Another obligatory New PM-833TV and PM-1340GT Ordered!

I am sorry guys I did not explain myself well. I do not think the column is bowing/flexing as you have described it. Let me try again. Below is my theoretical concept that I was suggesting.

Yes, I know about James, YouTube, and his mill. Unfortunately he did not describe exactly what they were, just that he was disappointed. He also traded it in so he did not fix the problem. He also was not trying to use it as a CNC and the knee mill he got is not very good for a CNC conversion. I think the replacement mill that he got is the same one that David Best purchased and David told me that even that mill he had to work on it a lot to get it to work right. He may have even replace the entire head!

All of these bench Mill columns seem to be made in a U shaped cross section. This is so that the head can be attached to the lead screw through the opening of the U. At the top and bottom of the column the U is closed at the front to form a box shaped cross section. The distance between these end boxes determines the travel distance of the head. The ball nut is mounted to the head saddle mount and reaches through the U opening to attach to the turning lead screw. So the saddle attaches (hangs from) to the ways on the column with the column ways (55 degree corners) being at the opening of the U. The head saddle is about a foot long and the gib is in between the saddle ways and the column way. As the head hangs on these ways it tend to torque about the x-axis. That is it apply pressure against the column at the bottom, but pulls on the ways at the top. Due to the angular shape of the 55 degree ways this pulling tends to press the ends of the U together. This torque, for a heavy head, is quite substantial and I believe can deflect the width of the U at the ways. So when the head is in the vertical middle point the column the U bends together, but when the head is at the top or the bottom of the column where the box shape is right at the edge of the U shape part the box starts to play a stronger role to stiffen up the U portion, so the U bends very little if any. Think of the ways as a board supported at the ends but with noting under it in the middle... and you were going to walk across the board. It would deflect downward as you approached the middle. It is just a spring as the board bends. So what does this mean?

It says that the distance between the two sides of the column ways varies as the head goes up and down! In the middle position when the head is far from the ends the distance between the column ways is the smallest. Hence the gib is looser there than it would be when the head is at the top or bottom of the column! It would not take much of a flexing of the U shape to reach a few thousands and a few thousands is a lot for a gib. You can adjust the gib for the middle or for the ends, but it is different. And in this theory it is a function of the head position. Probably somewhat linear. I purchased the parts to make a special micrometer to fit across the column ways but have yet to make the rest of the parts to put it together. If I ever get around to this I will measure the column U separation (distance between the two column 55 degree ways) as a function of the head position. I want to do this anyway to see if the two way sides are parallel. I will of course use this same tool to measure my x and y ways as well. In concept if a had a large distance micrometer I could do the measurement, but there is not much room to insert one behind the motor etc. I am essentially going to build one that is very accurate, but which is not so big. I purchased an open end 1 micron sensitve digital micrometer for this. One inserts a couple of cylinders into the ways to press against in this sort of measurement.

If I do find this U flexing effect is coming into play there is not a lot one can do to the column ways to fix it. But here the possible solutions I have come up with: 1) In concept one could machine the ways at the top and bottom to be narrower, i.e. to be equal to the flexed U distance, but this is a dynamic system and would be different for different Milling heads etc. In concept I could do this with a lot of difficult "scraping" while measuring the flexure. That is scrape down into the 55 degree ways while the head is mounted so as to allow measurements. But is almost impossible to manufacture, even if the manufacturer were precise at manufacturing. NOT! 2) Figure out some internal bracing inside the U to hold the ways from flexing. Possible, but very difficult given that the ball nut must travel inside the U. Maybe reinforce the shape from the outside would work, but it would be in the way of all of the external moving parts ... limit switch travel, DRO, etc. 3) Rebuild the entire column to be stronger. Maybe a new saddle while doing it. It would be better if the manufacturer had done this to start with! 4) Reduce the head weight so that the torquing effect is reduced. Or, counter balance the head weight in some manor. The best approach I have come up with for this is to mount some pulleys on the top of the column, run a couple of cables over the pulleys, attached the ends of the cable to the head and to a weight that is hanging down the back of the column. As the head goes up and down the weights move in the opposite direction to help lift the head. The cables need to be mounted to the head near its center of gravity to prevent the torquing effect. So probably out past the motor and the ideal approach is for the cable to travel vertically so that the lift does not change angle as the head is lifted. In my mills case this weight needs to approach 275#s to fully counter balance the head weight. Instead of weights some sort of spring contraption might be used. I had though of either air springs that pull, but I have not found any yet that have as long a retraction distance as my mills travel. Or maybe a preloaded torsional spring like the ones used on some garage doors. 5) The last solution I come up with is to get a better mill! But which mill model is it that does not have its own problems. Hopefully just fewer and less severe problems.

As they say, "Man plans and God laughs!"

Good night.
Dave L.
 
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<begin rant> I’ve talked with James extensively. There are substantial differences in the rigidity of the square column on different models of benchtop mills. My Rong Fu 45 (and four others I have tuned up for friends) are vastly more rigid than my PM-935 knee mill. James’ PM-940 was worse than his PM-935 knee mill and even much worse than his small Grizzly 0704. So there is no universal truth here about square column benchtop mills being less rigid than a knee mill.

What is true, is that if the gibs are not properly fitted in the dovetail ways, there will be sloppiness under load - even with the gibs locked on the knee or the column. Start fitting the gibs properly if you want repeatable tight tolerance results. Today, neither mainland China nor Taiwan seem to put much effort into properly fitting the gibs on the more value-priced mills. I spent a full weekend fitting the gibs on my 935 to substantial benefit.

It’s true that if the column on a benchtop, or the knuckle/ram on a knee mill are springy castings, no amount of gib fitting is going to yield high tolerance results.

Neil, If tight tolerances are what you want, I encourage you to blue up the gibs and get them properly fitted to the dovetails even if you have to resort to an angle grinder, a file, and some KY. <end of rant>
 
@davidpbest
David, I think that the springing that I was referring to is different than the bending of the column that James must have discussed with you??? I just expounded on this. I think the U shape of the column is flexing inward making the gib loose at different positions along the z-axis. See the posting that went up as you were <begin rant> ing ....

Dave L.
 
I am sorry guys I did not explain myself well. I do not think the column is bowing/flexing as you have described it. Let me try again. Below is my theoretical concept that I was suggesting.

All of these Mill columns are made in a U shaped cross section. This is so that the head can be attached through the opening of the U. At the top and bottom of the column the U is closed at the front to form a box shaped cross section. The distance between these end boxes is the travel distance of the head. The ball nut is mounted to the head saddle and reaches through the U opening to attach to the turning lead screw. So the saddle attaches to the ways on the column with the column ways (55 degree corners) being at the opening of the U. The head saddle is about a foot long and the gib is in between the saddle ways and the column way. As the head hangs on these ways it tend to torque about the x-axis. That is it apply pressure against the column at the bottom, but pulls on the ways at the top. Due to the angular shape of the 55 degree ways this pulling tends to press the ends of the U together. This torque, for a heavy head, is quite substantial and I believe can deflect the width of the U at the ways. So when the head is in the vertical middle point the column the U bends together, but when the head is at the top or the bottom of the column where the box shape is right at the edge of the U shape part the box starts to play a stronger role to stiffen up the U portion, so the U bends very little if any. Think of the ways as a board supported at the ends but with noting under it in the middle... and you were going to walk across the board. It would deflect downward as you approached the middle. It is just a spring as the board bends. So what does this mean?

It says that the distance between the two sides of the column ways varies as the head goes up and down! In the middle position when the head is far from the ends the distance between the column ways is the smallest. Hence the gib is looser there than it would be when the head is at the top or bottom of the column! It would not take much of a flexing of the U shape to reach a few thousands and a few thousands is a lot for a gib. You can adjust the gib for the middle or for the ends, but it is different. And in this theory it is a function of the head position. Probably somewhat linear. I purchased the parts to make a special micrometer to fit across the column ways but have yet to make the rest of the parts to put it together. If I ever get around to this I will measure the column U separation (distance between the two column 55 degree ways) as a function of the head position. I want to do this anyway to see if the two way sides are parallel. I will of course use this same tool to measure my x and y ways as well. In concept if a had a large distance micrometer I could do the measurement, but there is not much room to insert one behind the motor etc. I am essentially going to build one that is very accurate, but which is not so big. I purchased an open end 1 micron sensitve digital micrometer for this. One inserts a couple of cylinders into the ways to press against in this sort of measurement.

If I do find this U flexing effect is coming into play there is not a lot one can do to the column ways to fix it. But here the possible solutions I have come up with: 1) In concept one could machine the ways at the top and bottom to be narrower, i.e. to be equal to the flexed U distance, but this is a dynamic system and would be different for different Milling heads etc. In concept I could do this with a lot of difficult "scraping" while measuring the flexure. That is scrape down into the 55 degree ways while the head is mounted so as to allow measurements. But is almost impossible to manufacture, even if the manufacturer were precise at manufacturing. NOT! 2) Figure out some internal bracing inside the U to hold the ways from flexing. Possible, but very difficult given that the ball nut must travel inside the U. Maybe reinforce the shape from the outside would work, but it would be in the way of all of the external moving parts ... limit switch travel, DRO, etc. 3) Rebuild the entire column to be stronger. Maybe a new saddle while doing it. It would be better if the manufacturer had done this to start with! 4) Reduce the head weight so that the torquing effect is reduced. Or, counter balance the head weight in some manor. The best approach I have come up with for this is to mount some pulleys on the top of the column, run a couple of cables over the pulleys, attached the ends of the cable to the head and to a weight that is hanging down the back of the column. As the head goes up and down the weights move in the opposite direction to help lift the head. The cables need to be mounted to the head near its center of gravity to prevent the torquing effect. So probably out past the motor and the ideal approach is for the cable to travel vertically so that the lift does not change angle as the head is lifted. In my mills case this weight needs to approach 275#s to fully counter balance the head weight. Instead of weights some sort of spring contraption might be used. I had though of either air springs that pull, but I have not found any yet that have as long a retraction distance as my mills travel. Or maybe a preloaded torsional spring like the ones used on some garage doors. 5) The last solution I come up with is to get a better mill! But which mill model is it that does not have its own problems. Hopefully just fewer and less severe problems.

As they say, "Man plans and God laughs!"

Good night.
Dave L.


This makes some sense to me. The internal structures on the column vary from machine to machine. It would be easy enough to instrument this with a couple of dowel pin in the dovetails, measuring across them with at micrometer, and heavily loading up the locking levers. That test could be done at various heights of the column. You could also affix a wire rope cable to the spindle (chuck it up In a collet) and start applying tension and see how the head displaces at various positions. This video pops to mind, although a more precise load and measurement technique could be employed. Skip to 8:45 in the timeline.

 
Yes, a good video. In formative. Thanks. I have not tried this measurement techique. The 940M column is much bigger in cross section than the mills in the video so probably stiffer.

Of course I am discussing torque about the x axis not about the y as in the video. What he shows is indeed a bending of the column as oppose to my discussing a pinching of the ways toward each other. I know you understand this via your comments.

I would do the measurement you describe, but I do not have the micrometer that is wide enough but that is small enough to fit behind the motor but close to the saddle ... ie the best place... yet.

Dave L.
 
On my PM833T, there certainly is no bow due to the head weight. The vertical column is a substantial piece of cast iron. The issue that I have lies wholly within the ways and gibs.
I decided to "edit" this post.. thanks
 
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I was today years old when I finally realized that all the chatter and vibration I was getting with my insert face mills was because I was not taking a big enough cut, or a high enough table speed for mild hot rolled steel.
 
Today was my second day single point threading. Yesterday I broke 6 insert points (2 lay down inserts with 3 cutting edges each), but today I got my head out of my ass and threaded about 7” long 1/2 20 threads with a HSS cutting tool I ground myself. Turned out great!
 

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Today was my second day single point threading. Yesterday I broke 6 insert points (2 lay down inserts with 3 cutting edges each), but today I got my head out of my ass and threaded about 7” long 1/2 20 threads with a HSS cutting tool I ground myself. Turned out great!
Sounds like one of the following:
  1. your indexable tool is either not at spindle axis height or loose in the tool post
  2. the insert is not properly installed, well seated, or doesn’t properly fit the toolholder (insert is upside down, wrong size for the toolholder, or the toolholder has a sloppy insert pocket)
  3. the compound/tool is flexing under load
  4. your depth of cut is too great
  5. you are stopping the spindle with the insert still engaged in the cut and not in a thread relief area.
Clearly something is amiss with your technique. If you want some help with this, DM me.
 
Today was my second day single point threading. Yesterday I broke 6 insert points (2 lay down inserts with 3 cutting edges each), but today I got my head out of my ass and threaded about 7” long 1/2 20 threads with a HSS cutting tool I ground myself. Turned out great!
you did that unsupported, without a tail stock? Wow, I'm impressed.
 
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