Basement shop equipment suggestions needed

As I said I have the 1440GT and like it. However in all fairness I should mention......The oil leak is one thing, but there is one advantage that the 1340GT has over the 1440GT that no one has mentioned. It is the way the gears are selected. The 1340GT has a Norton gear box and it operation is easier to use and to remember than the 1440GT gear box levers.

I would not worry much about which machine can cut the most thread values. The manufacturer's manuals never tell you all of the TPI values your lathe will make. They just list some of the more common ones. This is especially true when you figure in the external gears.

I wrote an Excel workbook and Macros to allow anyone to compute all of the possible TPI values you can make. You simply plug in your lathe gear settings and the exchange gears that you own at all of the possible locations where they will fit and run the macro and you get a table of all the possibilities. Typically there are thousands of possibilities. Each lathe model has it own dedicated spread sheet in the workbook and the user can modify one of the existing spread sheets in the workbook or copy paste one and then modify it. It is pretty much all explained in a sheet called ReadMe contained in the Workbook. I initially did this for my 1440GT but then I added some other lathe models, such as the 1340GT. You can try this out for both the 1440GT and the 1340GT as the spread sheets are already contained in the workbook. While the 1440GT comes with 10 external gears in addition to the transpose gears, the 1340 only comes with 4 external gears (I think, 30, 32, 35?, 40) plus transpose gears. But one can buy or make others. For the 1440GT I find that there are 21200 - 4240 = 16960 possible non-duplicated combinations not counting the 4240 possible Feed gear position. For the 1340GT seems to about 1560 non-duplicated possibilities, but here I did not include the Feed conditions. See:

Nov. 6 2023 Excel workbook file name: TPI_ManyLathesRev1 NB06_0054.xlsm
Since that time I have improved the macro to eliminate the duplicates and correct some errors that the current version has in removing the duplicates. However, the current version works fine if you just run it without selecting the "remove duplicates option," which shows up during the Macro processing.

I will attach the two spread sheets representing the possible number of TPI values for these two lathes. To avoid confusion I removed all of the other sheets and macros etc. (I think I cleaned these up correctly.) However, the macros are helpful in searching and sorting these data bases so it is nice to keep them in the Workbook referenced above.

By the way, I think that in some lathes you can also put the standard external gears on the Transpose gear position. If so there are a lot more possibilities. I did not do that here as straight forward to do so on these lathes.

Dave L.
 

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In all fairness I think threading will be very rare operation. I like to have slow feeds for finish quality, I generally like more solid and nice things.
 
In all fairness I think threading will be very rare operation. I like to have slow feeds for finish quality, I generally like more solid and nice things.
Once you learn how to single point, I think you will change your mind. Lathes make beautiful threads, and they don't take long to make. You can make any fit class you want, and they are guaranteed concentric, which is more than one can say about taps and dies.

My two cents on the subject.
 
Keep weight down .
I have a lot ads on equipment in basement very low cost or free.
My wife want me down size my lathe getting older. last November I sold my South Bend and purchased a mini lathe. She and I lifted on the work bench. In a basement you could put a hand cart and go up the stairs. FYI My new lathe is 120 pounds. Take few parts off down to under 100 pounds.

When your in 20s or 30s of even 40s going down is great now in 70s or 80's time go uphill with a 2,000 pound tool of in some case take apart a 6,000 pound lathe not fun.

Dave
Hell, I'm gonna let my sons work about that.
 
Great! Now that you guys helped me spend money, help me save some.
Going to back to my 9x19 experience (sold that lathe) I know few things:
1. I don't need DRO, at least not right away and probably never. I don't use lathe often enough to get proficient and don't do any production work.
2. I don't need collet setup for the same reason. For how often I use it - I can work with chucks.

This leaves me with buying
3-jaw
4-jaw
Cutting tools, and quick change tool post

Does this really worth $1000? What is so special? I did use 3 jaw chuck most oftent..

Is there alternatives for this?
 
Does this really worth $1000? What is so special?
Depends! I used the included 6" 3 jaw for quite a few years before buying an 8" from Taiwan. Big difference! Interchangeable jaws, Work can be reversed and still be as close to centered as many collet chucks. Smooth as silk! I had to buy a separate back plate and machine it to fit, not a big deal but brought the total price a bit over $1000. It is not necessary to buy one of these! The 6" chuck that comes with the lathe works. Start with that.
My lathe came with a BAX set similar to the one above. Works well. I did away with using a wrench by making a handle, easy to do. The tool holders all work well except you will likely want to buy a better parting tool setup. I don't like the knurling type included in the set but you can buy or make a better type. I now have a bit over 20 tool holders so I don't need to change tools in them. Most of them are from Shars when they run a sale, work fine.
 
Depends! I used the included 6" 3 jaw for quite a few years before buying an 8" from Taiwan. Big difference! Interchangeable jaws, Work can be reversed and still be as close to centered as many collet chucks. Smooth as silk! I had to buy a separate back plate and machine it to fit, not a big deal but brought the total price a bit over $1000. It is not necessary to buy one of these! The 6" chuck that comes with the lathe works. Start with that.
My lathe came with a BAX set similar to the one above. Works well. I did away with using a wrench by making a handle, easy to do. The tool holders all work well except you will likely want to buy a better parting tool setup. I don't like the knurling type included in the set but you can buy or make a better type. I now have a bit over 20 tool holders so I don't need to change tools in them. Most of them are from Shars when they run a sale, work fine.
Neither of those lathes come with a chuck. So I was wondering because this is only their choice on machine selection. It also says something about "centering". Does it mean I can dial in work to be on center if I flip/remove it? Because that would be super-nice. Understand there will be certain limit to adjust but it's usually very small adjustment that is needed.
 
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