AR's

Garryzgarage

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Are their any of you working on any of the 80% lowers would like to hear from you all Garry

just wanted to wade in on the 223/5.56? I did read that the military max loads and due to the many companies doing it you can see some extreme pressure, case in point I purchased 3k of once fired brass and while sorted them by case brand I notice the following 1- primers flatten or crater mushroom also case stress change in color of brass, could be bad chamber or a hot load,I did have some blowen primers, bad pressure curve, holes in the primers,which could be a long firing pin,that what have seen in 3K rounds, Garry
 
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Yes I finished mine a few weeks ago, There fairly easy.

Paul

AR15.JPG 2.JPG 80-lower-anodizedlus.jpg
 
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If you build one get the upper chambered for 5.56X45 Nato. With a 223 chamber you can shoot the Nato round just not a lot at one time,

Paul
 
They are pretty easy now. I've been working on them for maybe 10 years now, off and on. The new ones with the forged receivers and the EDM'ed/broached magwells are the best.

The last one I worked on was a forged receiver.

All you have to do is drill/ream the trigger pins, safety, and THEN, mill the fire control slot. I usually mill it to the M16 style (without the autosear block) as it is easier and faster. Two setups, and you are done.
 
I believe omitting the denial block creates an NFA weapon, or machine gun to use common terms. This is highly illegal unless you have the proper license (SOT). I don't usually preach legalities, but I certainly don't want anyone getting into trouble. I cut the block in all mine.

To answer the OP's question, yes they are fairly easy. You can do a good job of completing one with a drill press, Dremel and some patience. Get a good set of plans and double check the dimensions against other plans online to insure accuracy. And don't be afraid to goof up. The AR platform is pretty sloppy by firearm standards and very forgiving.
 
Two comments to this post in order to provide accurate information:

1: You can shoot .223 in the 5.56 chamber, NOT 5.56 in a 223 (the dimensions are minutely different
and the chamber pressures are significantly higher in the 5.56)

2: The "denial block" in the casting / machining will not be the deciding factor on an NFA weapon,
it is the drilled hole for the auto-sear and / or any auto parts installed in the lower.

If you have further questions, feel free to ask, I will be glad to answer or provide contact info for those that can answer the question.
 
Two comments to this post in order to provide accurate information:

1: You can shoot .223 in the 5.56 chamber, NOT 5.56 in a 223 (the dimensions are minutely different
and the chamber pressures are significantly higher in the 5.56)

2: The "denial block" in the casting / machining will not be the deciding factor on an NFA weapon,
it is the drilled hole for the auto-sear and / or any auto parts installed in the lower.

If you have further questions, feel free to ask, I will be glad to answer or provide contact info for those that can answer the question.

Garry here needed explanation on number two the denial block, I have worked on lowers that give you option on milling leaving the rear just behind the safety hole intact were as the 16 lower is cut all the way, now are we on the same track, Garry
 
Two comments to this post in order to provide accurate information:

1: You can shoot .223 in the 5.56 chamber, NOT 5.56 in a 223 (the dimensions are minutely different
and the chamber pressures are significantly higher in the 5.56)

2: The "denial block" in the casting / machining will not be the deciding factor on an NFA weapon,
it is the drilled hole for the auto-sear and / or any auto parts installed in the lower.

If you have further questions, feel free to ask, I will be glad to answer or provide contact info for those that can answer the question.

While not wanting to start anything you mite want to check out the 5.62X45 not being fired in a 223 chamber. It can be done but not a lot a one time.

Paul
 
As far as the .223 / 5.56, its not quite as drastic as .38 SPL / .357 Magnum and many other "semi-interchangeable" calibers throughout history. Not that you CAN'T do it, more that you SHOULDN'T do it. Just like max and overloads, you can do it, but the risks often out weigh the benefits. I've seen too many quality firearms (and people) damaged by pushing the design envelope.

I'll step off my soapbox now, just don't want to propagate some of the internet's "this is fine..." and have on unnecessary incident.
 
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