Atlas Horizontal mill

Well heck, if this works and is as simple to make as it looks, would it be worth going to the trouble to try to duplicate the original? :frog:
 
If you duplicate the original casting and can keep it inexpensive I would be interested.
 
Green Frog said:
What you are probably seeing is the disk of a combination sander on a table behind the mill and various other junk back there. Unfortunately, it is easy to get distracted by the clutter in my basement/shop... there is certainly plenty of clutter there! You've piqued my interest in a dividing head or something similar though... they can be very useful with a horizontal mill. As I said in previous post, I have been cogitating on how I could get a leg up on building such a unit.

As for the price of that kick out cam... if I can get a good casting made and provide it "raw" but ready to use with minimal D-I-Y machining and fitting, would you be interested in it, or would it take a finished, ready-to-install part to attract your interest? Note previous post about why I am embarking on this project.

Regards,
Froggie
Click to expand...

Again, thanks for the info on the view in the picture. And you are right about becoming to easily distracted with other prjects. and in that regard - don't sweat the kick-out. It now appears we have prints and pictures of what others have created and can act as guidance. Since your task would seem to be getting harder and more complicated, let it go.. and thanks for initiating the help.
 
Not really a substitute for a proper dividing head, but a spin indexer can get you 360 single degree increments. Mounting on an Atlas could get tricky with the single slot. Probably bolt to a plate, then bolt the plate to the mill.

They run about $50 for the chinese ones. $7 or $8 for a collet or three, and you can do some reasonable indexing.

Changing subjects back a few pages to the overarm locks, I decided to do something goofy to make the rubber spacer for the lock. I bought a black rubber stopper from the hardware store for a buck, chucked it gently in the 3-jaw on the lathe and slowly drilled a hole through it. It worked!! Then, I put it on an arbor(here's where things started to go wrong) and tried a number of things to reduce the outside to 5/8". Conventional cutters didn't work well, but abrasive paper and a coarse file both worked well. Unfortunately, the torque on the rubber screwed my arbor (bolt in a hole) into the hole, compressed the cork, and when I took it off, it was undersize a bit. I sliced down the side with a sharp knife, and got something close.

I'll have to rethink and try again. I think I might have some cork borers on a shelf somewhere. Green Frog, with your university access you could probably swing by a chem lab and punch one out in a couple of minutes. The black rubber stoppers seem to be about the right durometer for the lock.

Bushing.jpg
 
Hockey puck? They are hard rubber (vulcanized?).
 
Rob,

JPG is absolutely the worst possible file type to use for anything mechanical or electrical. Can you please send the .original TIF file to wa5cab@cs.com?
 
I think the hockey puck would be too hard. I am using them for antivibration feet on my mill. And got flamed pretty good for it (as I expected) over at practical machinist....
 
Frog give
After seeing what clueless posted I Agree with 34_40 that it would be easy to make on my own. Thanks for starting the discussion on it though. That did bring out another idea on making it and sometimes that is the hard thing to come up with.
 
FYI The July-August 2001 issue of "The Home Shop Machinist" has drawings for the cam. Rudy made the T nut and the cam part out of steel and the body out of aluminum.
 
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