger on a rotary table just this morning. I'm sure my tool collection will continue to grow as I find my way in the world of machining. It's been a fun journey thus far and I'm excited to see what I'll be making in the years to come.
Starting from the core basics, this would be my recommended starter set for the stuff I have been doing (mostly building tools to aid with mechanic work and fixtures for setting up weldments).
Machine Setup
1) 0-.030" x .0005" test indicator for tramming mill, checking gibs, etc.
2) Indicator holder - I have a collet mount which works fine, but I may pick up a spindle mount in the future.
3) Oil for ways and lead screws
Work Holding
1) Vice
2) Clamp set - Import sets are very affordable and do the job just fine.
3) Parallel set - I got an import 10 pair set for a good price from Enco.
Work Tooling
1) Jacobs style chuck with tapered shank (collet mount would suffice as well)
2) Center drills or spotting drill sets
3) Complete fractional drill bit set. This is sufficient for most of my work, though I'm finding that I need number and letter bits on occasion for tapping holes.
4) Decent sized end mill set. My 20 piece included both 2 and 4 flute ranging in size from 3/16" up to 3/4". Interstate brand through Enco was priced right for me.
5) Collets sized to fit your end mills
6) Edge finder
7) Tap and die set
8) Countersink / Chamfer tool
9) Boring head with bars (import kits available through Enco)
10) Cutting fluid (WD40 for alum. Haven't nailed down a good fluid for steel yet but anything is better than nothing)
Cleanup
1) Shop Vac - I believe I got a 5 gallon model.
2) Brushes for keeping chips off of the ways and out of the t-slots. Don't rely on compressed air - it can force chips between the ways
3) Lots-o-shop towels
I'd say that was enough to get me going. I'm still accumulating tools as I do more jobs, but I'm able to square up stock, cut keyways and slots, accurately lay out and drill holes, and enlarge holes for shafts with these tools. Threading has been necessary on occasion so I threw those in there as well. If you're building assemblies, threading and fasteners will almost always come into play.
I've found that I need to cut larger radii and arced slots lately, so I pulled the trigger on a rotary table just this morning. I'm sure my tool collection will continue to grow as I find my way in the world of machining. It's been a fun journey thus far and I'm excited to see what I'll be making in the years to come.
Last edited:
- Joined
- Oct 27, 2014
- Messages
- 272
Don't get one too small and too light. I have one of these and it clogs often when vacuuming large chips and it tips over all the time. As far as vacuuming, it does work pretty well. I did get a very good price on it at Costco, though.
- Joined
- Apr 6, 2011
- Messages
- 2,080
One thing that I have found that helps immensely with the shop vac is the Oneida Dust Deputy. As I wasn't too sure about it to begin with I bought the "kit" where you use your own 5-gallon bucket. It works fantastic! The shop vac I bought is a floor or wall-mounted unit which I put up on the wall to keep it out of the way. The Dust Deputy sits on the ground beneath it. All the swarf ends up in the 5-gallon bucket and not in the vac so clean up is easy, there is no clogging of the filter, and I get increased vacuum performance. I can't say enough good things about them.
http://www.oneida-air.com/inventory.asp?catid={6EE79B16-EB63-43E7-8F30-1E06240A24A4}
If mine should ever wear out I may look at one of the units that is a step up from what I have but this simple unit works well enough.
There are plans out on the web for making your own or you could simple replicate one from the picture. At the price of the "kit" I figured it wasn't worth messing with.
-Ron
http://www.oneida-air.com/inventory.asp?catid={6EE79B16-EB63-43E7-8F30-1E06240A24A4}
If mine should ever wear out I may look at one of the units that is a step up from what I have but this simple unit works well enough.
There are plans out on the web for making your own or you could simple replicate one from the picture. At the price of the "kit" I figured it wasn't worth messing with.
-Ron
I would carry this a step farther if it were me... A face shield.
I have worn cheap safety glasses, and had a flying chip or two find their way behind them...
Harbor Freight has a nice face shield in the low $teens area... which is quite suitable for full face protection.
Some of us remember back when... Sears used to have a good shop vac, before they went Chinese.
HD bought the tooling and makes them now... they are good vacs, sold under the Ridgid name.
I would get a minimum around 10-15 gal capacity, 4+ HP...
I plan to run some 2" PVC to a closet, and a remote switch... the shop vac is NOISY...
The concerns about shop vac size are valid. Mine is a 5 gallon 2.5hp model, and I just clogged it last night.
It works well for relatively clean aluminum chips, but it doesn't like the spirals from twist drills or heavily oiled steel chips (what I was running through it last night). I have a larger vac that I keep in the attached garage. I may have to swap it out with the smaller unit in the shop.
It works well for relatively clean aluminum chips, but it doesn't like the spirals from twist drills or heavily oiled steel chips (what I was running through it last night). I have a larger vac that I keep in the attached garage. I may have to swap it out with the smaller unit in the shop.
- Joined
- Sep 29, 2014
- Messages
- 2,102
For squaring work on a hobby mill buy a small http://www.etsupply.com/edgetools/b52cutter.html B52 fly cutter they work a charm and use cheap TP inserts and only one, however they will launch chips 20+ feet across the shop, they are an excellent tool for firing hot chips at the guy running the machine next to you that you don't really like. They also leave a fine surface finish on aluminum and plastics when using non-coated inserts meant for the purpose.
Run it way faster then seems prudent for best results, and use a chip guard.
Run it way faster then seems prudent for best results, and use a chip guard.
