Another obligatory New PM-833TV and PM-1340GT Ordered!

@Christianstark
When I lock my Z axis gib on my 833TV, There is evidence I have a significant amount of nod in my machine. At one point I took both gib adjusting bolts out to see how far I can work the gib into the slide, and the gib extended out the bottom of the assembly several inches before everything locked up. Several meaning like 3 inches.
Hi Christian

To answer your question. NO! Not suppose to be this loose. NO you should not see much nod of this sort. There are different sources of nod. In my machine I got this sort of nod down to about 0.001" at the tool after a lot of work and study about gibs!!! In fact before I started this study the vertical gib was not really working at all. But I was not educated enough until I studied it to even know!

I have the PM940M-VS-CNC machine. Yes, all of the Chinese machines seem to have one problem or another or more! The geared head on the 940M is quite heavy and it would fall when the power was turned off. i.e. the stepper motor magnet clogging was insufficient to hold it up. In fact if things were not adjusted just right, gib, it would miss steps on the way up. So I worked on my column gib a lot and still have things to do to make it right. But currently it is working.

So there is considerable drag on the gib as the head is moved up and down. Indeed when going up, with no gib clamping screws, the gib would fall out the bottom by about 1.5". This is means that the gib moved down until it was very tight! You are not suppose to do this as it may get too tight to move! Could it crack the saddle???? In my case, with out the gib clamp screws in place the gib would also walk out the top a little when the head moved down! But this is not as dramatic, but is a good way to get an over tight gib looser.

Anyway, Your gib is too thin. Mine was too think by about .005 to .007" If you clamp your head to the column via external means, Big C-clamp or wood clamp, you can then take the screws out and pull out the gib. If stuck just tap it out with a flat pointed punch or something similar. It will come loose and you can just pull it out. Take some measurements. Measure the length and the thickness at both ends. This will give you the taper or slope. Unless you want to do some complicated, time consuming measurements on the saddle, like I did, you will just have to assume that it has the correct taper to fit your Saddle cut. Anyway, via the taper you can compute how far off the thickness of your gib is by measuring how far down you need to move our gib to make it just tight. You do not want it sticking out the big end by more than your screw will reach so you do not want to increases its thickness too much. The little end screw is just there to trap the gib from moving during motion of the head (i.e. the two screws hitting both ends prevent it from moving).

You can ask Matt to get you a replacement (he said he would for me), but you are going to have to provide him with exactly what dimensions you want. This is not so easy to figure out! especially when you find out that the gib tappers in both thickness and in width and not necessarily at the same rate. You want to get the the width right too so that the corners at the screw heads will catch the screw heads for pushing/clamping during/after adjustments. I did figure it out and if you really want to know how I did it let me know. It would take a bit to explain and involved a lot of customized measurements of the machine.. I have yet to ask Matt to have another gib made for me as I still have other problems with the machine.

I decided to have the big end of gib just stick out the end a bit. I then computed how much thicker it needed to be to achieve this. I then put attached a shim to the back side of the gib to make it thicker. It really does not have to be anything special as it does not rub as the head moves. It is against the saddle side. In my case, I went searching for materials of the proper thickness that were sticky tape on one side. If you just put a non-sticky shim you have to make sure that it does not escape by some other means. I found various duct tape (Not the paper and clothe kind, but the stuff that is Aluminum with sticky on one side to wrap your heading ducts with. I happened to have 3 different old roles of this and they were of different thicknesses so I picked the one that was 0.005-0.007". I stuck it to the back side of the gib and trimmed it to fit. It works! But the story is not complete. There is now another problem. The gib is too short!

Just for the record, the gib tappers both in thickness and in width. It is a trapezoid in cross-section so as to fit the hole both at the top and the bottom and have a corner sticking out to catch the screw heads. The width of the gib are the corners that are caught by the screw heads. They taper to fit into the way corners. In my case the 55 degree shape. I think that at the factory they have made up these gibs with extra length. For each machine, because the saddle ways are cut independent of the column ways being cut, they are custom fit. They probably slip the gib into the hole until it is tight and then cut the gibs off to length specifically for your machine. So they cut your gib off incorrectly or the starting material was too thin to begin with. Hence, it falls into the hole between the ways when not clamped at the ends. Since it was clamped before perhaps it means that it was not clamped correctly. (Speculation: If they had the bottom screw in place when they did their cutting measurement, they may have just pushed the little end behind the screw head a the gib was pinch into being tight. It was not actually tight against the ways.)

The small end of my gib did not stick out very far for the screw to it the end of the gib. Hence the gib would slide over and be parallel to he screw head cap. It clamped it but not down the length. It simply wedged the gib against the screw head and the column way in much the manner that the side clamps lock the head in place. Because my small end was now well up into the hole, the thick end was properly located. I had to make a washer to fit on the small gib end screw. This washer fit the screw head hold but had a finger on it to reach into the way to hit the small end of the gib.

Prior to all of this I actually could never adjust my gib correctly before. Now I can do an ok job of this. But once I got it working just sort of got busy with other stuff.

If all of this is not written clearly just let me know and I will try again. I was in a hurry to answer your question.

Dave L.
 
Jeepers Dave. I am going to have to get up early tomorrow morning with a cup of coffee and read through that! I do really appreciate your thoroughness.
I actually have my bottom gib adjustment bolt out and the top all the way in. I did have my gib out at one point and thought it looked really bad. I have a surface grinder; I should just make a new one.

Curious what you bought after you sold your first mill?
 
Jeepers Dave. I am going to have to get up early tomorrow morning with a cup of coffee and read through that! I do really appreciate your thoroughness.
I actually have my bottom gib adjustment bolt out and the top all the way in. I did have my gib out at one point and thought it looked really bad. I have a surface grinder; I should just make a new one.

Curious what you bought after you sold your first mill?
I would worry that the gib may eventually catch when feeding up on the column and break something when it tightens.

edit - When you say bolt out, do you mean backed out as far as you can while still having it engage, or removed?
 
My 940 was out like .010" over a foot w gibs locked. It bothered me so i tightened things up and I can tram the tilt to <.001" with gib locks tightened. The nod was the same but now its about <.0015 over about 12". I would definitely want a new gib if my fit was so off i couldn't get much thread purchase with the lock screw.

My table and ways are all super flat and run parallel as far as i can tell. Its just the slop with the heavy head that im not too fond of. Im curious how people run them cnc. Seems like you'd have to really ride the gib locks for a accurate 3 axis system. Id be worried about wear on the column ways. I guess i might have take up the challenge some day. For now im enjoying running manual.
 
@7milesup

"Surface Grinder. I wish." Maybe we can work something out where you make me a new gib to my specs. I have been thinking about making one without a surface grinder. Yes, the gib that I got looks awful. It is warped and it is bowed/cupped across the width. It is amazing what you can get a way with so maybe I could make mine. I wish I had a different mill! No, I keep finding things wrong with this one. In fact, the latest was that I found the ways on the y-axis to be non-parallel so do not work all that great either. Meanwhile, it makes things and I get by. A new mill represents a lot of work. It was hard enough getting the 940M into my basement. I had to take the table off just to get it through the door. So new mill would mean getting this one out first and then what. I do like having the CNC ability, but I must have only one of a few handful that PM ever sold.

If you are not worried about wear on your ways, I have been thinking about making a gib that just has ends to fit. Just make the center of the gib thinner so that it only role is to keep two ends of the gib connected. (think the shape of a dumb bell). We are so focused on the traditional gib shape that we loose concept of what is is doing. Two not perfect straight lines can only make contact at two points. If your contact is at the center then it will always teeter-totter. Put the two contacts at the ends to avoid this. I know this is not the idea of scraping, but the roughness of the scraping is a way to allow the gib surface contact points to wear off to allow a best fit. But the gib has to be pretty close to perfect before you start making it rough. Maybe even sand blasting it would work like scraping. Make the gib disposable. Make it out of brass like my old South Bend Lathes gib. It would wear down rather than the column ways. It will of course wear off first where most of the force is applied and generates the greatest friction. For our mills with a heavy head that will probably be at the bottom of the gib. .... Just some thoughts.

@Christianstark
Yes, I took both bolts out all the way to get the gib out and to do measurements. You cannot run the lathe without holding the gib in place by some method. For measurements, I clamped the whole head to the column with big clamps first so it would not fall or come away from the column. I used a big big C-clamp that I have, but I could have used a bar clamp. Broke some of the Bondo and so paint off, but this is the least of the Mill's problems. In doing measurements of the actual "gib hole" between the column way and the saddle way, I clamped the head to the column in both directions. It was clamped to pull the head in tight against the NON-gib side column way and then clamped tight so that saddle would sit flat against the column flat surfaces all the way up the saddle. (This is probably the only time my head has actually been in the proper position entirely!!!) If the head is pulled back tight against the flat parts of the ways then it will not rock/torque about the x-axis as one change the direction of travel. This is the function of a well fit good gib and ways.

For this "gib hole" measurement, I managed to measure the diagonal of the gib hole between the between the column 55 degree corner and the saddle 55 degree corner as a function of the depth of the hole. That is all the way up the hole. There is a small error that can be computed that has to do with the fact that the corner of the 55 degree cut is not completely cleared out. However, it seems to be pretty consistent along the way so is mostly just a constant to be added to the diagonal measurement. Anyway, with this measurement, and knowing the 55 dgree angles you can calculate the desired thickness and width of the gib as a function of position along the length of the gib. You can also measure this dimension on the gib itself once it is out, but who says it was made right! Of course in my measurements and calculations a leap of faith is made that the ways in the column and Saddle are made right. However, the measurements as function of length pretty much confirm this as they have to be monotonic and hopefully linear. I plotted these. I suppose I could share some these measurements some time. It has been a while so I would need to review the data again. It was all put in to spread sheets and plotted over and over.

If the gib is not good enough as to pull the head in all the way, then the head pivots about a point of contact at the bottom corner of contact between the head saddle way flat and the column way flat. This leaves a small gap at the top between the head saddle and the way flats. You maybe able to insert a feeler gage into this gap. If you have 0.010" of Nod observing this gap should be easy! This rocks and so is a form of a Nod. There should be no rocking/nod about the x-axis if the gib fits perfectly and is tight both at the bottom and top. Folks commonly measure this nod at the ways, but if you think about it you can simply measure it at the end of the tool chuck. The head is just a solid body rotating around the x-axis. So just put a dial gage in the tool chuck and then rock the head (torque it around the x-axis). You will also see this if you use this approach and lift up on the tool chuck area.

In my CNC this nod also seems to interact with the backlash measurement, but in concept should not. My z-axis back lash had a very strange behavior. Normally, in a backlash measurement the the measurement gauge just simply does not start moving for a while even though the handle is being cranked. But on my z-axis the head actually went backwards before it started forward! So the procedure was: move the head down to position 0. Start to crank upward and observe the dial gauge. You would expect that as you crank you might see 0.000, 0.000 , 0.000 , .001, .002, .003 etc. However, what I observed was something like 0.000, 0.000, -.0005, -.001, -.001, -.0005, 0.000, 0.001, 0.002, etc. After I "fix" my gib a bit I found a more normal backlash pattern.

Dave L.
 
I was thinking about all of these gib issues and wondered if anyone has considered fabricating up a mounting system for linear guide rails
 
Only briefly! I am sure that doing so would have its own set of problems and would take me a lot of time. Fixing this mill properly will also take a lot of time. I thought about trying to replace it, but it seems that all the mills I could get in my basement are being made in China and would have the same QC problems. Maybe buying an old US made mill (Bridgeport) would be the best option... if I had room for one and I was willing to give up the CNC. For me the biggest task hanging over my mill is not the vertical issues.... which are substantial. But the quality of the ways in general. I am pretty sure the ways on the column do not stay at a constant spacing from top to bottom, but there is a reasonable portion of the travel where I can adjust the gib to and still work. The X-axis works, over the entire range provided, but you have to put up with about 0.005" back lash. Someday maybe will be able to reduce this. The Y axis on the other hand has ways which are not parallel. The spacing between the ways deviates by at least 0.014" meaning that I cannot run the gib properly over the entire range. I still have about 5-6" where it works and if I need to go farther I have to open the gib up. I measure these backlash properties by adjusting the gib tightness. I suspect that if I wanted to scrape off 0.014" over about 5 inches I could fix this. I am not for sure I know how to do this in the years that I have left.

You ask,
Curious what you bought after you sold your first mill?
.... I wish I knew what CNC to purchase .... that would not have as many problems. it seems to be the luck of the draw. Others have found their machines (same model without the CNC) work a lot better than mine. I noticed that South Bend sells a CNC mill but I think they just buy it from China anymore! I am open to suggestions.

Dave L.
 
Just a thought, since with CNC, what about "linear rails", this would prob solve the issue of not being parallel

Oh and another thought, with how some used "brace" the X2 mill's Z axis with bars affixed to the column and the table to help keep it from flexing, the same thought goes through my head with these big bench mills, where the head is so heavy that it causes bow in the column..
 
same thought goes through my head with these big bench mills, where the head is so heavy that it causes bow in the column..
On my PM833T, there certainly is no bow due to the head weight. The vertical column is a substantial piece of cast iron. The issue that I have lies wholly within the ways and gibs.
 
the same thought goes through my head with these big bench mills, where the head is so heavy that it causes bow in the column..
I know James who has a You Tube channel had issues with his column mill flexing and being rather springy from the weight of the head. He describes it in this video.
 
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