Basement shop equipment suggestions needed

[projectnut]

For the record the lathes I took to the basement shop are a 13" x 56" Sheldon, and a 10" x 60" Seneca Falls. The stairs are reinforced with a center stringer (3 total) and supports every 3 feet from the stringers to the floor. The supports are tied together horizontally to make shelves for wood stock.

 

[rwdenney]

The piano-mover suggestion is a good one, but recognize that the lathe will weigh more than most pianos of similar length. A 6-7-foot grand piano will weigh about half of the larger lathe. That makes a big difference. Three professional movers can move my 6-foot grand and lift it over steps even when it’s strapped to a piano board and rolling on dollies. But they won’t be able to lift a 1400-pound lathe. They’ll need a hard rigging point at the top of the stairs. If those are outside stairs, a truck hitch can provide that rigging point.

If you remove the tailstock, saddle, and apron, it will be a lot lighter but the weight will be even more concentrated in the head end. This can mean it can’t be lifted from the bed, even right up by the headstock.

Expecting there to be weight stability on the tail legs with these items removed or even by the headstock can lead to disaster. Ask me how I know.

Rick “disaster lurks” Denney

 

[Dabbler]

@katit I moved a 15X60 Leblond lathe out of a basement a few years ago. wood stairs. Rhight angle turn at the top to get out. So size doesn't matter - Old iron can be done by competent people. To get it down 40 years ago, we took off the headstock and slid it down on plywood.

Pictures here:

Moving big equipment out of a basement...

Last year I bought most of the machines from a guy's basement machine shop. I also agreed to clear his basement of all machines, by taking them up the stairs. I thought I'd post a few highlights of that move, and answer questions about moving heavy equipment... These are the machines I moved...

www.hobby-machinist.com

 

[katit]

@katit I moved a 15X60 Leblond lathe out of a basement a few years ago. wood stairs. Rhight angle turn at the top to get out. So size doesn't matter - Old iron can be done by competent people. To get it down 40 years ago, we took off the headstock and slid it down on plywood.

Pictures here:

Moving big equipment out of a basement...

Last year I bought most of the machines from a guy's basement machine shop. I also agreed to clear his basement of all machines, by taking them up the stairs. I thought I'd post a few highlights of that move, and answer questions about moving heavy equipment... These are the machines I moved...

www.hobby-machinist.com

I admire you guys, seriously!! Obviously, proof that anything can be done

 

[katit]

I am back. Been 8+ month, back to square one with dilemma. Christmas season coming and I need to pull a plug.

It's going to be
PM-1340GT $8600 (with stand/fluid)
or
PM-1440GT $11600

PLEASE help me spend money right Can you tell me if other is $3000 "more" for home use? Other than 1 inch swing and bigger spindle hole?

Main dilemma remains - how to move to basement. 1440 will have to be taken apart at least base from top.

Also, I am not sure if I need fluid? It's in a basement room with sub-optimal ventilation. Is fluid smelly?

 

[Larry$]

I don't think 13 VS 14 for a home shop matters all that much. Weight is the big issue getting a lathe into a basement. Mass may be your friend when production turning but not when you're trying to move it. Get knowledgeable help! Two ways to keep control at all times. No one below the load. I've moved some much bigger equipment multiple times and there is always a risk. For what it's worth, I don't trust come-a-longs. Lathes tend to be top heavy, which adds considerable risk. Not seeing what you have, I'd be inclined to take both off their bases. Are you planning on renting moving equipment?
Fluid? it helps keep the tooling cutting well and may allow faster production. But it is certainly not a requirement and the mess is considerable. Maintaining coolant is also an issue. I would skip it and just apply with a brush or the like when needed. I have a coolant system on my 1440 and don't use it. Spindle bore helps a lot in production use and is always nice to have bigger but my lathe only has just over 1½" bore and it hasn't been a problem.

Is fluid smelly?

It's not so much the scent as the mist getting into your lunges. It also ends up all around the machine.
Be careful!

 

[Eddyde]

I am back. Been 8+ month, back to square one with dilemma. Christmas season coming and I need to pull a plug.

It's going to be
PM-1340GT $8600 (with stand/fluid)
or
PM-1440GT $11600

PLEASE help me spend money right Can you tell me if other is $3000 "more" for home use? Other than 1 inch swing and bigger spindle hole?

Main dilemma remains - how to move to basement. 1440 will have to be taken apart at least base from top.

Also, I am not sure if I need fluid? It's in a basement room with sub-optimal ventilation. Is fluid smelly?

You mean coolant/cutting fluid? I don't think most home or small shop machinists use it regularly, It's mostly for production work, using heavy cutting depths at high feed rates. When I do need it, I just use a spray bottle, I never use the recirculating pump.

As far as which lathe? I'd go for the 1440 if I could swing it (NPI)...

 

[katit]

My plan is as follows...
A. I will have top off regardless. 1340 comes in pieces which is convenient already. 1440 needs to be taken apart.
B. I will take tailstock, chuck, motor, any quick change gears off. I was thinking taking apron off as well (is that a big deal?)
C. I will build angle iron reinforces box around lathe, and dimensionally it should resemble some kind of safe.
D.I will drain oil if any

After that I was going to simply roll it (should be less than 1000lb) using mover dollies.
On basement stairs which is straight in with a landing I was going to put boards/plywood and slide this "box" down with come along. Putting heavy end down.
Then, stand on that heavy end vertically. Should be doable with 2 people.(?)
Then, slide through door and can be lowered back onto dollies.

Is that a "doable" plan?
Machine weight (without stand) 1100lb. After removing what I mentioned I should be able to get it below 900 right?

@Eddyde What do you mean by (NPI)? And why 1440? What specifically you like about it better than 1340?

 

[katit]

I don't trust come-a-longs. Lathes tend to be top heavy, which adds considerable risk. Not seeing what you have, I'd be inclined to take both off their bases. Are you planning on renting moving equipment?

Be careful!

Understood on fluid. Probably not something I would/could use. So no need.
What equipment are you referring to? I am not sure anything would work/help. I basically need to "drag" this box everywhere except that one stair where it needs to be stand up to get into the door and then laid back down.

At final location I will use engine hoist to put it on stand.

 

[B2]

I like my 1440GT. No problems. I know others that have the 1340GT and also like it, but they all say it drips oil from the gear box .... perhaps it is an issue of how the gears are oiled by a splash process. My 1440GT does not leak at all. I am sure you can read up on HM about the leaking and folk's approach to catching the oil. I think David P. Best mentioned his and he posts lots of pictures of his projects.

The really bad coolant/lubricant stink is due to the coolant evaporating/decomposing when it gets hot at the tool cutting edge. You can either limit its use, use a water based coolant (I fear rust), or ventilate your area as best you can. I did some heavy cutting on my mill for an extended period of time and so I set up my mill with flood cooling just for that project. The mill came with a coolant pump system. It did a nice job, but the smoke was awful and flood cooling creates a real mess. I purchased the best coolant I could get (most expensive) and it turns out it was the stuff that they use in big automated systems....I think. I concluded it is designed to both evaporate and to chemically break down. Doing so it absorbs more heat from the tool. Some folks do mist cooling rather than flood cooling, but I have yet to try this. This requires compressed air. My PM1440GT also came with a coolant pump system, but so far I have avoided using it. If you want to use a coolant you might consider one of the cooking oils. At least they do not start out as toxic, but may break down in to toxic gases! What is that sticky brown stuff that accumulates on your fry pan??!!! I don't think I want to breath a lot of that either. Anything is better than nothing, but if you are only cutting soft metals you can get by with just a little coolant/lubricant.

Dave L.