2021 POTD Thread Archive

Found it Here on Amazon. Says it has a lifetime battery. Then in the fine print it says 2 years of battery so I guess it just means the battery last the lifetime of the battery :(.
There appear to be other options though that have replaceable batteries or plug in.

Well, they are cheap enough not to be worried about battery life. And is not a critical component (only used so I know when to change the oil).

The battery can nit be changed. It is sealed in with some potting compound, but as I can feel through the potting the battery is really big.


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Working on my boring bar holders. Getting closer to finishing up. Just need to drill and tap the set screw, and adjustment stud holes.

Also using the toaster oven to heat sink the parts to give them a finish View attachment 262463View attachment 262464


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I like the toaster oven idea. I use a single 750 watt hotplate; put the parts on it and cover with a remnant from an aluminum pie pan. I use a spacer like a bent piece of copper sheet to keep the work-piece off the heating coil. Very crude, but it's easy and it works. With something like a chuck wrench, it takes ~10 minutes to produce a nice, deep blue color. This oxide layer looks nice, but it is not as thick as a professional bluing job. Though the bluing on some AXA QC tool holders I machined about 18 months ago still look nice. Some trial and error involved, but it is not difficult to get a deep blue or purple oxide coat.
 
From moving, and not having shop time, then setting up machines & tools in garage - I've not made anything in quite the while. I did change the fluids in the mill and lathe a few days ago. Made a rather large mess changing out the lathe oil. Hard to get to the plugs, get them out and a funnel under, without a mess. OK, I'm clumsy... Anyhows, got everything working, covers on. Yay! Thought I'd make some brass fittings to replace the drain plugs, make up some piping and ball valves to make the oil change easier. My 2nd time threading, 1st at metric. Also, my first time at internal threading, and is NPT. The fitting on the right, I did use a tap on it. Not perfect, but, it will work. Now, wish I'd thought to do this before I changed out the oil. as I'll have to drain to install upgrade...
 

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The cylinder head from my father's car, spent 2 days at the machine shop, the resurfacing machine had a bearing failure, thankful it didn't damaged the head. Today i finally picked it up 10$ for resurfacing, they did a good job, the diesels have steel pre chambers, so the head is aluminium and steel. I did not waste any time, i clean it in my parts washer then i had to lap the valves, and found out that 2 exhaust valves are totally burned, so i had to take apart another head to find good valves so i can use, because of this i decided to check the valve adjustment, and all the values except one intake wore too tight ( reason for the burn valves), the valves are adjusted by changing shims under the lifters, so i took apart 2 more cylinder heads, removed all the shims i had. Then i did lots of measuring and adjusted all the valves to spec. This process took me almost all day and lapping the valves by hand, my hands are hurting. The deliver men also brought me some more work, he brought me a set of gas shocks for this car, so i'll be changing them as well.
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I like the toaster oven idea. I use a single 750 watt hotplate; put the parts on it and cover with a remnant from an aluminum pie pan. I use a spacer like a bent piece of copper sheet to keep the work-piece off the heating coil. Very crude, but it's easy and it works. With something like a chuck wrench, it takes ~10 minutes to produce a nice, deep blue color. This oxide layer looks nice, but it is not as thick as a professional bluing job. Though the bluing on some AXA QC tool holders I machined about 18 months ago still look nice. Some trial and error involved, but it is not difficult to get a deep blue or purple oxide coat.
I used a BBQ to heat the steel and then dropped it in used motor oil. The BBQ will heat to higher temperature than a toaster oven. Very nice even bluing.

Ariel
 
More cleanup on aisle the garage.

Cleaned and reassembled the quill DRO. It had jammed up due to some burrs along the scale -- my guess was that it was misaligned. I think it's good now, but I'll maybe find a Mitutoyo manual to make sure I remounted it correctly.

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Ultrasoniced and reassembled an eBay sine bar I grabbed. It was showing about a thousandth slant over the 5", and unfortunately the cleaning didn't change that. Best I can tell, the actual bar is not flat. Maybe I'll try to address it when I have some lapping plates, but in the meantime it's only 0.01 degrees. That's still worth the eBay price to me.

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And.. Also cleaned a small chuck that came with a rotary table. Just degunking; not much to say about it.

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It's funny -- I'm probably spending as much, if not more, time in the garage maintaining and tweaking things than I am running the mill. Not what I expected, but who can complain about having a huge list of tasks that you want to do?
 
Envy you on the sin bar and the quill gage. I am thinking of making a sin bar that uses pins on a vice jaw to set angle.
 
Made some progress on my CNC plasma cutter today.
Did the rough assembly of the X and Y carriages.
I may have to make some changes because the mounting flange on the V-rail I have is wider than the spec’ed V-rail from McMaster-Carr so the gear rack is pushed too far inboard to properly align with the pinion on the stepper motor.

Or I might just order the spec’ed V-rail. Insert eyeroll here.
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