2018 POTD Thread Archive

I made a tiny boring bar from some scraps laying around in the shop. The scrap consisted of a 1/4 inch diameter piece of H-13 steel rod, a scrap of
5/8 inch hot roll round bar and a carbide tooth that had a previous life in a circular saw blade. It was a little machining, drilling, and silver
soldering and grinding project. Most of my boring bars are too big for any small boring so this will come in handy when that small diameter
hole needs to be bored. The bar mounts in a C size DTM holder that has a groove in the bottom for holding round materials. This will be handy as
one can adjust the cutting angle to the job at hand. It looks like it will
fit into a 5/16 diameter or so hole. It looks a little long(3 inch overhang) but time will tell I guess. It can always be shortened if needed.

That's what I did.........so far.

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This is to remind everyone that this site nor its staff condones any practice deemed unsafe. The idea of drilling holes in grinding wheels is practiced by some. It is not deemed safe because you are altering the strength of the wheel by making it weaker.

"Bill Gruby --- Global Moderator.
 
My eyes cannot see from your image, I expect that the cutting tip leads the tool into the bore, else the front flank will hit the bottom before the cutting point does. In other words:
Is the front edge tapered back from the point?

Sorry, I was just reading a French translation and my word order became confused.
 
My eyes cannot see from your image, I expect that the cutting tip leads the tool into the bore, else the front flank will hit the bottom before the cutting point does. In other words:
Is the front edge tapered back from the point?

Sorry, I was just reading a French translation and my word order became confused.

Yes, it's relieved and tapered back.
 
Nothing too major but on Saturday morning I thought I would mock up the new towbar to the Jeep before we head off on the next trip. I figured with my luck the wife and I would be hooking up the Jeep to the coach and discover something wasn't right. Sure enough, the new towbar connection points were a whopping .025" wider than my last towbar and wouldn't fit into the mounting tabs, both towbars were made by the same manufacturer, Roadmaster.

Placed it in the milling vise and began to take a little material off.
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Removed from milling vise and deburred.
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I knew this when I purchase the new Roadmaster Night Hawk towbar that it came equipped with a 7-pole plug at the RV side and a 6-pole round at the toad end. I have my Jeep equipped with a 4-pole round electrical connector so I swapped the 6-pole on the toad end with a 4-pole. This towbar has strip LED’s along the arms that illuminate when the running lights are turned on. Seeing as how we travel at night on many occasions I view this as a safety feature.

Connected, electrical complete and all ready for many miles of flat-towing the Jeep behind our coach.
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Thanks for looking.

Mike
 
Hey Mike,
Doesn't towing that way wear on the transfer case ? Even with everything in Neutral.
 
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