-
Welcome back Guest! Did you know you can mentor other members here at H-M? If not, please check out our Relaunch of Hobby Machinist Mentoring Program!
2020 POTD Thread Archive
- Thread starter eugene13
- Start date
- Joined
- Jul 14, 2017
- Messages
- 2,455
Yeah, very crunchy, it took me 4 showers to get oil stink of me but on the way back from work i stopped and pick up a new pressure washer, this one is less of a quality product but it has some more functions, let's hope it last more than its 1 year warranty, just for reference i paid 70$ for it, this is the best quality of the cheapest machines they had.
- Joined
- Mar 17, 2018
- Messages
- 1,400
Fixing the brakes on my boat trailer. I only needed shoes on one side due to overheating from a stuck wheel cylinder. A new set of shoes is almost $90. Here is the old school fix for $30.
Riveted and bonded.
Riveted and bonded.
- Joined
- Jan 2, 2016
- Messages
- 1,953
But did you radius grind them to fit the drums?
Great to see someone do things the old way. I think we may see more in the future, parts for older vehicles are getting harder to find.
Great to see someone do things the old way. I think we may see more in the future, parts for older vehicles are getting harder to find.
- Joined
- Mar 17, 2018
- Messages
- 1,400
No radius grinding, I'll let the drum do it for me. I am very patient when it comes to not spending money.
I actually used to reline truck brake shoes for a very well known and now out of business company in Massachusetts. That was the late 80's.
- Joined
- Sep 29, 2017
- Messages
- 2,295
Absolutely true. Cats are malicious.
- Joined
- Jan 2, 2019
- Messages
- 7,159
One of the first things I broke on my Craftsman 6" lathe was the tumbler knob assembly. It was bent already and when I tried to straighten it the little shaft broke. Then I disassembled it and promptly ejected to an unknown place the brass/bronze piece that holds it in. I was working on this repair when I broke the compound casting, I finally got around to fixing it (using the lathe of course). 
John
John
- Joined
- Dec 6, 2015
- Messages
- 829
In my taper attachment project, I have to machine a cast iron bar that is 18"x3.25"x1.25". My mill table is smaller than that at 16"x3". I needed a way to clamp the part to the table. I bought some 1"x0.75" rectangular bar stock 36" long and sliced off three 8" lengths. The 0.75" height was intended to sit beneath the top surface of some 1-2-3 blocks. I marked up five holes on each bar (three in the middle for my t-slots and one on each outside end for a threaded rod for clamping).
I drilled the holes (#18 for a pilot, "Q" for the outside threaded holes for tapping to 3/8-16, and "W" on the three "inner" holes to clear the 3/8-16 socket head bolts for locking to the t-slots.
With those drilled, I could then tap the outside and countersink the three t-slot holes to allow clearance beneath the 1-2-3 blocks. I used the mill for this. I locked the X and Y tables (leaving only the vertical). I then would install the drill chuck with the "W" drill bit and the bar loose. The drill bit was lowered into the hole, and the bar clamped to the table in place. The drill chuck was then removed and a 5/8" end mill and collet was put in. This would give the clearance for the socket head bolts. I'd mill about 0.160"-0.200" into the bar straight down (plunge cut). This would give me just enough clearance for the socket head bolts to sit below the plane of the 1-2-3 blocks.
With those complete, I could then test them.
I'd call that a success. Make sure if you do this, use matched sets of 1-2-3 blocks because they are all ground together. Otherwise you potentiallly introduce tapers into your parts because they are not all the same.
I drilled the holes (#18 for a pilot, "Q" for the outside threaded holes for tapping to 3/8-16, and "W" on the three "inner" holes to clear the 3/8-16 socket head bolts for locking to the t-slots.
With those drilled, I could then tap the outside and countersink the three t-slot holes to allow clearance beneath the 1-2-3 blocks. I used the mill for this. I locked the X and Y tables (leaving only the vertical). I then would install the drill chuck with the "W" drill bit and the bar loose. The drill bit was lowered into the hole, and the bar clamped to the table in place. The drill chuck was then removed and a 5/8" end mill and collet was put in. This would give the clearance for the socket head bolts. I'd mill about 0.160"-0.200" into the bar straight down (plunge cut). This would give me just enough clearance for the socket head bolts to sit below the plane of the 1-2-3 blocks.
With those complete, I could then test them.
I'd call that a success. Make sure if you do this, use matched sets of 1-2-3 blocks because they are all ground together. Otherwise you potentiallly introduce tapers into your parts because they are not all the same.
- Joined
- Nov 24, 2014
- Messages
- 3,598
Don't you think you'll distort the stock by supporting the workpiece between the clamps, rather than under the clamps?
My recommendation would be to sink the counterbores so the 9 SHCSs are below the surface on the 3 extender bars. Secure the extenders to the table, then take a clean-up cut (just has to be 3.25+wide for your workpiece) to make the 3 bars as coplanar as your machine will generate.
My recommendation would be to sink the counterbores so the 9 SHCSs are below the surface on the 3 extender bars. Secure the extenders to the table, then take a clean-up cut (just has to be 3.25+wide for your workpiece) to make the 3 bars as coplanar as your machine will generate.