2018 POTD Thread Archive

[zmotorsports]

Hey Mike,
Doesn't towing that way wear on the transfer case ? Even with everything in Neutral.

The transfer case does turn as well as the axles but wear is minimal, nothing that I have ever been concerned about.

I've flat towed my first two Jeeps well over 125k miles combined and this one around 25k in the 6 years I have owned it and axle and transfer case issues have been non-existent. I do keep my fluids replaced quite regularly though.

Mike

 

[chips&more]

Today I made a R8 tool holder with Weldon shank hole to go with my set of annular cutters. Used a billet of 1144 and about 2 hours shop time. Nothing really hard to do. I may have taken more time than needed when I set-up the R8 taper. I mounted a factory Bridgeport R8 in my lathe chuck and carefully indicated the compound in and called it good. Before I put the 3/4” hole in it. I took the unfinished tool holder over to the Bridgeport, mounted the holder and took a skim cut off part of the OD. This referenced the holders concentricity. Went back to the lathe indicated the holder to 0.0” from that skim cut I just made and then did the 3/4” hole. Tool holder runout when mounted in the Bridgeport is within 0.0002” now, I’m happy…Dave

 

[dave_r_1]

Hey Mike,
Doesn't towing that way wear on the transfer case ? Even with everything in Neutral.

There is some, just due to the parts turning, but my understanding of the problem with towing vehicles is lubrication.

You shouldn't tow 2wd vehicles with automatic transmissions because a bunch of parts get rotating, but they aren't getting lubricated because the A/T oil pump is normally driven by the A/T input shaft (so everything gets lubed while the engine is running, regardless of whether the vehicle is in motion, so you can shift gears at all times).

The transfer case in my truck ('04 Sierra 3500 with NP261 TC) has an oil pump that is driven from the output shaft, so, when towing the truck with the TC in neutral, the oil pump is busy pumping oil everywhere so it stays properly lubed. Other vehicles like that Jeep likely have a similar setup.

But, there probably are some 4wd systems that don't work like this. It should say in the owners manual if you can tow it with the rear (or front for front-wheel drive) wheels on the ground or not.

 

[Buffalo21]

Today I made a R8 tool holder with Weldon shank hole to go with my set of annular cutters. Used a billet of 1144 and about 2 hours shop time. Nothing really hard to do. I may have taken more time than needed when I set-up the R8 taper. I mounted a factory Bridgeport R8 in my lathe chuck and carefully indicated the compound in and called it good. Before I put the 3/4” hole in it. I took the unfinished tool holder over to the Bridgeport, mounted the holder and took a skim cut off part of the OD. This referenced the holders concentricity. Went back to the lathe indicated the holder to 0.0” from that skim cut I just made and then did the 3/4” hole. Tool holder runout when mounted in the Bridgeport is within 0.0002” now, I’m happy…Dave
View attachment 262329
View attachment 262330

Dave,

I bought 2 of them, one with an R8 shank and one with an MT#3 shank, for the mill and the drill press, so I could use the annular cutters, from my 3 mag drills. The 2 I bought, have a spring, so the alignment pin moves up as you drill, then kicking out the slug. Are you using the alignment pin?? What are you going to do about the slug??

 

[dirty tools]

my Mule (M274A) won't start. SO far I found no ground at the starter and the starter mounting hole are 3/6" and the mounting bolts are 3/16". This could allow the starter to turn and cause lots of problems. To night I will make two bushings so I can press them into the flange. This will also make the ground connection (I hope) pictures to follow.

 

[chips&more]

Dave,

I bought 2 of them, one with an R8 shank and one with an MT#3 shank, for the mill and the drill press, so I could use the annular cutters, from my 3 mag drills. The 2 I bought, have a spring, so the alignment pin moves up as you drill, then kicking out the slug. Are you using the alignment pin?? What are you going to do about the slug??

Hi Jack, the holder has a through hole so the alignment pin can freely move. But I do not intend to use the alignment pin. These cutters are typically used on a mag drill press. You move the dress press around, aligning the pin to say a center punch mark, then turn on the magnet. The alignment pins are a sloppy fit in the cutter, I don’t like it. I will be using the cutters on a milling machine. Aligning will be of other ways, probably.

I’m never doing production work. So there is plenty of room inside the cutter for the blanks to stack up before it gets crowded. So no spring or other means of blank removal other than taking the cutter out and removing the blanks. Something similar to dealing with the blanks when using a hole saw.

I did not want a LONG nosed tool holder like you can buy. I wanted as stubby as possible. It’s more rigid, less table Z cranking, increased Z envelope size, to name a few.

I could very easily add a spring. I will leave that option on the table, but for now, no spring. Thank you for your interest…Dave

 

[zmotorsports]

I only had about an hour to work in the shop last night so I fabbed up the mounting brackets for my power steering oil cooler.

Here’s what I started with, a 3” long piece of 2.250” diameter x .120” wall tubing that I cut in half lengthwise to saddle over the 2” diameter cross member and two pieces of 1/4” flat strap.


Saddles welded to tabs after drilling and tapping the tabs to match the coolers bolt pattern.




Mounted to the oil cooler.


Oil cooler mocked into position.


WOW, that thing is filthy under there and needs to be detailed.


Bead blasted, painted and ready for installation.


Thanks for looking.

Mike

 

[jdedmon91]

Working on my boring bar holders. Getting closer to finishing up. Just need to drill and tap the set screw, and adjustment stud holes.

Also using the toaster oven to heat sink the parts to give them a finish


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[extropic]

Also using the toaster oven to heat sink the parts to give them a finish

I hadn't heard anything previously about that method of metal finishing. A couple of Google searches didn't provide any leads. Can you post a link or describe your heat soak process and the result? TIA

 

[jdedmon91]

Also using the toaster oven to heat sink the parts to give them a finish

I hadn't heard anything previously about that method of metal finishing. A couple of Google searches didn't provide any leads. Can you post a link or describe your heat soak process and the result? TIA

I seen bits and pieces about it on YouTube. What I did is simple, put the metal in the toaster oven to heat it up as hot as it gets witch is 450 degrees. Let the material get hot and will change color a bit. I left the first blocks in about an hour and half. Then I dropped them in oil to let them cool. In fact it was some old tractor trans. / hyd oil. The parts have a gold burnished color.

Hopefully that answers your question


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