[CNC] Anilam 3200mk Help

95ttoplt1 said:
Did anyone see how to use a pot for speed control? I didn't but more than likely it is called something I'm not familiar with.
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It is shown on page 52 and/or 53 in the manual you linked to in post #76.
It's connected to terminal H, O & L on the lower left side of the VFD in those schematics. You'll have to read the manual to find what value of pot they want.
 
Jim_Hbar said:
It is shown on page 52 and/or 53 in the manual you linked to in post #76.
It's connected to terminal H, O & L on the lower left side of the VFD in those schematics. You'll have to read the manual to find what value of pot they want.
Click to expand...
Awesome thanks!

Uploading picture of the power supply now. It does have 120v going in. I've found a couple little screen prints but nothing definitive to me. I'm sure you guys will know right off.
 
There is two boards mounted onto the power supply bracket in the lower left corner of the CNC box.

This is the first board I pulled off to examine.
20160222_184202.jpg

I have 120v in here. That is all that I could figure out to check. This is the top left of the above picture. One of two plugs on this board.

20160222_182526.jpg

This is plug number two on board number one. You can see some labels on the bottom. I think they are referring to voltages out per pin groups. You can kind of see the groups in the printed circuits under the board. Is there some kind of key to this?

20160222_182548.jpg
20160222_182555.jpg

Here is the back of the board with the part number

20160222_185024.jpg

And here is the complete back or board number one. Power in plug is top left.
20160222_190329.jpg

20160222_192606.jpg

http://www.protekpowerna.com/datasheet/1-9 PU110.pdf

Do the output numbers here coreclate to v1, v2 etc? edit, nevermind the last page has a pin out!
 
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If you are comfortable doing so, powering it up on the bench and probing the pins with a multimeter might help narrow things down a bit. If everything isn't dead, then just knowing what is working might help narrow down the voltages by process of elimination. I assume that this was the board that powered up the computer, and you have had the computer running on another power supply, so you know where the wires go on that end. If it is a computer supply, then I would expect to find +5V, -5V, +12V, and -12V, all measured to common.

It looks like: the first 3 pins on the right (V1) might be +5V, the next four are Common, the next two (V2) might be +12V, and I have no idea what the next one is (PG), and the last two should be -5V (VS), and -12V(V4). DISCLAIMER: This is only my best guess.
 
That's exactly my plan for tommorow jim!
Those two links have pin outs for each board. That should make it pretty simple.
 
Little progress today. Looks like I have some power supply issues. I think all can be rectified by just swapping in the ATX.

Heres my findings

PU-110-32a

All readings are with no load

pins 1,2,3 to 4,5,6,7= +5.76V spec +5v
pins 8,9 to 4,5,6,7= +13.8V spec +15v(I did adjust this as high as possible, low range was 9.8, best I could get was 13.8)
pin 11 to 4,5,6,7= -13.8V spec -15V

PU-30-32SL

1,2 to 3,4= 5.13v
5 to 3,4= -14.05V spec is -12V
6 to 3,4= +15.05V spec is +15V

I'm not sure what pins are used off these, but both are pretty far off and wont adjust into spec. Each board only has one pot for adjustment, like only one channel can be adjusted. Maybe this one pot effects all channels?

So the first thing I see looking at swapping in the ATX is that is does not offer a 15V channel. Open to suggestions on how to solve that for close to free. I looked up these two boards and both seem obsolete and around $500 bucks at that.
 
I would swap in the ATX, and just try to run with the +/- 15V supply. The drives don't need a +/- 15V signal, the signal to the drives is +/- 10V. If the voltages are reasonably stable under load, I think it should work.
 
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