An abrasive saw on aluminum

[savarin]

I think the abrasive saw WILL load up and possibly could ignite.
You could do a quick test with a thin blade in an angle grinder and see how fast it loads up and stops cutting, but?????

 

[FOMOGO]

Chop saws designed for cutting metal run around half the speed of an abrasive saw 1750 vs 3400rpm. The higher speed will work, just not ideal. Mike

 

[Eddyde]

I have done a lot of cutting both aluminum and steel with carbide tooth, non abrasive, blades on a variety off saws.
An abrasive chop saw fitted with a carbide blade will work for aluminum but not for steel. The RPM on these saws are too high for steel they. will quickly burn out the blade. Also this style saw is usually not designed fo accuracy and adjustability.
A miter saw designed for wood can be used for aluminum but is dangerous as there is usually no, or insufficient, clamping mechanism on these saws to adequately hold the work. Hand holding aluminum on a wood miter saw is very dangerous, I had done it many times and thought it reasonably safe until I had a kickback...
If you want to cut metal in this fashion get a proper "cold cutting" saw, designed for cutting metal with carbide blades.
IMHO, These saws are worth the investment, enabling you to cut steel and aluminum fast and relatively safe.
Here are a couple of pictures from a recent project, cutting 2.5" 1215 steel bar:
I used wax stick lube, and "peck-cut" by backing the blade off every few seconds to allow it to cool.

Safety tip: Always let the blade come to a complete stop before lifting it, otherwise the cutoff piece can possibly catch a tooth of the still rotating blade and get thrown with tremendous force!


The most variation in thickness was only .0035"

 

[Brento]

I believe this miter saw is set up for metal. It already has a hold down to clamp the material. I was thinking to use the abrasive wheel to cut my steel and the new blade i am trying to get for cutting the aluminum.

 

[Larry$]

You don't need carbide to cut metal, including steel. Many cold saws come with steel blades. They are not cheap blades! One of the advantages of the steel metal cutting blades is their much thinner kerf. The blade on a cold saw rotates away from the fence! That way any small cutoff piece simply drops away and does not get bound up in the fence slot. The rotational speed of a cold saw is quite slow, very high torque that requires strong clamping. When cutting rods a matching curved insert is used in the vice to prevent the work from spinning.

I have an old Italian made cold saw that cuts very nicely, steel blade, smooth cuts in all the materials I've cut, including steel up to 4130. Much faster than my metal cutting bandsaw. Saw is equipped with flood coolant which will help the durability of the blade but not absolutely required to be used.

 

[Brento]

This is the saw i have and the blade that is on it. The first set of things cut ok but once i got to the 1/2" material. I am having a hard time cutting the steel. It looks almost like it is work hardening as i am cutting. Is there a different blade i can maybe use? I still have 3/4 hex material to cut and i do have a 5/16 416SS pces to cut?

 

[Eddyde]

When cutting with an abrasive disc its best not to bear down on the machine, let it do the cutting. If you push too hard you can clog up the abrasive with molten metal. Then you'll need a diamond dresser to clean it up or toss it and start with a new disc. I also have had some limited success cleaning clogged discs by trying to cut through a piece of masonry material.

 

[Brento]

I was worried if i cut slow as well it would cause issues

 

[Brento]

Could you use a dressing stone instead of a diamond?

 

[Eddyde]

Yes you can try that. Be careful, a full face shield is highly recommended!