Anyone else get carried away with 3d printed tool storage?

cura does that has the grams you can multiply by the price/gram you bought and come up with it. get a tool to join the filaments and your good to go.

I never had much luck joining filament. I didn't try a custom tool though. Perhaps there is a good way to do it. My large format printer has a sensor to detect running out. If it does, it pauses the print, keeping everything hot, so you can swap. On the older printer, it would be nice to be able to do that though. Maybe I'll try one of the various tools out there now for it.

Some of the newer multi material setups can even swap to a new spool automatically for you. So if you are getting low, just put a fresh one in the next slot and off you go. I'm sure they could all do it with a software update if any don't have it yet.
 
I never had much luck joining filament. I didn't try a custom tool though. Perhaps there is a good way to do it. My large format printer has a sensor to detect running out. If it does, it pauses the print, keeping everything hot, so you can swap. On the older printer, it would be nice to be able to do that though. Maybe I'll try one of the various tools out there now for it.

Some of the newer multi material setups can even swap to a new spool automatically for you. So if you are getting low, just put a fresh one in the next slot and off you go. I'm sure they could all do it with a software update if any don't have it yet.
I am cheap so my setup is very simple. I try to start the print at a time that I will be home around the time it finishes.
 
My latest tool storage:
IMG_1902.jpeg


multifix AS (possibly A as well) tool holder rack and chuck key rack. All attached to a piece of 4040 aluminium extrusion with t nuts and M8 screws.

 
Is there a good rule of thumb for wall thickness and infill density to use for tool holders? I'm designing a collet/chuck rack to attach to the side of my mill column. It'll hold a 1/2" drill chuck, small boring head, 6 R8 collets, and some small tools like allen wrenches. Roughly 7" x 8". Planning on printing in ABS.
 
Is there a good rule of thumb for wall thickness and infill density to use for tool holders? I'm designing a collet/chuck rack to attach to the side of my mill column. It'll hold a 1/2" drill chuck, small boring head, 6 R8 collets, and some small tools like allen wrenches. Roughly 7" x 8". Planning on printing in ABS.

There's no rule of thumb, since the orientation of the part when printed will have at least as much effect on strength as wall thickness. Probably more. The same with the printers settings, temps, etc. The way FDM printers put layer over layer, the orientation is a major factor.

For what you are going to print, it doesn't need to be very strong.

As an example. This part was printed in PLA, with 3 walls and 25 percent honeycomb infill. It could easily take 5x the amount of wight that is in it currently. it was printed in the same orientation as it sits in the pic.



IMG-20220917-170358094.jpg
 
IMG_3329.jpg

These are MT2 shank centers and tool holders on a sliding 1” extrusion rail. Thickness is approx. 1/4”. I usually run 30% infill, but will bump up wall thicknesses an extra layer on thin parts that need to take a load. I have no defense for 30% infill except to say they haven’t failed yet. Ken’s chunky designs look a lot cooler, but will take a lot longer to print. The ones you see here print flat and only take a few hours to print several on one sheet.

Point being this: layer orientation really matters with designs to required to hold loads. If you go with thin walls, consider flat foldable designs with higher infills. If you go with more stylized designs, chunkier, beefier…you can get away with thinner walls and less infill.


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The drawer pulls on my Kennedy toolbox are kinda small and hard to grip, especially when wearing gloves. I drew up these add ones in FreeCad and printed them out. One of those little things that makes life easier…

76F1F17F-7142-4ECD-8959-4CE15569A26A.jpeg
 
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